577875 Sat Dec 06 10:47:49 -0800 2008 23 14 Washington DC & Baltimore Area 0 4225372 San Francisco long-time CH poster here -- coming to D.C. next Thursday afternoon for a MAJOR art trip; National Gallery first, then the Hirshhorn, then the Corcoran, the Freer and the Phillips. But, in between all that, I have to eat and I have to eat as well as my pocket book will allow. My one blow-out meal is Saturday night at Citronelle. I've eaten Michel Richard's food at a special event he cooked at in Los Angeles and I've been waiting for ages to re-experience the Lobster Begula. I have also had a recommendation for the cafe at the American Indian Museum but I'm not sure where it is located in relation to everywhere else I have planned to go, but the bottom line is I need a dinner for Thursday and Friday night that is both exceptional and affordable for a refined, single woman. Lunch suggestions near any of the galleries I've mentioned above would be great. I'm staying at the Renaissance on 9th Street N.W. and am very happy walking any place within two to three miles (we San Franciscans are used to walking our city). Thanks! Sat Dec 06 10:47:49 -0800 2008 16933 Carrie 218 1 4225454 ex-SF-er here - you won 't have to plan for hills... good location choice, you're staying really close to the busy 7th street corridor with all sorts of food options. and you're not far from the Dupont area. - quick Metro ride anyway. forget about our Chinatown - you'll be sadly disappointed (vast understatement) although I'm quite fond of Full Kee in all its dumpy squalor - looks like it could be on Stockton near Jackson in SF. opinions on Citronelle have been varied of late (many say just have nibbles at the bar), but I've heard little negative about his more casual and affordable Central and can second the positive comments. after the Philips spend some time wandering the area - colossal piles of ornately carved stone, well, palaces really esp. on Mass - imagine Pac Heights mansions on decent sized lots. not a far walk to G'town from there, but plenty of choices around P and Conn and over on 17. your museum list really should include American Art Museum/National Portrait Gallery. I would do the Freer and Hirschorn together - neither is terribly huge and they're close together, either that or couple either with the much larger ones. (Corcoran isn't very large either). NGA is HUGE. Mitsitam in the AIM is just a few blocks East from the Hirschorn. not many other lunch options on that side of the mall to recommend without a walk up the hill past the Capitol and it's probably the only museum cafe worth mentioning other than the setting at the AAM/NPG. Sat Dec 06 11:31:11 -0800 2008 4225372 163722 hill food 2 4225521 Read somewhere Citronelle was closing for a makeover, did that happen yet? Sat Dec 06 12:03:37 -0800 2008 4225454 72002 chowsearch 3 4225571 I got a reservation confirmation and have already chatted with the sommelier to confirm he will be there that night (he and I used to write for the same wine sites/magazines). Sat Dec 06 12:33:31 -0800 2008 4225521 16933 Carrie 218 1 4225847 I'm another former SF resident. Moved to DC many, many years ago. Sounds like a great trip you have planned. I have some dinner recommendations for you. You didn't specify what you mean by 'affordable' and that can vary widely from person to person. I can say that all of my suggestions are more affordable than Citronelle! Near your hotel: Corduroy http://www.corduroydc.com/ The chef, Tom Power, apprenticed with Michel Richard. Proof http://www.proofdc.com/ The restaurant critic for the Washington Post, Tom Sietsema, recently wrote in his chat that this is the restaurant he takes out of town guests to these days. Zola http://www.zoladc.com Very good food in an urban, sophisticated setting. Dupont Circle: Obelisk Does not have a website. It is an exquisite gem of a restaurant, in an intimate, townhouse setting just off Dupont Circle. The cuisine is Northern Italian and the execution, ambiance, and service are first-rate. One of my absolute favorite restaurants in DC. Cleveland Park: Dino http://www.dino-dc.com/ You mentioned that you used to write for wine magazines. If you love wine, this is for you. Incredible wine list and great prices. Sat Dec 06 15:06:53 -0800 2008 4225372 121247 Lauman 2 4226074 Thank you, Lauman! I guess "affordable" would be nice to be in the $50 to range for the meal, tax, tip, and wine. I'm a solo traveler and diner but know that I'm going to splurge (that is Citronelle). With this stupid recession, it would be easier to find the great gems that are downright cheap! Sat Dec 06 16:59:01 -0800 2008 4225847 16933 Carrie 218 3 4226117 I think you might enjoy eating at the bar at Cashion's Eat Place, Creme, or Palena -- none are near the Mall, but you could take a long walk or short metro ride. I think they all meet your price range (but not "downright cheap.") Cashion's would probably be my first choice of these, but that's just me. Places in Penn