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Munich downhill alert - - and a new fav

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Joan Kureczka Nov 5, 2008 05:14 AM

We get to Munich most years at this time on business, and have always considered the Weisses-Brauhaus our "local". Not only has the beer been our favorite weissebier of all but the food has been a notch above the other beerhalls in town.

Well, the beer is as good as ever (and so is the weisse-wurst). Unfortunately the quality of the food has plumeted in not only our brief experience but in the comments of locals we talked to. While shortening the menu was probably a good thing, somehow the quality of what was being produced is just not the same. Overly salty, lame gravies, watery salad, and a disappointing lack of venison on the specials menu-- which was always the highlight at this time of year.

We decided to try Der Pschorr, a newish place near the far end of the Victualienmarkt from the Marienplatz and were very pleased. Nice atmosphere -- an updated, modern take on the big Munich beer hall, with tables on 2 floors and at different levels. Sort of like a Gastrobierhalle, to make the London analogy to gastropubs. The food was quite good and slightly creative. The first night I had delicious rare venison medaillions with fresh porcini ragout, and a hazelnut potato souffle while my husband had venison meatballs (more like 3 mini-burgers) with a cabbage strudel and potato croquettes. On another night, I went with a lighter meal of an arrangement of smoked duck, chicken and goose with a very refreshing apple-celery root salad. Cold plates were a specialty, with a whole stand arranged in a corner of the hall. We watched all sorts of ham, sausage and cheese trays being assembled, some of which were very creative and all of which looked good. The Hacker-Pschorr Helles was very good too -- not at the level of our favorite Andechs, but quite nice.

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    glbtrtr RE: Joan Kureczka Nov 5, 2008 07:54 AM

    Heading this way in a few weeks, and also to the Nurenburg and Bamberg Christmas markets. How much were your meals at Der Pschorr. Thanks for your detailed post and recommendations. Any other dining tips for Munich and if you can remember prices, greatly appreciated. We will be staying near the main train station and using public transportation.

    4 Replies
    1. re: glbtrtr
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      Joan Kureczka RE: glbtrtr Nov 5, 2008 11:07 AM

      Der Pschorr is pretty reasonably priced -- here's a link to the site: http://www.derpschorr.de/Wirtshaus.3.... The schmankerl menu is the cold stuff and smaller plates, including wurst with choice of sides. We had no problem finding seats without a reservation -- the place is quite large and far enough away from the Marienplatz that it seemed more locals than tourists (and it's not in any of the guide books yet to my knowledge, so that helps too).

      We also quite like Andechs am der Dom, which tends to be very popular and crowded with locals and tourists alike and has a great heated patio as a gathering place. Wonderful beer and the food is quite decent as well. Had an excellent venision goulash with good spaetzle our last night in town. You can eat on the patio (if you can find a spot!) or inside. It's a much smaller restaurant, so difficult to get into without reservations except perhaps on Sunday evening when there were plenty of places downstairs. Prices are similar to Der Pschorr. It's right behind the famous domed church, about a block from the Rathaus.

      You will find a number of other recommendations here on the board. Most of the beer halls, including the beautiful Ratskeller, are pretty moderate in price with some being priced a bit more or less than others.

      1. re: Joan Kureczka
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        glbtrtr RE: Joan Kureczka Nov 5, 2008 03:02 PM

        Thanks for the good recommendations. Can you flesh out "pretty reasonably priced" and moderate price" in either euros, US dollars or someother currency? It is all so relative when it comes to our degrees of affordability. I want to budget our trip around some memorable dining and wonder how far we can stretch our budget. Thanks.

        1. re: glbtrtr
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          Joan Kureczka RE: glbtrtr Nov 5, 2008 04:20 PM

          You obviously didn't bother to look at the link that I provided.

          All the prices are on the Der Pschorr menu in Euros. The most we paid -- for a pretty high end venison entree was about $21 euros, or currently in the vicinity of about US $27. A plate of wurst with kraut or potato salad would set you back about $10 or so. I think my smoked poultry and salad was about US $15 - 16. These are pretty typical prices at the beer halls. Portions tend to be medium to quite large, so we never bothered to order more than one course (and those sometimes came with side salads at the Weisses Brauhaus).

          There are plenty of more expensive places to dine in Munich, but we like these places for the price. You can also lunch very cheaply in the Victualienmarkt at the various stalls and little food stands that offer everything from flammenkuche to sandwiches to various sorts of wurst to seafood.

          1. re: Joan Kureczka
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            glbtrtr RE: Joan Kureczka Nov 5, 2008 09:26 PM

            Thanks for the report and I can hardly wait to enjoy this spot. Appreciate the follow-up and the insider tip.

