HOME > Chowhound > France >
Brewing beer, curing meat, or making cheese?
TELL US

Which arrondissement has best markets?

i
icecreamgal Jan 3, 2009 03:58 PM

Hello,

I will be traveling to Paris with my 87 year-old grandmother later this winter for about a week. She wants to explore museums, and I am looking forward to touring all the fabulous chocolate makers and markets. I want to be able to walk to markets to buy food to prepare meals at our rental since I think I will be spending all my money on sweets. Which markets are not to be missed for fresh produce, cheese, bread, and other makings for simple, wonderful meals?

Thanks so much!

  1. monchique Jan 11, 2009 10:46 AM

    I would not dream of using the metro with a Grand-mother aged 87 (or anybody else that age!)... The bus might be easier, if she is very fit, because you still have to climb, and cannot always sit. Think taxis to visit the museums, and go to th emarkets; it will also give you a better view of Paris itself. There fore I maintain my recommendation for a quiter neighbourhood like Passy.

    1. a
      abovskyg Jan 10, 2009 04:05 AM

      Raspail market (6th) on Sundays (organic) is great; there is also a market there on Tuesdays and Fridays. I would also recommend the Saxe-Breteuil market (7th) (thursday & saturday). We just spent three weeks in Paris, and went to a number of markets, but I think those two were the best. The Saxe-Breteuil market has the added advantage of having an amazing view of the Eiffel tower behind it. If you are the Raspail market not on a Sunday, make sure to visit Poilane Bread at 8, Rue de Cherche Midi and Fromagerie Barthélemy at 51, rue de Grenelle.

      1 Reply
      1. re: abovskyg
        t
        torontogourmet Jan 10, 2009 10:12 AM

        Check out this link for the schedule of all the markets (in french)
        http://www.paris.fr/portail/marches_p...

        I recommend rue Moufftard or rue Daguerre around Denfert-Rochereau - for "food streets" that will not limit you like markets would . Denfert Rocherau has many wonderful things like an organic(bio) bakery and a Monoprix for all your grocery and drugstore basics. Also very easy to get around from there.

      2. PBSF Jan 9, 2009 11:56 PM

        As you can tell from all the posts, just about every neighborhood in Paris has decent markets. If you are traveling with your 87 year-old grandmother, I would consider what neighborhood is the most convenient for her in terms of getting out, strolling, taking the metro, buses, museums, etc. I would definitely consider an apartment in the center of Paris, perhaps the Marais with the Richard Lenoir market and the shopping area around r. Rambuteau; the 5th with the Maubert and Mouffertard markets, or the 7th around r. Cler/r. St. Dominque. All the main sights are just a short metro or bus ride or she can stroll these central historical neighborhoods. Even though the outer arrondissements may have great markets, I don't think it makes up for the fact that it is a little out of the center of Paris. This is in despite the fact that Paris has a great public transportation system. It is not always easy to walk the stairs and long corridors of the Paris Metro.

        1 Reply
        1. re: PBSF
          PhilD Jan 10, 2009 01:23 AM

          PBSF - good point. I also think it is worth pointing out that Parisian markets are only one of the places to shop, most Parisians shop in a combination of supermarkets, specialist shops and markets.

          Some of the "markets" mentioned like rue Cler are not really markets at all, but are food streets where the shops put tables/produce outside. To get the best out of food shopping you should visit a cross section of places, and you need to take care with markets because they are not always the best quality, some good stalls, some poor ones. You may think the cheese sold in markets looks great (especially compared to the US) but it won't be nearly as good as the cheese from a specialist shop.

          Don't be obsessed with the markets and ignore the fantastic specialist shops like Dupois for cheeses, and grand food halls like Le Grande Epicerie in Bon Marche.

        2. Busk Jan 9, 2009 11:01 PM

          I have lived next to the Richard Lenoir market for years. While it is impressive, the prices are high and the scales of some of the vendors are rigged. I would stick to stuff priced by the piece if you buy there.

          The Marche Aligre has better prices.

