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Shirako at Kirko

Porthos Oct 17, 2008 10:14 PM

Just got back from Kirko. The quality was okay but the tab was MORE than my average Mori tabs. On this recent visit, the kurodai was good, as was the spanish mackeral. The torched barracuda was very good, the one item better than Mori's. The kanpachi was also delicious. However, the shimaaji was pretty tasteless, the kinmedai was torched and tasted of acrid smoke, and the blue fin tuna and toro were very mediocre. Sweet shrimp was only minimally sweet and the lowest quality sweet shrimp I've had in a while.

Overall, I would say the entire visit was a bit disappointing. The only saving grace was the amazing shirako. It was creamy, utterly fresh, and the sac having that slight crunch. Delicious. As luck would have it, I sat next to someone who works at IMP and he informs me that it is now shirako season and that it is usually available at Kiriko on Tuesdays and Fridays.

The price tag makes it hard to justify going to Kirko over Mori though...sublime shirako or not.

  1. e
    exilekiss Oct 18, 2008 09:54 AM

    Hi Porthos,

    Great report. Thanks for the update on Kiriko. Good to hear about the Shirako there (the last time (and first time) I had it was at Kagura a month ago - it was delicious).

    Aburi Kinmedai is... tragic. :( Especially for a fish that good.

    1. K K Oct 17, 2008 10:55 PM

      Aburi kinmedai? Scandalous.... I'd only accept nitsuke as another prep!

      It's also matsutake season. Is this the same place you reviewed that had the matsutake dobinmushi, or did I confuse it with another place?

      5 Replies
      1. re: K K
        J.L. Oct 17, 2008 11:54 PM

        Lots of places offer a matsutake dobinmushi, when it's in season.

        Place Yuu (just down the street form Kiriko) has my favorite rendition.

        1. re: J.L.
          kevin h Oct 18, 2008 12:02 AM

          I just had a fantastic preparation of dobin mushi at Urasawa recently: http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/564129

          The earthy flavor of the matsutakes in the broth was simply wondrous.

          1. re: kevin h
            trojans Oct 18, 2008 12:34 AM

            Sushi Zo has a fantastic cod milt

            1. re: kevin h
              J.L. Oct 18, 2008 01:29 AM

              Funny, I've never been to Urasawa during matsutake season...

              Luckily, I'm planning an 8th trip to see Hiro-san in December (another corporate account dinner). Will report back!

          2. re: K K
            Porthos Oct 18, 2008 03:23 AM

            Yep. Kiriko has matsutake dobinmushi on the menu now. I haven't had their version this season yet. I've had Mori's twice now this season and it's delicious.

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