[PHX] Noca - Third Time's a Charm [Long]

[Bill Hunt]

It was back to NOCA this weekend. During Thanksgiving dinner with our friends (the ones who joined us for our second trip there), mention was made that their daughter would be staying in Phoenix for the weekend and a request for us all to go to NOCA was made.

Call was placed, and we had to settle for 6:30PM, as 7:00PM was taken. I’m glad that we actually went early, as our meal lasted just over three hours.

After a few comments, in other threads, I set out to find the “music.” I have to admit that it was there. Has it been added, or did I just not hear it, or overlook it before? I don’t know. Our table was a bit farther down the north wall, so many the exact location is important. The restaurant was full, and the noise level was up a bit, over what I recall. This did not interfere with conversation at our table of five. Three were seated in the banquet benches, along the wall, and my wife and I were in chairs with our backs to the room. I think that one thing that contributed to my perception of the noise is the large mirror on the wall, which is angled slightly down. while this is nice to reveal a view of the room and the open kitchen, it probably reflected some of the sound down toward us. There are several of these mirrors along that same wall. Given absolute control, I’d probably have turned the level of music down by about 3db. This is the same music that I had not heard on two other trips. Maybe someone asked that it be turned up by 3db? Maybe I was just conditioned to hear it this trip.

We arrived just at 6:30PM and the parking lot was about 3/4 full, though there were plenty of spaces near NOCA and the pub a few doors down. Once again, there were plenty of cars parked in the drive, rather than in the parking lot proper. My guess would be that these folk were patrons of the pub and did not want to have too far to stagger to their autos. I can see where those extra twenty steps might be a problem. At least the driveway is fairly wide and we always enter from 32nd.

As per normal, we were greeted by Mr Wexler at the door and welcomed to NOCA. While I held the door for another party, we were immediately seated. Along the way, much of the staff extended a greeting to our party, even folk who appeared to be new to me. That attitude seems to extend to all of the staff and is appreciated. It is so seldom seen any longer, especially in some of the “hot” places, where the host/hostess seems bothered that a patron should interrupt their cell phone call, much less be greeted and seated. [Note to NOCA: please keep this attitude up.]

Well, it seems that poor Robert drew the short straw back in the kitchen, as he was forced to deal with our party, yet again. He managed to hide his displeasure and whispered that I needed to check out the wine list, as there were even more offerings, since our last visit. He also noted that there were some “specials” printed at the bottom of the menu.

When I’m dining at a new restaurant, or one that changes the menu often, I’ll normally check out the menu on-line. As fate would have it, the PDF was down, or being updated. Still, I had some very recent reports from CH, so I had some ideas before arriving.

There was another change in the menus. The clipboards were still in use, but now the wine list is separate. I like this much better, for two reasons. I found the multi-page menu + list a tad unwieldy and I also like to keep a wine list handy, as we’ll often add a wine, or two as orders are decided and placed. This also saves on having to print a full copy of the wine list (especially as it has been changing) for each menu presented – win, win win.

I just glanced at the b-t-g offerings, as we had a party of five. Only note that I made was that the Chateau Haut-Bergeron Sauternes was still being offered, and that the half-bottle selection had expanded. Both good things When it is just my wife and me dining, these are the first areas that I check – b-t-g and halves. I urge others to explore these, rather than try to choose a single full-bottle to compliment a multi-course meal with so many flavors and textures, as you’ll find at NOCA. A couple of half-bottle selections can cover a lot of territory. I applaud any restaurant that offers a good selection.

The menu had changed, since our last visit. Yes, some “standards” like the skirt steak, were still there, but many items were new to me (except for the CH reports). Amidst the conversation, decisions were made. I started us off with the ‘06 le Clos du Caillou Côtes du Rhone blanc. This wine is a fairly traditional blend of Marsanne and Roussanne, two of the allowed white varietals from the Southern Rhône. I just reported on a 100% Marsanne that we had at Le Rêve in San Antonio. More often, a Côtes du Rhone blanc will be a blend. While making this decision, I had paused over the ‘07 Terredora di Paolo Falanghina, but opted for the French white instead. [More on this later.]