          1. ChefJune Jan 5, 2009 08:15 AM

            My heart belongs to the one on the rue Mouffetard in the 5eme, which is everyday, but the one on Blvd Raspail is a better market, even when it isn't organic. (Wed, Fri - Sunday organic)

            1 Reply
            1. re: ChefJune
              i
              icecreamgal Jan 9, 2009 02:33 PM

              Is the 11th arr. also a nice place to stay? I have read in a number of places that that Blvd. Raspail is a truly wonderful market.

            2. g
              gourmet.emma Jan 5, 2009 05:56 AM

              Hi, one of the best is on President Wilson Avenue, just in front of the Palais de Tokyo, in the 16th but i's only on Wednesday or Saurday mornings. Friends of mine went on a market tour with some company named succulent paris, I think (there's a website). they loved it. I wish I could go to Paris !!!

              1. i
                icecreamgal Jan 4, 2009 04:20 PM

                We are trying to decide where to stay--and food/markets is really the determining factor. Since she is older, I would like to stay in a neighborhood where we can walk around and where she can rest while I explore more on my own...

                1 Reply
                1. re: icecreamgal
                  s
                  souvenir Jan 5, 2009 10:14 AM

                  I would second monchique's suggestion of the open air Marché de l'Annonciation, and the covered Marché de Passy, and that little area in general. It's a lovely area for walking. Take a look at the area on a map. The only issue would be the distance to museums. The Marmottan is nearby, but depending on which museums your grandmother wishes to visit, most of the major museums are quite a distance from the La Muette/Passy area.

                  More hectic, but central options, include rue Montorgeuil in the 2nd, rue de Seine/rue de Buci, Marché St Germain in the 6th, rue Cler in the 7th.

                2. ChefJune Jan 4, 2009 08:05 AM

                  where will you be staying? there are markets everywhere in Paris, and although it is easy to travel around to the "spectacular" ones, I suspect you will do much shopping close to where you will be staying.

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: ChefJune
                    s
                    souvenir Jan 4, 2009 04:30 PM

                    I, too, wondered in which arr you will be staying. I've rented apartments in several arr's in part to be able to explore local shopping and get a better sense of the difference in neighborhoods.

                    Particularly in winter, with colder temps and less daylight, I'd be planning on doing most of my food shopping closer to my apartment. It is easy to hop on metros and/or buses to go to a specific shop or market, but it doesn't have the same feel as shopping within just a few blocks and really getting to know an area.

                  2. monchique Jan 4, 2009 02:19 AM

                    I note your grand-mother is 87; Why not look at a quieter / safer environment like the Marché de l'Annonciation and the rue de l'Annonciation in the 16ème arrondissement. (daily). Also very close to the rue de Passy for all other shopping and plenty of nice bistrots around.

                    1. j
                      jock Jan 3, 2009 06:51 PM

                      depending on where you are staying there are also some excellent permanent market streets. among the best are rue cler in the 7th, rue poncelet in the 17th and rue montorgueil in the 2nd.

                      terril's list of marches is great for the moving markets. my favorite from that list is semi-permanent; the marche des enfants rouge in the 3rd. it is a bio market and there is a fun workingman's bistro (l'estaminet) inside the market that has great rustic food and simple but good wine. try it for lunch.

                      1. t
                        TerriL Jan 3, 2009 05:25 PM

                        My favorite is probably the Richard Lenoir Market at Place de la Bastille on Thursday and Sunday mornings (11th arr.). You can take the Bastille or Bréguet Sabin metro there. David Lebovitz did a good blog post a while back with more information: http://www.davidlebovitz.com/archives/2006/02/the_sunday_mark.html

                        Here's a link to a site with a listing of markets by arrondissement:
                        http://www.paris.fr/portail/marches_p...

                        I like the one on Blvd. Raspail as well. I think there's a regular one there on T/Th and an organic market on Sunday. Have fun!

                        1 Reply
                        1. re: TerriL
                          Cookingthebooks Jan 4, 2009 01:46 AM

                          The bd Raspail market is Tuesdays and Fridays, with the organic market on Sundays.

                          Bonnes courses!

                        Show Hidden Posts