572666 Sun Nov 16 09:01:04 -0800 2008 0 42 U.K./Ireland 0 4177660 A second branch, the original in Clerkenwell. An amuse of kudu, a type of antelope, meaty and deep, a thin capaccio like slice, seared rim and ruby centre. Gravlax, firm but tender, comes in two flavours, cured with either dill or coriander. Lovely depth of flavour, and a surprisingly light hand on the salt. The traditional pairing of rye bread, along with microgreens, for a mild vegetal sharpness to contrast the intensity of the fish. Springbok, another type of antelope, has a pleasant gamey undertone, perhaps a touch tamer than venison. Nicely cooked, the meat is firm, and moist, a good textural contrast with the crumbly crust of breadcrumbs, mustard and parsley, soothing flavours against the meat. Root vegetables as sides - discs of parsnip, beet and turnip from a little pedestal for the springbok, lifting it above the meaty reduction (wine & demi-glace?). Well conditioned cheeses, with somewhat ordinary sides (grapes, crackers). A basic dessert, a chewy dense brownie given a fruity alcoholic angle by armagnac soaked prunes. A very drinkable cab-merlot blend from S African, enough of the old world barnyard on the nose amid the fruit, a nice lick of acidity, generally smooth and well-structured, except for a very occasional harshness of the alcohol that sometimes lingers in the finish. Sun Nov 16 09:01:04 -0800 2008 10076 limster