Quarter would also work for lunch near the National Gallery. For something very different than Citronelle!, perhaps a crabcake or fried fish sandwich at Market Lunch at Eastern Market, not a terrible walk, but a walk (and I guess two metro stops) from Hirshhorn/Freer. Mitsitam at American Indian is really a great idea for lunch over there, too. You might enjoy Teaism, very near the Phillips, which I think is better for tea and cookies/scones than for lunch but some people love it. A popular local lunch place not far from the Phillips is C.F. Folks, which, might only be open weekdays. There are some recent threads on cheap eats, too.... Sounds like a great trip. Has someone already suggested that you also try to get to the Portrait Gallery/American Art Museum? -- not far from the Nat'l Gallery and in a good-restaurant-heavy neighborhood (across the street from Proof). At least walk through its courtyard. Sat Dec 06 17:34:22 -0800 2008 4226074 112104 mselectra 4 4226586 "Has someone already suggested that you also try to get to the Portrait Gallery/American Art Museum?" ahem, first reply... but yes the Kogod atrium is fantastic and the Nam June Paik installation is great. a quick google found these photos: http://fiveprime.org/hivemind/Tags/kogod nice place to stop for a coffee and venture upstairs for the voluminous in and out-sider art (gotta hit the mezzanine up top). do hit the gift shops - the SI has a very smart inventory - books and DVDs at the Hirschorn and if there are toddlers on your list there are great stuffed animals at the Natural History (sadly not edible by definition and it has 2 stores really with slightly different stock). Teaism is nice, but I hesitate to steer Californians towards Asian food in the District proper (with the exception of Rasika - Indian like you may have never had in the States and BTW not far from your stay. the spinach is not to be missed). Sun Dec 07 00:24:22 -0800 2008 4226117 163722 hill food 5 4226972 Thanks, I thought you had, but I was getting lazy and couldn't remember if it was this thread or not. I really agree with your point about Teaism, but at least it's a nice spot for a cup of hot tea on a cold day. Sun Dec 07 08:44:04 -0800 2008 4226586 112104 mselectra 6 4227485 I wasn't really cranky, just kidding around on a cold winter night. Sun Dec 07 13:45:59 -0800 2008 4226972 163722 hill food 7 4227507 Ah but i should have acknowledged I was echoing somebody else's idea. I wish they had better food there, it's a great spot to sit and read (the balcony off the second floor, too.) Sun Dec 07 13:58:17 -0800 2008 4227485 112104 mselectra 1 4227354 Your hotel is near Chinatown. This was a very old and authentic area when I first moved here. It has now completely changed over the last 10 years and is very commercialized, running most family restaurants away due to high rents. But there is no shortage of restaurants in walking distance of your hotel. On the other hand, fewer restaurants near the mall. I have also heard good things about Proof and Zola which are near your hotel. Most of us use the Washingtonian Magazine’s annual list for suggestions: http://www.washingtonian.com/sections/restaurants/index.html Enjoy! Sun Dec 07 12:27:08 -0800 2008 4225372 246470 JenJenL 2 4227366 Matchbox is a couple streets from the portrait gallery- basic, causual menu but delicious food and may be good for a lunch-especially for the AMAZING (in my opinion) mini burgers w/ crispy onions- good pear/gorgonzola/pecan/green salad, too- zatinya is right down the street-good tapas. enjoy the DC art & food- sounds like a terrific trip! both places ideal for single dining-i go to matchbox alone myself. Sun Dec 07 12:35:39 -0800 2008 4227354 204182 chicken kabob 2 4227422 I'd be hard-pressed to go to a Chinatown for two reasons; first, eating Chinese food alone is always hard because it is a cuisine that is best-suited to larger crowds (at least four!) and, living in San Francisco and having lived in Los Angeles, I'm not sure I could get better Chinese than on the West Coast... I'm looking at Proof and Zola, though! Sun Dec 07 13:06:30 -0800 2008 4227354 16933 Carrie 218 3 4227489 good instinct Carrie - the best Asian around here is generally found out in the 'burbs. this is upside-down town after all. Sun Dec 07 13:47:35 -0800 2008 4227422 163722 hill food 4 4227497 just to add, in upside-down town, when somebody recommends a restaurant in DC's Chinatown, it's often not a Chinese restaurant. Sun Dec 07 13:52:44 -0800 2008 4227489 112104 mselectra 4 4243678 "either you have quite hardy stamina/lack of museum fatigue or really comfy shoes. (I know, SF is about the shoes) " Hill, I'm a freak in that regard -- all my vacations are to cities with lots of art and great food. Yep, I am hearty stock and usually do these trips alone as I haven't found anyone willing to keep up the pace that I am. Yesterday, I was at the Hirschorn, Freer, Sackler, and National Gallery east building. Ate lunch at the American Indian Museum