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Tips for Dining, Eating and Food Shopping in California (exc. LA, SF Bay Area, San Diego)

Falafel Heaven and more at Occasion Bakery [Fresno]

Finally managed to make it by today (Friday) which is the only day that the elusive falafel is available. It took only one bite to realize that all of the others I've tried over the years were, at best, second cousins twice removed even if honest attempts, and at worst, pathetic imitations and poseurs.

While waiting to order I spied an interesting looking offering on the top of the glass case and learned that it was a spinach and cheese "beerock". So I'm thinking, WTH, I'll have both for lunch. Still looking around and noticing the lahmajouns, I realize this could get out of control rather quickly. Rose, the lovely proprietor and lead chef, goes and gets a knife and cuts up one of the beerock portions for me and the lady she was waiting on to taste. simply incredible. Now she has me like a large mouth bass that's swallowed the whole lure. Went to plan B, just the falafel for lunch and order a nice variety of the rest to take home for dinner.

The falafel consisted of 5-6 slightly flattened spheres that reminded me of the shape of some small crab cakes I've enjoyed, and like great crab cakes the outside wasn't over fried and the interior was moist with a wonderful mouthfeel. The spicing wasn't overpowering, allowing the tastes of the flat leaf parsley (which I normally don't care for) and the broadleaf lettuce to make appearances. Being a tahini freak I'd requested additional sauce on the side which worked out perfectly right down to the last bite, a cool creamy counterpoint to the chickpea mix which I was able to kick up a notch or two with the three long thin pickled peppers that accompanied. I neglected to ask what they were, but they added just the right amount of heat to the whole experience. At the end I had to pat myself on the back for not overordering, I was one full puppy, err.... bear.

Should mention, I arrived early since sit down is at a premium, i.e. a two top inside, and another plus a four top outside, both of which will become less desirable as the tule fog creeps in, and again next July/Aug during our other extreme. Bottled water and canned sodas are the only drink options. While waiting for my falafel sitting outside at least 4-5 obvious regulars drove up and walked out with loaves of fresh bread. I neglected to ask Rose about them (was afraid I'd chewed her ear off already) but they were sesame seeded and the shape of huaraches, about 12 in wide by 18-24 in long. Embarrased to say living here all my life I'm not familiar with them, just the very familiar pita rounds. An interesting twist, one of them waiting outside for his bread order asked me what I was eating.

Waddling back inside I had Rose pack up two of the squares of beerock, which actually more resembled lasagne, just half as thick, a dozen of the meat lahmajouns, and one of their calzones (another surprise). Their version is baked, resembling the offering at Viktoria's, but I notice that it only seems to be about one half the weight, and only about one third the weight of my gold standard of the long gone old Farmer's Market, Clara and Angelo's, and the current Mama Mia's. I will resist the urge to defrost some Italian gravy to smother it in and report back.

I grudgingly passed on adding a package of the herb and spice lahmajouns and another inside the glass case that I was told had a pepper sauce on them. My (hopeful) inquiry as to if it was spicy got a so-so response, so maybe another day with a big side of the pickled peppers.

Go in and introduce yourself to Rose, she is indeed a local treasure.

Cheers,

Dave

[Edit to add] Prices: Falafel 5.00, Spinach/Cheese Beerock 2.99, Lahmajoun (12) 5.00 Walking out being stuffed for lunch and dinner for two for $15....... Priceless!!!!!!

14 Replies

  1. :))))

    Oh, now you'll have to make a return trip for the tahin ov hatz.

    1. re: tavmark

      I sure will tavmark, is that what they were walking out with? Would I need to call ahead?

      I found your description on this other post:
      http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/486537

      Also from that I gather I had the spinach and cheese buourek?

    2. Is this not next door to Fresno Deli???? Have you tried Bedrosian"s Deli at Asland and 1st? My daughter loves that place and I've only eaten there once and it was good. A lot of home made stuff like Tursu.
      Danny

      1. re: Bakersfield Hound

        It's directly east and slightly behind Fresno Deli (SW Fresno & Gettysburg). Haven't been to Bedrosian's in years, will have to stop by soon. [Edit to add] What is Tursu?

        1. re: PolarBear

          Tuesu is pickled vegetables mostly cabbage and carrots, some celery. Their tabbouleh is pretty good, although not as good as what I make, since we take the time to use mostly the leaves of the parsley and not so much stems, AND I hate mint so I don't add it.
          I guess I never paid attention to the bakery being there since I only get my stiff from Fresno Deli. Ever since the Lahmajoun Kitchen closed on Butler, I haven't found anything as good, however the ones that Fresno Deli sells is pretty good.
          Danny

          1. re: Bakersfield Hound

            Ah, that explains why my search for "tursu" came up blank.

