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Dec 8, 2008 02:42 PM

Eating like a local in Munich


I'm a regular poster on the UK and Outer Boroughs boards who has just arrived in Munich for the first time ever. I'm looking to have a truly local eating experience. If you guys eat it, tell me about it please. I'm interested in all of the usual German restaurants as well as which Christmas markets are best (I'd especially like something more off the beaten path than Marienplatz.) I will travel ANYWHERE and I will eat absolutely anything. I'm especially interested in ethnic areas and ethnic food; so Turkish, Kurdish, Iraqi, etc are veeeery welcome. I've gotten together a rough list from past CH posts, but I still feel too scattered to get myself together. I had no time to plan my trip because of essays and I've literally arrived without a clue beyond Chowhound and churches.


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  1. Arriving there soon myself and sounds like the more ethnic restaurants can be found around the main train station, which also houses some of the "redlight" type activities as well. Schillerstrasse near the train station has entertainment clubs and probably cheap ethnic eats..

    And it appears everywhere they serve beer they also serve various forms of good German food, so look for the "kellers" with the well known beer brands and walk in. Sounds like more informal dining on the first floors and more formal dining on the second floors.

    Time to also pay a visit to the tourist info spots because they can give you some good general local information and directions. You might want to go to the Hofbrauhaus first and hook up with some other English speakers and suggestions - though they will be fellow tourists, but it is a start.

    Also know there is a winter Tollwood festival going on right now in the OktoberFest grounds and that would be a better place to make local connections and have some fun.

    Post a local weather report, okay? Rain, snow, cold, how cold, how damp. And please share what you have learned to add to the great info this groups (thanks esp Marc) have already provided.

    1 Reply
    1. re: glbtrtr

      As I'm staying right next to the Hauptbanhof, I'm now determined to give the area a real walk around. I've only had one real day of walking (today) and I managed to cover everything until I was on Ludwigstrasse well past the Residenz. I zig zagged just about every single block on the way. The smaller market that's only a few blocks off the Marienplatz seems to have a lot of charm. I enjoyed that one. I was also at the Viktualienmarkt today for breakfast and a walk around. The quality of much of the produce and meat is incredible, but the prices can be high. Good juice stands there if you want something lighter (a massive cup of freshly squeezed grapefruit juice for 3 euro.) We'll be eating at Weisse Brauhaus tonight (for a birthday and to celebrate years of love for Schneider Weisse from yours truly.) The Hauptbanhof area will probably be ear marked for tomorrow along with a whole lot more (and maybe I'll finally make it to an actual indoor thing. I've been walking so much that I've forgotten they exist.) I need to get over to Tollwood. Let me Google map that now.

      The weather is marvelous. I've been walking around with a t-shirt and an open blazer all day. It's not damp and it hasn't rained or snowed at all, just a pleasant dry cold. I'm especially warm blooded and New York is A LOT colder this time of year, so I might not be the best judge, but I think it's downright warm until the sun sets.

    2. Go to the Weisses Brauhaus. Eat Doner Kabob and Turkish Pizza. Gobble up a Brezel or Laugenstange.

      1. Medieval X-Mas market at Wittelsbacherplatz with medieval (supposedly) food and products.

        My personal favourite watering area is the triangle between Ostbahnhof, Max-Weber Platz and Rosenheimer Platz. All three U- respectively S-Bahn stations. Just walk the streets. Nice X-Mas market, almost without tourists, at Pariser Platz.
        Highlights restaurantwise: Nomiya, Brasserie Romanow, Preysinggarten, Moccar, Cavaliere, le Faubourg, El Espanol, Vinaiolo, Voila, Pierro e Griego, LaBaja, Zum Kloster and many others.
        Highlights barwise: (some with excellent food respectively Bar-Restaurants): Negroni, Barroom, Maria Passagne, RaketeBar, Juleps, Escobar, Lisboa Bar, Mezzodi, and many others.

        The most popular Jazz club, Unterfahrt, is next to Max Weber Platz.

        I mean, there is little Bavarian food in that area, (except Hofbräukeller) but its where some of the locals go.

        1. For a Christmas market, check out Weißenburger Platz (S-Bahn Rosenheimer Pl.). I'll second the Weisses Bräuhaus recommendation. Also, check out the skating rink that ought to be installed at Stachus by now. I'm blanking on street names for recommended Turkish places, but I've been gone long enough that they may be closed now anyhow. Stay away from the Hbf -- you couldn't pay me to eat in the places ringing it.