cafe; FABULOUS pumpkin and crab apple soup, a corn salad with fennel, and a hunk of flatbread with shredded buffalo. Honestly, I only a few bites of the buffalo as the soup and salad were more than sufficient. As the National gallery closed at 5, I headed back to the portrait gallery and met someone there who recommended Bistro/Brasserie d'Oc? Probably should have declined, but he invited me along and was effusive about it. The only thing going for it for me was that they had lamb's brains with a lemon caper sauce. Not the freshest lamb brains I've ever had. He had a roast chicken with a really interesting sauce of curried sweet potatoes. Very odd. Afterward we walked over to Co.Co and I had the Indian trio. I am envious of you guys having a dessert-only place for late night crowds, but I am definitely not their demographic as the club music and bar scene was a bit young for me. Great dessert, though -- just not an easy place to take someone to talk. Today I'll be seeing the Phillips, the Renwick, the Building Museum and walking down to the Vietnam and Korean memorials. (Yep, lots of walking!) Sat Dec 13 05:30:37 -0800 2008 4227489 16933 Carrie 218 1 4227528 I think you would do well with small plates. Zaytinya and Jaleo both serve small plates (Zaytina's range is broader, covering most of the mediterranean while Jaleo serves tapas). La Tasca is another tapas joint nearby. Cafe du Parc is a moderately price authentic bistro. Sun Dec 07 14:05:57 -0800 2008 4225372 180506 Ericandblueboy 2 4228114 Brilliant! I'm a small-plates-kinda girl (more bang for my buck, usually!) Thanks, Eric&BlueBoy. And, yes, I'll be reporting in during my adventure! Sun Dec 07 18:48:33 -0800 2008 4227528 16933 Carrie 218 1 4228143 OK..if you are going to the Freer..you might want to hit the Museum of African Art which is right in there as well. They have this amazing textile exhibit right now..Oh and then there is the Renwick which is across from the White House. You can't come to town without seeing The Ghost Clock! My friends and I hit Teaism for breakfast before we hit the museums. Love the cilantro scrambled eggs! I usually grab a chocolate salty oat cookie for later. .. Sun Dec 07 19:10:06 -0800 2008 4225372 12633 rHairing 2 4228418 it's hard to imagine that the Renwick was once someone's home. Ghost Clock - is that the Wendell Castle piece? he's such a raging ass. (but nice work) Tasca is good - no complaints - even if it part of a larger group (I prefer Z even it is also a satellite) msselectra: we seem to have similar ideas/tastes - the Kogod is just, well, sexy. and I'm running out of adjectives... Sun Dec 07 22:26:46 -0800 2008 4228143 163722 hill food 1 4241221 Report back from Day 1 (longer reports w/pics to follow): Zola for lunch - Butter lettuce salad with aged gouda, citrus, and roasted almonds with a sherry vinaigrette. The lettuce was very fresh and quite good, however I found the salad overall to be way overdressed with a fairly substantial puddle of dressing left when I was close to finished with the salad. I followed that with the Tuna Mignon which sits atop a sunchoke purée and served with wilted greens and onion rings. The protein was cut into a perfect cylinder and was with crusted salt. The quality of meat was not exceptional; with large rivers of "grizzle" (I know, it is tuna so it isn't grizzle) -- but I had a butter knife and on my first cut, had to literally rip and tear through it. A steak knife would have been a nice thing. The onion rings were limp and greasy and I gave up on the dish half-way through as I found it too salty. Proof for dinner - I ordered the full tasting menu and won't do a play-by-play at this point, but overall I was very impressed. There were some minor mis-steps (like an amuse with a jalapeno pepper), but despite a packed crowd before a game, I had phenomenal service. I'll be writing a full meal report later. Day two is still a bit undecided by I have had hearty recommendations for Tosca for lunch but will probably see where my walking take me. Yesterday I *did* hit the National Gallery West Wing, Portrait Gallery, American Gallery, and Corcoran. Fri Dec 12 05:16:09 -0800 2008 4225372 16933 Carrie 218 2 4243430 <i>"Yesterday I *did* hit the National Gallery West Wing, Portrait Gallery, American Gallery, and Corcoran."</i> either you have quite hardy stamina/lack of museum fatigue or really comfy shoes. (I know, SF is about the shoes) I didn't recommend Zola 'cause when it first opened the bar always smelled a little of the latrine. cool space. Fri Dec 12 21:40:58 -0800 2008 4241221 163722 hill food 1 4243637 Don't know if you are checking in this morning, but Jaleo for Spanish tapas is an excellent choice. Tortilla de patatas will make you wonder how something so simple can be so good. If you want to eat light, this is the place to do so fabulously. Spinach with raisins, patatas bravas, grilled asparagus, apple and manchego salad are all winners. Sat Dec 13 03:51:31 -0800 2008 4225372 10156 Steve