The first wine came, just as the amuse bouche arrived. This was an avocado mousse with a sliver of pickled radish and a sprinkling of greens. The amuse was served in a spoon, normally associated with Oriental soups, which rested in a porcelain spoon stand on a small plate – very nice presentation. The pickled radish was a wonderful little burst of flavor on the base of avocado. The Clos du Caillou went well, but I think a lighter white might have done better.

As we sipped and talked, it became evident that we were out of the Côtes du Rhone. I handed the list to the other gentleman. He immediately focused on the Falanghina. He’d hosted an Italian wine event a couple of months back and had used this varietal as his “welcome wine, though by a different producer. Unfortunately we were out of town for that party. I concurred and mentioning that it was calling to me, when I went with the Clos du Caillou. The Falanghina would have been a better “starter wine,” due to its lighter body, but we made do.

Time had come to begin eating in earnest. As we had five diners, I won’t go into a lot of detail on every dish ordered, though we did surreptitiously pass tastes around. My wife and I started with the Roasted Chestnut Soup, with crispy foie gras raviolini and honey glazed pearl onions and the Duck Confit, served on a huckleberry waffle with Bliss vanilla maple syrup, frisee salad walnuts and dates. I had read of both of these earlier. Other orders at the table were the Sweetbread Fricassee with braised greens, Pancetta and sweet & sour demi-glace and a Foie Gras Torchon with quince jam, Marcona almonds on a toasted brioche.

Fortunately, I still had some of the Côtes du Rhone, as it was a bit better with my chestnut soup. Yes, the Falanghina was better to begin, but was not holding up to some of dishes quite as well as the other white. At this point, we ordered a bottle of the ‘06 Seasmoke Southing Santa Rita Hills Pinot Noir. We had to substitute the ‘05, as the ‘06 was gone, but this was whispered to me, so no surprise there. I wanted to try this with the soup, and as we’d done a Pinot Noir tasting at Thanksgiving, it seemed to follow, that we continue this tradition. It was a perfect match for the chestnut soup, which tasted as though it had a little cardamom for seasoning. The soup was very good, but I think that I prefer the Wild Mushroom Soup with crispy Porcini raviolini, melted leeks and baby carrots from the previous visit.

The duck confit was excellent with a large portion of duck and tasty huckleberry “waffles’ on the side. The duck was sublime, but my wife would not share the waffles! I was so glad that we’d gotten the Pinot Noir, especially for the duck. As I was having the seared foie gras (held over on the menu from our earlier visit) and one guest was having the Foie Gras Torchon, I had ordered a couple of glasses of the Chateau Haut-Bergeron Sauternes. Though not my favorite preparation, normally, I have to admit that the torchon was absolutely a knockout. Coupled with the Sauternes, and it was unbeatable. I have never tasted such velvety foie gras.

My next course was the Seared Foie Gras with pickled huckleberries, black pepper Fiji apple reduction on a brioche crouton. The other gentleman had been eyeing the Tagliatelle, with braised short-ribs, pearl onions, braised carrots and a Parmigianno-Reggiano velouté. He asked if the table would like to split an order, but everyone was doing all of the courses, that they thought they could handle. When my seared foie gras arrived, so did a small dish of the Tagliatelle! I was anticipating this “old favorite” so very much. Armed with my Sauternes, I dived in. Again, the velvety consistency with the piquancy of the searing. was wonderful. The pickled huckleberries were sweet, but tart – a wonderful point-counterpoint to the sweetness of the foie gras. This was almost as good as it had been on our previous visit. It was so very similar, but I think that the apples might have “seemed” to be missing in action. They just did not come into play as before. Still, this was a total winner. I just wish that the apples had stood out a tiny bit more. It feels like heresy not giving this dish a pure 100, but it was only a 98 instead – great, but not quite perfect, as before. Maybe it was that taste of the other foie gras that twisted my palate, or maybe the applemonger had not done his/her duty that day. I still am glad to see this dish continue on the menu. Just like the skirt steak, I think that it is a “keeper.”