            Just had one of OB's lahmajouns for lunch, as good if not even better that my memories of the originals on Butler & 6th.

            Forgot to mention the special on Saturday's is Foull, fava beans served with olive oil, tomatoes, parsley, lemon, garlic & spices (according to a Mediterranean online catering site).

            1. re: PolarBear

              ah fool (only spelled that way because it is the closest phonetically), eaten as a common every day breakfast meal in Eqypt. I have always joked that in So. Cal. the Hispanics have re-fried beans with breakfast. Here, the Armenians have fool. :)

              And PB better to call and ask when she'll have the tahin ov haz, as I don't think it's there all the time.

              yes the spinach and cheese bourek is a daily thing. (I like the spicy cheese one myself.)

              1. re: tavmark

                Honestly, I didn't realize that OD existed, even having been to Fresno Deli many times over that past decade. When Melanie Wong was in town we made a point of stopping by and I noticed the hand labeled Sat. special in the window for "foul". I asked Melanie if they meant fowl, and received an education of the cuisine to which I was ignorant.

                I'll pass along this catering menu I ran across for any other hounds wishing to advance their knowledge:

                http://www.meditcatering.com/menu.htm

                Didn't realize the spinach and cheese boureg was available in spicy... I'm all over that!!!

                Finally, do I read you correctly that the large sesame topped breads are the tahin ov haz that you have me salivating for? TIA

                1. re: PolarBear

                  No, the sesame breads are usually available all the time (unless they sell out on a particular day). The tahin ov hatz is a cross between a bread and a cookie (made with yeast and a healthy dose of sugar). Translation is "tahini bread." They are these sweet yet bread-y treats that are really addicting. Traditional way is to make a long rope of dough and then spiral it into a cookie.

                  Oh and the bourek comes in cheese, spicy cheese, and spinach and cheese. Don't know that the spicy one contains spinach.

                  1. re: tavmark

                    Oh, I'll bet Rose will make a spicy spinach and cheese, will be asking soon. I'm still curious as to the large huarache shaped bread, how is this use in the cuisine?

      2. I made a return trip to Occasion Bakery today with my parents, and among other things we tried a spicy lahmajoun. The regular lahmajoun was good, but the spicy one was WOW. Not really hot-spicy, just slightly hotter but a lot more complex in spicing than the regular lahmajoun. We also bought a cheese boreg, which she heated along with the lahmajoun for us, and my Dad got a big square of bread pudding that was very good. I took a bag of the zatar-covered lahmajoun and a loaf of the sesame bread home with me, and my Dad got a big pan of baklava to take back to the family. It was excellent: very fresh (not soggy) and not cloyingly sweet. The woman (presumably Rose) couldn't have been nicer, more friendly and more helpful.

        We then went over to Fresno Deli, where after stocking up on a few goodies I struck up a conversation with the also very friendly (both women called me "sweetie" by the time I was ready to leave) clerk. She noticed the zatar lahmajouns I'd bought, said that she liked the ones from Occasion better than the ones they carry in the deli, that they were thinner and used better quality oil, and then gave me serving suggestions (warm slightly,cover with sliced tomato and cucumber and roll up), and then sold me some zatar (dry herb and spice mix that is reconstituted into a paste with olive oil).

        As my sister's husband's sister's husband said, the Bay Area is great for food, but you can eat really well in the Valley.

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        Occasion Bakery
        4573 N Fresno St, Fresno, CA

        Fresno Deli
        2450 E Gettysburg Ave, Fresno, CA 93726

        1. re: Ruth Lafler

          Thanks for the report and bumping this thread up, Ruth, and a nice reminder that I need to make another visit to see Rose very soon.

          Cheers,

          Dave

          PS Was downtown last week and had a gyro for lunch at the Mediterranean Grill, with a side of their famous garlic sauce. Still fabulous but will have to revisit their falafel as well.

          Mediterranean Grill & Cafe
          (559) 441-7050

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          Mediterranean Grill
          1031 U St, Fresno, CA 93721

          1. re: PolarBear

            Ok , i finally stopped by the Occasion Bakery! It was tuesday and nothing special on the daily Special List so I tried a meat and cheese Calzone boureg . It was very good but i saw the Friday special was falafel!! Well stupid me forgot about it on Friday and am now waiting for next Friday! what else should i try?

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            Occasion Bakery
            4573 N Fresno St, Fresno, CA

            1. re: Jeff Avis

              Sorry, other than what's listed above, I still haven't made it back, Looking forward to a spicy cheese and spinach boureg (if possible), the spicy lamajouns, and of course the falafel. Oh yeah, gotta try that bread.

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