          5 Replies
          1. re: tmso

            Weißenburger Platz is correct, Pariser Platz was wrong, there is nothing! Sorry.
            Did not visit Weisses Bräuhaus recently, but there have been several downhill alerts. (unfortunately)

            1. re: Marc


              I just got back from a solidly good meal at the Weisses Brauhaus. I had the suckling pig and a healthy (large) amount of beer. The pork was actually really good! I was impressed. The skin was too crisp to be cut and absolutely had to be picked up by hand to be eaten. The meat underneath was perfectly cooked and the fat between the two was flavorful and melt-in-your-mouth soft. All in all a good dinner.

              I might be going to Rothenburg tomorrow by train without a tour of any sort. Is there any notable food in the town or in the surrounding area?

              1. re: JFores

                Marc: Posts crossing in the night ... I checked with google maps, I couldn't remember if I was thinking of was the Weißenburger or Pariser Platz. I agree 100%, Heidhausen is the most compelling part of Munich. It was my neighborhood by choice, not accident.

                JFores: Regarding Weisses Bräuhaus, I'm glad you had good roast pork. Is it still Wild season there? If so, you really should have some game ... I mean, roast pork is good, but I think it's illegal in Bavaria to serve anything but top-notch Schweinebraten. Just to state the obvious: pork, cabbage and potatoes are amazing when prepared by South Germans. Trout, vennison, spätzel, eggs, Wurst, be sure to try them all. Oh and pastries, goddamn.

                1. re: tmso

                  I'm pretty sure its still game season as the butcher shops in the market are still decently active with it (birds hanging and such.) I'll have to look into it. My German is iffy and I'm too damn proud to ask for the English menu so I'll need to look up all the name for various game right now ;)

              2. re: Marc

                Damn, that's disappointing about the Weisses Bräuhaus. I end out in Munich from time to time for work and I always look forward to the combination of business expences and knowing the city ... I was looking forward to using some expence budget there on my next trip. I guess I'll have to watch the reports as they come in ...

            2. Just got back from a pretty disappointing meal at Augistiner brauhaus :(

              I had the venison goulash which was pretty good. Nice tender venison which was clearly stewed for a long time paired with a dumpling. On the other hand. my companion had a TERRIBLE beef dish. The "spit roasted beef" was awful. Flavorless, dried out, and consisting of literally 3 slices. It was actually less than you'd get on most roast beef sandwiches and it cost 10 euro! On the other hand, their dunkelbier was REEEEEALLY good. My favorite so far in Muenchen.

              4 Replies
              1. re: JFores

                Try Franziskaner's in the city center - Perusastr. 5 for better food. The beer is ok, not great.

                Another option is Frankonian food at Vinorant (also in the city center) next to Dallmayr - Alter Hof 3.

                Yet another if you want to be absolutely stuffed with Schnitzel for a super decent price is Steinheil 16 - Steinheilstr. 16 close to Koenigsplatz. It'll be the biggest one you've seen, guaranteed.

                Truth be told, "ethnic" German food that is superb is only found in (less than) a handful of places in Munich. Best I've had so far is in Hundskugel - Hotterstraße 18.

                If you were in the countryside or smaller cities, you'd have much better options.

                1. re: JFores

                  Love getting your up to minute reports. Keep it up. I am taking notes. Leave next Tuesday. And again, how is the weather - reports said it was light snow in the next few days. We were hoping for a "white" Christmas scene. Bamburg and Nurnenburg Christmas markets and creche tours are supposed to be among the best, if you want more day trip ideas. And there is a special "smoked" beer in Bamburg.

                  And again, thanks to the locals here, marc, gironbike and others who are really helping me plan my dining in a few more days. Soooooo looking forward to good pork.

                  1. re: glbtrtr


                    I'm just back in from Salzburg before I go out to hit up the market and some stores. We did the classic Vitualienmarkt breakfast (yum) today along with another massive grapefruit juice. When we arrived in Salzburg there was an incredible (absolutely AWESOME) farmers market and just goods market in general set up around the large church nearest the banhof. We ate really really well off the stalls and the free samples. Not only that, but I'm going home with some really nicely priced honey, pickles (didn't last the train ride back), cheeses (amazing), fresh butter (90% gone as of train ride), incredible rye rolls, etc. We just did our usual walk and snap affair across the whole of Salzburg and we loved it. My best photos of the trip (thus far) are of some surfers in Muenchen and interior church shots (which I sort of specialize in.) Does anyone know of a good camera store in Muenchen that has reasonable prices? I'm on the hunt for a mint condition Voigtlander Vitessa L.

                    So far our best meal would probably have to be the Weisses Brauhaus one (unfortunately, though we reeeally enjoyed it.) Augustiner was flat out awful in retrospect aside from some excellent beer.

                    Out to the market!


                    Thanks a lot especially to Marc, and gironbike as well. Great stuff!

                    1. re: JFores

                      Folks, please do keep it focused on the chow, we have removed an off topic response already, thanks.