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Dec 4, 2008 07:07 PM

Bali & Lombok recs?

I'm headed to Indonesia and have a long list from guidebooks but no personal recommendations.

I'll be staying in Ubud, Pemuteran, and Sanur and then in Senggigi (and vicinity) in Lombok.

Will definitely hit Ibu Oka's, and I'm taking a cooking class including market tour at Casa Luna. Otherwise it's all up for grabs.

Generally I'm looking for local food and local chefs rather than upscale Continental or Fusion-y food. I am tempted by Mozaic though, or Bumbu for a splurge.

Anything not to miss?

Bonus points if you can recommend a good place to eat while changing planes in Taipei :)


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  1. Hi,

    I assumed Casa Luna in Ubud would be disappointing after all the raves, but au contraire, I had what - at the time anyway - was the best meal of my life. (I liked it better than its sister restaurant Indus although that one has a great view).

    A couple pics from Casa Luna attached plus one of these amazing fish curry in banana leaf I had near a beach. :)

    Have fun!

    1 Reply
    1. re: gourmandadventurer

      Excellent, thanks. I'm so sad I won't be there on a Sunday for the duck dinner.

    2. Naughty Nuri's - across from the Neka Mueseum just outside of Ubud proper. Just a little roadside 'dive', but insanely good food, esp the barbeque - try to get there on a Thurs for tuna (steak, satay, sashimi) just out of the water. We have a hard time eating anywhere else when we're there. For a change, Cafe Wayan on the main drag in Ubud has a huge, very good quality menu, including an excellent bakery, all in a lovely garden setting.

      1 Reply
      1. re: GeorginaBallerina

        Sounds great, thanks Georgina.

        The more I read about Ubud, the less I want to go anywhere else.

      2. There have been threads in the past about this, but I'll put in my recs again:

        Mozaic - never miss it any time I am in Bali. Last time we transited in Bali simply for a meal there, and my next trip will include a 1-nite stay in Ubud just so I can walk to dinner.
        Bumbu - not bad if you are staying in the southern end
        Babi guling next to Ubud Palace - there is a reason why the line is always long

        1. There are very few authentic local restaurants at Ubud or Sanur; they are mostly touristy areas, and even the Balinese food is catered more for visitors. Real authentic Balinese food is found at Den pasar, which is 1 hour drive from Ubud or Sanur.

          A few that I can recommend at Ubud is : Bebek Bengil, Babi Guling, Tepi Sawah. I assume you will pass by Kuta, another touristy area; you can try Warung Made there.

          6 Replies
          1. re: FourSeasons

            Denpasar is only half an hour from Sanur. Where do you recommend eating there?

            Babi Guling is Ibu Oka's, the restaurant mentioned above, next to Ubud Palace.

            I'm not planning on going to Kuta.

            1. re: Windy

              Yes, you are right about Babi Guling.

              If you want to go to Den Pasar, you can try Warung Wardani, a small simple Balinese restaurant that specialize on NASI CAMPUR, a mixture of fish and beef satay, some vegetables, egg, spicy chicken on a plate of rice. Another option is Ayam Betutu, which specialize in ....ayam betutu itself, which is chicken with spices wrapped in banana leaf, again with some vegetables on a plate of rice. I don't have the address with me so you may have to check with the hotel concierge. Just remember this is very simple food eaten daily by Balinese, it is not fancy or upscale stuff, so I am not sure if you want to drive 30 or 60minutes for these food. The taxi fare or gasoline itself maybe more expensive than the food.

              1. re: FourSeasons

                I found the addresses:
                Warung Wardani-Jl Yudistira,
                Ayam Betutu-Jl Buluh Indah.

                1. re: FourSeasons

                  Sounds delicious. Thanks for looking them up. I'm looking forward to trying nasi campur and ayam betutu.

                  I'll report back when I'm home.

                  1. re: Windy

                    Just another note on betutu, there is another dish known as bebek betutu (bebek means duck) so instead of chicken, it is duck that is wrapped in the leaves. My friend has recommended this dish at Cafe Lotus or Murni's Warung, both in Ubud, though I have not been there. But then if you were going to Bebek Bengil that I recommended above, which serves crispy fried duck, perhaps you will consume too much duck if you go for bebek betutu in the same location.

                    1. re: FourSeasons

                      I don't think you can eat too much duck. It's always been one of my favorite foods.

          2. I've been going to Ubud for the last 25 years and always go directly to Murni's Warung - great setting, wonderful food and nice service. It was the first real restaurant in Ubud and is still going strong. Go down to the lowest floor just above the river.

            It is owned by the legendary Murni who is also hitting the San Francisco scene with her Asian collection of antiques - many are for sale in the restaurant shop - and they decorate the place too.

            Bebek Bengil fries the duck whereas it should be slow-cooked for hours like Murni's.

            Some of us have toured the restaurants on a duck tasting and Murni's came out top.

            There's also a great local dish called Tuti's Tutu Ayam - spiced Balinese chicken cooked for over 8 hours. Wonderful and wonderfully presented.

            Nice web site too -

            2 Replies
            1. re: Tenzer

              Excellent, thank you.

              When I first went to Thailand 10+ years ago, I wanted to bring home all the restaurant furnishings.

              1. re: Windy

                It's still a good idea. They look even better at home. Murni's shop is a great place to start - and they can arrange cargo delivery!

                Have fun.