After the foie gras overload, remember that I also had foie gras raviolini in the soup, I was not sure that I even wanted my main-course. I could have just done more of the duck confit and been happy. Still, I pressed on, just for Chowhound. I had the Day Boat Scallops with sunchoke purée, broccoli rabe, parsnips, Maitake mushrooms and herb sauce, while my wife had the Tagliatelle. The scallop dish came with three giant mollusks, perfectly seared and oh so tender and flavorful. Initially, I was a little dubious of only three scallops, even with all that I had eaten. Well, that thought soon passed, even after sharing sizable portions to all but one around the table. I could barely finish the dish. It is like when my wife watches the temperature numbers on the TV screen, or in her car. “It’s not about the numbers,” I admonish, “It’s about how it feels.” The same goes for this scallop dish. Do not count the number of scallops, just begin eating, and you’ll see that they are more than enough. For those interested, I ate all of my broccoli too. It was perfectly steamed, tender yet crisp all at the same time. I really played with the sunchoke purée, because of a thread on the Wine board. I did not find that much taste to it, but what was there was perfectly fine with the little sips of wine that I had left. The scallops worked best with the Côtes du Rhone blanc, as I would have expected. However, the Falanghina did not do badly. The Pinot was a bit big, but not bad. I’d also think that a nice round French Chardonnay, from a Chablis to a Montrachet would work, as well as a Sancerre, or other Sauvignon Blanc, would work well too. The Tagliatelle was perfect (as was the “sample” that had been provided earlier). The short-ribs were perfect, right up there with Chef Vincent’s version, but not quite as sweet. As with all pasta dishes, that we have tasted at NOCA, this cooked to perfection.

I tasted bits of everyone else’s mains also. The duck breast was excellent, though I’d place it behind the duck confit appetizer by just a hair. Again, the steak frites was outstanding. My memory could be slipping, but I think that the frites were just a bit thicker. I asked my chef/author, who had had this dish, along with me before, but she said that they were the exact same – looked thicker to me, but they were across the table. The Pork Tenderloin, a dish that I had been vacillating over was perfect and tender. Unfortunately, I only got a tiny taste of the pork belly confit and almost lost my hand getting that. The molecule that I secured was a knockout, but I would have liked to have had at least a taste. After sharing my scallops, I do not feel this was genteel behavior from my dining companion, but then she was in a feeding frenzy, so I should have just been patient and prayed for left-overs.

There were a couple of desserts, after the cotton candy (cherry that night), but other than the Gelato Trio (vanilla, chocolate and coffee), I only remember that the other was a chocolate dish with “salted” ice cream. Since I had only ordered decaf, I was not taking notes on these. The tastes that I had were wonderful, though I was full. I had hoped that Rubee (from an earlier NOCA post) had given more details on the chocolate dish, but she was possibly as full as I was.

After just over three hours of wonderful dining, we left with our Chocolate-chip short-bread pieces and moaned all the way home.

I do have to admit that I sneaked a copita of Port (Taylor-Fladgate 20 year Tawny) and a Cuban, when I returned to my patio. While NOCA has a very nice dessert wine list, I cannot imagine trying to leave in a safe and proper fashion, having a glass atop the wonderful wines, that we had already experienced. That is one thing that I have to say for fine restaurants in a resort, providing that one is STAYING at that resort – you get to enjoy the dessert wine list.

Two notable additions to the white wine list are:
‘05 Bachelet-Monnet Les Referts Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru (Chardonnay)
‘07 Bieler Coteux D’Aix-en-Provence Rosé (if you have not had this wine, you really need to try a bottle. You will never be afraid of “pink wine” again. Wonderfully food friendly and too often overlooked for the “usual suspects.” Do yourself a favor.)

