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Greater Boston Area

Tips for Dining, Eating, and Food Shopping in Boston (and suburbs)

Olives - a very belated first trip

I had kind of mentally bucketed Olives in the same category as Ming Tsai's Blue Ginger, where I've had nothing but lackluster meals over the years. But you know, if the bill had been about 30% less expensive, this would have been a pretty solid chow experience all around.

A few things to love, lots to like, a little bit of meh, nothing to hate.

Loved:

* Oysters with orange granita - fresh, well-shucked, distinctive, simple, perfect.
* Lobster mac and cheese - creamy, buttery, New Englandy goodness. The small, delicate pasta added a nice extra level of refinement.
* Ginger nutmeg ice cream - I'd gladly buy it by the pint if I could. Thoughtful, understated combination of flavors.

Liked:

* Warm focaccia - liked it even more at Rustic Kitchen when it came at a lower price point. Also, it was just a tiny bit doughy and underdone.
* Hot smoked duck breast - perfectly prepared, although the Americanized ginger orange glaze seemed a little ten-years-ago fusiony. Great pea tendrils to go with. The scallion pancake was tough and boring.
* Vanilla souffle - the vanilla ice cream and cream sauce made the dish a little too sweet overall, but the souffle itself was outstanding.
* Wines by the glass - nice, if rather pricey mix of conventional and a little more adventurous. My $13 Spanish meritage red was a delight. The by-the-bottle wine list looked similarly diverse, perhaps a bit showy on the high end.
* Service - friendly and accommodating. It takes a lot to get me to take note of service in either direction, but this was a real plus.
* Atmosphere - I liked the "flashy casual" bistro thing. Beautiful Boston panorama out the windows as well. Yeah, the whole vibe is a little Hollywood, but it works.

Meh:

* Pumpkin rice pudding - great concept, but bland, way too sweet, and slightly off in texture. I hope to hack this recipe at home; a few nips and tucks and it could be a home run.
* Wood grilled squid and octopus - on the plus side, the squid and octopus were expertly prepared, tender and bereft of any gumminess or toughness; also a beautiful dish to look at. But it was sorely lacking in flavor. I kept thinking about Gran Gusto's take on the same: cheaper, simpler, and much, much more flavorful.

Total bill for two starters, two entrees, two desserts, and three glasses of wine was just south of $200 after tax and tip. We were really glad to have finally made it here, and certainly enjoyed ourselves, but I doubt we'll be heading back anytime soon. I can see how in the 90s, Olives would have been a premiere Boston destination (maybe *the* premiere destination), but at this point, there are too many upstarts around town that take each of its traits to a higher level, and at fairer prices.

    1 Reply so Far

    1. thank you for that well organized and articulate report. ironically, their Grilled octopus and squid (w/ chick peas and tomato, lemon and evoo) used to be an epiphany dish for me there. sorry their current version was so disappointing.

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