As an American living in Japan with no money, I took the advice I cut out from the NYT and went to "Monja-dori" at Tsukijima in Chuo-ku. I didn't find the place ("Kanehara") recommended by the paper (and I'm very good at addresses in Japan; I misspent my youth here), but I found two other very pleasant places: Atelier Bar Jim for a pre-dinner drink, and then Monja Taro on the same block for dinner. Great ladies served me all evening. But I did learn I prefer okonomiyaki to monjayaki. Still, I'd like to go back. Any other chowhounds been to this neighborhood? Other recommendations are most welcome!!