As mentioned, the half-bottle selection has been added, and is greatly appreciated. Next time you are there, don’t wear yourself out trying to find the one, quintessential single bottle to go with everything. Try the recommendations from the half-bottle list and mix-n-match. To me, it’s the next best thing to a full sommelier’s pairing and often overlooked by all but the most wine-centric folk (read: “wine geeks,” like me).

For a party of five, with appetizer and additionally soup-courses, plus three bottles of higher-end wines and several glasses of Sauternes came to just over $600 with generous tips on the full fare. While this is not cheap, by any estimation, it IS a great value and the entire meal was greatly appreciated by our table. The pacing was without flaw. The time to dine (3 hours and slight change) reflected the number of courses. The closest that I can come to a deduction was a busser asking if the partially consumed Foie Gras Torchon could be removed. As I had been late in ordering the Sauternes, this diner was going more slowly, until it arrived. After that question (he did not seize the plate, but asked), the dish was left alone, until the arrival of the Sauternes arrived, then finished. BTW, that diner really appreciated the way that the wine complimented the liver, as did I. Nothing was missed and no server hung over the table. Even with a very full house, everything ran like that proverbial "clockwork."

Some say “third time’s the charm.” In our case, we’ve been charmed on all three visits. I was gladdened that our “guests” from visit two suggested that we dine at NOCA again, and also wanted to introduce their daughter to this restaurant. We’ve seen some very nice changes, and in a very short time. All have been for the better. I cannot wait for the next trip. Unfortunately, we’ll be in the air for a bit, so it will probably be after the Holidays.

Let the steakhouses sprout, like mushrooms after a Spring rain. I’d dine at NOCA, even if it was flanked by Mastro’s, Morton’s, Ruth’s, Craftsteak, Bourbonsteak and a dozen others.

Links to previous threads:
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/576000
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/567602
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/573712
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/557505

Hunt

[BillB656]

Thanks again, Bill. I love the detail you provide, particularly about the btg and 1/2 bottle options.

[barry]

Thanks for another great review, Hunt. Noca seems to bring out your creative writing. I have eaten at Noca a few times now, and we have dined as you did (3 hours, wines, etc), and a much quicker, lighter and less expensive version. I don't know that there are many great restaurants in town that enable you to decide what type of experience you want with such high quality all in the same restaurant. I wish there were more "Nocas" in other neighborhoods around town.

Barry

[Bill Hunt]

I agree. So far, all of our dining has been about the same level and pace, even when it was just my wife and me.

I really like what they are doing. In my perfect world, it'd be a tad more formal, but I'd not want that, if it affected any other aspect.

I hope that they continue to impress us, and have no reason to believe that they will not. I realize that they are truly a "work in progress," but I like the changes that I've encountered - some have probably slipped past me. Maybe we do not get out that much, but they impress me as the best "new" restaurant in Phoenix. I tip my hat to the entire staff and wish them the best of luck. Now, if I can only give them a tad more time, between visits, but when good friends, with whom we shared NOCA, wanted to share it with their daughter, and us, who is to complain?

Ya' think that this is a long one, you should see some of my Hawai`i, New Orleans and even my recent San Antonio reviews. My fingers are still bleeding!

Hunt

[jcarnie]

Funny. .. I've not been on Chowhound since your visit number 2 (I believe). But to my pleasant surprise, your post was in the top 5 most recent. We have a birthday dinner planned Thursday for my Mom, and now I am all the more excited. Great review Bill!

[Bill Hunt]

We'ver never done any sort of "event" there, but I have a feeling that if you let them know, you will be surprised, and in a very positive way. They seem to find a way to have great fun, and also make the patron(s) feel almost like family - you know the rich part of the family, that everyone else envies at the reunions, etc. They have always treated us right. I'd almost be afraid to mention if it was our anniversary, or similar, as I'd shudder to think of even more great treatment.

Enjoy, and glad that I got busy soon after the visit - sometimes, I let reviews build up too long.