    2. biondanonima RE: Joan Kureczka Feb 18, 2009 11:07 PM

      Joan, thanks for this rec. BF and I were just in Munich for 2 days and ate at both the Weisses Braeuhaus and Der Pschorr. I enjoyed the beer much more at the Weisses Braeuhaus, but the food wasn't great - it was just typical, heavy and not that interesting. The food at Der Pschorr, on the other hand, was marvelous - I had a terrific veal goulash with butter spaetzle and a salad with a delicious walnut oil dressing and BF had braised pork ribs with the best scalloped potatoes I've ever tasted. I felt the food here was a little less "traditional" than at WB, Hofbraeuhaus, Haxenbauer, etc - but much, much more interesting. Also, I felt the prices were more than fair - unlike some of the beer halls. WB was inexpensive but Haxenbauer I thought was VERY overpriced (part of the reason we didn't eat there!).

      8 Replies
      1. re: biondanonima
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        glbtrtr RE: biondanonima Feb 19, 2009 07:45 AM

        Was in Munich in December, 08 and went back intentionally to Weisses BrauHaus because it was fantastic, and that was even after already having dinner at Andescher. The one plate I had both times was the roast pork breast with saurkraut and potato pancakes so I can only speak for that item, but for tourists who are looking for a traditional German dish, this was A++++++++++.

        Yes, I imagine for locals they may want more adventure and novelty than just extremely high quality traditional German, but if you are tourist and/or in love with traditional German, Weisses Brau Haus was by far the very best. And we sampled as many other beer halls and had similar dishes in all of them Weisses Brau Haus was in a superior class all by itself. For 9.5 Euros this was an extremely good deal and the beer was sublime. But you can say that for almost any brand in Munich.

        1. re: glbtrtr
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          tmso RE: glbtrtr Feb 20, 2009 02:19 AM

          I don't think your experience is in contradiction with the reports of the quality of food at the Weisses Bräuhaus declining. You only tried a single dish there. So the pork breast seems to still be good; but how are the Rahmschwammerln, the Semmelknödeln, the whitefish and trout, the lungs, Leberkäs, not to mention the game? I would expect Hounds looking for traditional Bavarian food to be very interested in these. If one person at the table gets a Schweinebraten, I'd hope another hound would go for the Münchner Voressen and the smoked trout; used to be that both would have excellent meals. But from what it sounds like, next time I'm in Munich for game season (missed it this year), I'll head over to Der Pschorr instead.

          If I feel like pork or a Weißwurst, I may give the Weisses Bräuhaus another try, though. And the beer is among the best in the city.

          1. re: tmso
            howler RE: tmso Feb 20, 2009 11:06 AM

            just got back from munich.

            excuse me if i kiss the sky - but the dark aventinus weiss beer from the keg is one of the most remarkable drinks i have ever had the pleasure to enjoy.

            touristy and glorious, don't miss weisses bräuhaus.

            1. re: howler
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              Marc RE: howler Feb 20, 2009 11:27 AM

              Due to change of personal habits I have not been to Weisses Bräuhaus for several years. Meanwhile the patrons changed several times – first getting AAA credits, then going downhill until the next appeared regaining AAA ratings.
              But as this local is the flagship of SchneiderBrewery there is always a good chance to get “the perfect Bavarian meal”.
              And at least the genius loci (vulgo: famous place, typical crowd, interesting menu) is worth the visit - risk included, experience guaranteed.

              1. re: Marc
                howler RE: Marc Feb 22, 2009 01:23 AM

                marc - i must make sure to get your advice next time i visit. i wandered along the isar by the peace angel; a lovely area which looked full of promising restaurants.

                1. re: howler
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                  Marc RE: howler Feb 22, 2009 01:34 AM

                  You are most welcome!

              2. re: howler
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                glbtrtr RE: howler Feb 21, 2009 08:48 AM

                Wonder what "touristy" means as we saw few to none when we visited many beer halls in Munich, save the Hofbrauhaus, which was definitely full of tourists and yet still many locals, favored tables and all. But even that was fun.

                1. re: glbtrtr
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                  LorenzoGA RE: glbtrtr Dec 16, 2009 11:45 AM

                  "Touristy" can be an interesting perception. The people sitting next to you speaking German could very well be "tourists." I was sitting in the Weisses Brauhaus trying to decipher the menu (I had both English and German menus to compare the translation), and was totally confounded by some of the dishes. So, I turned to the German couple who happened to be sitting next to me, asked if they spoke English and if they could help explain some of the Bavarian specialties. The guy said, "I have no idea what some of this stuff is--we're from Stuttgart!"

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