Review: Fogo de Chao - Scottsdale

[ejs1492]

(Note to Chowhound Moderators: I am aware that this establishment is part of a small chain, however it is also new to Arizona and I am hoping that this review can remain on the Southwest Board since it is of local relevance.)

I used to like Brazil. They gave us Pele, Carnivale, and the Caipirinha. But after dinner at Fogo de Chao, I’m convinced that their exports should have stopped after the “Brazilian” wax.
A relatively small chain with locations throughout the U.S. and Brazil, Fogo de Chao is a “churrascaria” serving an array of 15 different cuts of meat, all seasoned and roasted on a spit. Served tableside and accompanied by polenta, mashed potatoes (to satiate American palettes, I suppose), pao de queijo (cheese bread) and caramelized bananas (I guess they couldn’t find plantains), Fogo de Chao is to Brazilian food what “The Melting Pot” is to fondue. Take a relatively interesting idea, water it down, standardize it, and then proliferate it with ruthless efficiency. And don’t forget to charge a lot in the process.

And, in this case, “a lot” refers to $42.50 per person for all-you-can-eat salad bar, meat and side dishes. The margins must be staggering, because this operation had the funds to raze the Black Angus steakhouse on Scottsdale Road and build this mecca to meat mediocrity in its place. It’s a huge space, oriented around a large salad bar. I’ve been to Fogo e Brasa, a churrascaria in Chandler, and this is very similar but far less ambitious. The salad bar consisted of many items, but few that excite. How many canned black olives can you really eat? They must love parmesan cheese in Brazil, because the larger-than-an –SUV wheel of cheese that you carve yourself was about as enticing as it got. Lifeless mixed greens: got that. Mozzarella balls: check. Vats of salad dressing under a sneeze-guard: yup. And this is where they get you: fill ‘em up on cheap salad bar filler so they don’t eat their share of meat. Few people, with the exception of the seriously starved, could eat their $42.50 worth of meat.

Which brings me to the main course: meat, and lots of it. Literally within seconds of turning over my green “I’m ready to gorge myself” card, servers in “gaucho” outfits began rushing the table with intimidating spits of meat. Top sirloin, bacon-wrapped chicken, sausage, pork ribs, leg of lamb. I have to admit, some of it was pretty tasty. The leg of lamb, in particular was served rare and had a delicious flavor. The pork sausage had a crispy exterior and juicy meat inside. But everything was sooooooo salty. I could feel myself swelling-up and my blood pressure could have ruptured the sphygmomanometer. By the end of the meal I was a meat-filled walking heart attack. Cardiac surgeons should advertise on the menu. An ambulance should be parked at the valet. It’s like salt, served with a side of meat. A diuretic should be served for dessert.

Oh yes, dessert. After charging you $42.50 for this carnivorous sodium-fest, they have the nerve to charge extra for dessert. Eight bucks each for two scoops of vanilla ice cream and a key lime pie. At this point I didn’t even care if it was good, I just wanted out.

There were a few other oddities. My wife ordered a caipirinha, but the waiter essentially would not let her have one. “You want a caipirisca,” he said. No, a caipirinha, she thought. “What’s the difference?” “Smoother, vodka” said the waiter. She wasn’t getting a caipirinha if she wanted one. It was pink and pretty and quite tasty but it wasn’t what she really ordered. Our server seemed very irritated with us and inconvenienced by having to open a half-bottle of wine for me. On the positive side, drinks were refilled quickly and the meat parade was relentless until you turned over your card which told to stop.

Sadly, Fogo de Chao will thrive. Legions of overeating Arizonans will flock to Fogo de Chao merely because it’s about quantity. Pop a Lipitor and a diuretic, be sure to wash it down with a caipirinha, and everything will be just fine.

Photos of the meal can be found at www.ericeatsout.com

>Fogo de Chao
>6300 N. Scotsdale Rd.
>Scottsdale, AZ 85253
>480-609-8866

[JK Grence the Cosmic Jester]

The staff being unwilling to serve the signature drink of Brazil just about seals the deal for me that I'll go to Fogo e Brasa down in Chandler if I get in the mood for churrascaria. I'd imagine they've had lots of people complain that the cachaça is too harsh for them (damned Scottsdaliens with their timid palates!), so they just try to sway people into getting caipiroskas (the vodka caipirinha) instead. It should not have been pink under any circumstance, as the only ingredients are the spirit, lime juice, and brown sugar.

[CindyJ]

I ordered a Caipirinha at Texas de Brazil at my first (and last) visit to this very similar-sounding churrascaria last week. They called it a "Caipirini." I should have read between the lines and passed on it; the simple syrup made up about 95% of the drink. The only good thing about our visit to this meat-eaters paradise was the $25 (per person) coupons we had with us.

[ejs1492]

Hey JK, I **am** one of those Scottsdaliens (and a North one, at that....gasp), but I don't think my palate is timid at all! Bring on the cachaca!

[AnonymousWaitress]

Again, hopefully the chowhound moderators won't mind this comment...After eating a meal at the location in Chicago I was assuming that this one would be very similar. Although I agree about the unoriginal salad bar, when I went the service was very good and the meat was not oversalted. I received a caipirinha with no problem as well . You'd think the server would realize if your wife knew the name of this relatively unknown drink she would actually want one!

The price point is high and I agree many many overeating Arizonans will eat pounds of meat to get their money's worth. Although my experience was good this location seems like a step down, plus it was more of a novelty experience and the food didn't blow me away at the apparently better location. It was a fun meal to go to but it isn't often I want all you can eat meat anyways! Well at least it's one less restaurant I'm tempted to spend my money at...

[cstr]

I've been to several of them, overall, the meat is very salty to the point where is becomes disgusting. I'd pass and go to a good steak house.

[JaguarMiami]

TO ejs1492: You cannot seem to decide whether you praise Fogo de Chao or trash it. By your comments you seem to have at least visited Brazil, and should therefore know that this style of stake house is typical of Southern Brazil with heavy Uruguayan and Argentinean influence. Their way of doing "churrasco" is not for the faint heart literally. The meat is tenderized with lots of rocky salt, which is not as bad for your health as the fine salt. The excess is shaken off and the meat is put on the fire, usually stakes in ground around a camp fire, there the name ‘Fogo de Chão” (or ground fire). $40+ Dollars may seem a lot for a meal, but other upscale steakhouses such as Manny from Kansas City with a restaurant in downtown Miami as well can be almost twice as much for a lot less meat. I ate there with my wife once and the meal portion of it was over $140 for the two of us. We got a generous cut of meat, but not seconds or thirds. Fogo de Chão is a typical Brazilian steakhouse maybe it is not for everybody, and specially for those who seem familiar with the Brazilian culture and have tried and apparently did not like it or even for those with medical concerns. I really do not think you get any more cholesterol or salt from dining at the this steakhouse than eating at a McDonalds. This is something for a special occasion and not an everyday event. You can ask the waiter to serve your cut of meat the way you want, and they will be more than happy to oblige. Just ask for less salt and a little more well done, and you will get the meat cut you want. I have eaten there several times, at Texas de Brazil and Grimpa’s. They are all upscale steakhouses with excellent service and food. But then again, this is just a matter of taste and culinary knowledge.

[hufferc]

How is "rocky salt" better for your health than "fine salt?"

[pikawicca]

I went to the one in Indy once, and the salad bar there is amazing: lovely smoked salmon, lots of interesting and fresh salads. If I ever return, I'll skip the meat and just get the reasonably-priced salad bar.