Hunt

[taboo]

Wow...what a review. I am from NYC and $600 for that much for a party of 5 is what it would cost for a party of 3 here I think. Anyway, I am coming to Phoenix for the first time xmas week. My boyfriend and I are having one night out away from the family for a nice dinner and we were thinking of Mastros seafood since I love fish. Do you think Noca is such a better option than that if I can get in or will I enjoy Mastros. Thank you!

[jcarnie]

I would say, if you love fish, go to Noca. Elliot gets his fish flown in daily and picks it up from the airport each morning. They have a fresh fish crudo that has been outstanding each time I've been there. . .not to mention the cooked fish options.

To report back on my Mom's birthday dinner and feeling like family, my husband ended up with a deadline that caused him to work that night, so it was just Mom, myself and my four (1/2) year old, Sydney. We brought our own booster (just to be prepared) and a book with us (just in case). We ordered the Kona Kampachi, the foie and huckleberry, the bacon and egg (pork belly), and beet salad to start with. We figured we'd share everything and then see where we were on main dishes. Lucky for Mom and I, we started with the kampachi since once Sydney tasted her first bite (with a litlte prodding), she ate the rest of the plate. AND she asked for a second plate of kampachi for her main dish. The kitchen was pretty busy that night, and since we were waiting on the skate, Robert asked (in a note) if he could bring Sydney the cotton candy early. That was a huge highlight of course, and she was invited on her next visit to come back into the kitchen to see how the cotton candy was made. At the end of the night (after multiple hugs all around from Sydney) we asked what her favorite part of the dinner was. We figured the pièce de résistance would be the cotton candy, but hands down, she said the best thing was the kampachi. It's her new favorite restaurant. And Mom loved it too. :)

[AnonymousWaitress]

I love when fine dining still knows how to deal with kids. With a six year old sister and a foodie family it's shocking how unaccommodating some restaurants can be when we go out. I'm looking forward to going back to NOCA to try the full menu as soon as possible, that roasted chestnut soup with the foie gras sounds amazing.

[Bill Hunt]

We have yet to try any of the crudos. Just too many great items, and too few visits. Someday, I hope!

Hunt

[Bill Hunt]

Taboo,

I am not a good source of info here, as I have yet to have more than an "adequate" meal at any Mastros' location. Others here rave about most of them, so I am in the minority.

I would venture that NOCA will be more than adequate though. Wife did have a fish dish, that she thought was a bit overcooked there, but I differef with her observation - second trip, I think.

Even though some dishes have lacked the utlimate luster, none has been less than "very good," in my limitedf observations. I also find that they are doing two things: working hard at the innovation end, while maintaining their expressed level of excellence on the other. This is more difficult, than it might seem, especially in the PHX dining scene. Still, they have never failed to impress me, and my guests. I look forward to visit #4.

If you CAN spring for two nights, I wish to add Binkley's to your itinerary. They can be a bit of a "haul," depending on where you are staying, but worth the drive.

Hope that I am not too late for you, but have been dining on Maui for the last week.

Hunt

[azhotdish]

We had a very good meal at Mastro's two weeks ago, and have never been disappointed in several visits. Our last meal was at the "kitchen table", which is completely enclosed. I believe that is the first time I've had a conversation in that place without yelling across the table. A nice change, to say the least.

I have reservations at NOCA on my birthday and I look forward to our visit.

[Bill Hunt]

I do realize that I am in the minority, with regards to Mastro's here. Yes, I am a critical diner, but still, for others to have many wonderful meals, and for us to have mediocre meals on all visits does seem odd. I can only chalk it up to really bad timing on our part. I never question the reviews of others, but just wonder why we have never had a good meal there.

Now, the venue that you describe does sound inviting. One big problem that we found was the noise level. Still, we love Cowboy Ciao, and it is anything but quiet and intimate. Still, I can partially overlook this aspect, because of the food and the wine.

It is like Eddie V’s, where we have had really poor meals, service and FOH greetings, while others just flat love the place. Maybe the staff sees me coming and decides to abuse one patron (me) that night?

I hope that your visit to NOCA lives up to all of ours. BTW - Happy Birthday!

Hunt

[azhotdish]

We really enjoyed our dinner at NOCA on sunday for Simple Supper.

Dinner started with an amuse bouche of grapefruit (confit?) with pomegranate seeds and sea salt served on a spoon. Very interesting mix of flavor and texture, everyone enjoyed this one. The salad was absolutely perfect dressed. My mom mentioned that the lettuce almost felt "lighter". I agree. The vinaigrette made the salad for sure. My parents ordered the fish of the day (sea bass) and they raved. I do not know the exact ingredients it was served with, but there looked to be some type of grain, baby mushrooms and vegetables. I tasted the fish and it was cooked perfectly. My gf and I had the short ribs with mashed potatoes, onions and carrots. There was supposed to be some type of horseradish cream, but neither of us were able to identify it, so it must have been skipped. Regardless, they were extremely tender and very nice with the onions. A roll was also on the plate and came pre-buttered - wow was it good. I must comment that the portion size was much larger than I expected, and I actually stopped eating to save room for dessert. Before dessert, blue raspberry cotton candy. Weird. Moving on, this would be my first "root beer float" in a martini glass - homemade vanilla ice cream over root beer granita served with warm chocolate chip cookies.

Service was smooth and friendly, things were refilled, removed as expected. we all opted for the $5 simple wine of the day, but I cannot recall what the wines were. Some have mentioned the music, and I did not have a problem with it at all. Very odd mix, but up my alley.

Looking forward to going back for the rest of the menu.

[Bill Hunt]

We have yet to try their Simple Supper. All of our dining has been on Friday, or Saturday. We have greatly enjoyed them all. Not sure if I'd really be happy with the abbreviated menu, but cannot comment, until we do it. The staff feels that it's a great offering, and it seems highly popular with diners.

Thanks for the report,

Hunt

[Annika]

The thing is, Bill, though it's an abbreviated menu, it doesn't feel limited, at all. In fact, it feels like an exciting opportunity to try something they offer, knowing in advance two things: 1. The menu (so you know in advance if you wouldn't want the selections and wouldn't reserve space for that night) and 2. Given their high standards, it's a chance to maybe try something there that you normally may not be offered, assured that it will be prepared and displayed thoughtfully. Sounds like you're open to trying it though, I'm just saying I am generally so happy with what they do there, I didn't find it confining. I went apparently the same night as Azhotdish and it is true--those short ribs were no small offering, but so tender and delicious. Loved the salad and the citrus/seeds/salt--what a flavor and texture combo. That dessert, too, was fun and tasty. The consistency there is really noteworthy. I can't wait 'til my next visit.

[AnonymousWaitress]

I agree completely, although everything was prepared wonderfully and was delicious I think the Sunday I went didn't live up to my expectations simply because I didn't know what they were serving and there was simply no main course options I was drawn to. Luckily now they have the menus online so you can pick the perfect night to go! I'm looking forward to trying the fried chicken night soon!

[Firenza00]

The fried chicken is great. :) Perfectly cooked and incredibly tasty. I wish I could go back this Sunday.

[Bill Hunt]

I will probably wait until I have worked the main menu over a bit more, before we do the Simple Sunday. So far, I have loved the items from the regular menu, and while I do not doubt that they are doing a great job with the Sunday menu, I enjoy the diversity with the regular.

I would be more likely to do a "chef's tasting counter," or similar, but that is just me.

So far, the Simple Sunday reviews have been very good.

Hunt

[taboo]

Thank you so much Bill....I actually leave tomorrow for AZ so it is perfect timing. I think that Sea Saw was also recommended to us as well. I will let you know where we went when I return in a week. :)

[Bill Hunt]

Though it has been too long ago, we have had several great meals at Sea Saw. I hope that they are up to their old reviews. Gotta' stay in town more, and dine there agian!

Enjoy, and thanks for coming to Phoenix,

Hunt

[taboo]

I ended up at Sea Saw last week for dinner....an AMAZING night of great food, people and the overall experience.