Delicious "Porkburger" on Flushing's Union Street
Stopped by this wonderful hole-in-the-wall for some wonton noodles and a couple of bags of frozen dumplings, noticed all the regulars were lined up for these babies. About the size, thickness and circumference of a bing, maybe a tad thicker. Softer on top, with a slightly burned and crispier bottom, through which you can spy an eyeful of meat. The exterior is slightly flakey, like phylo, the interior layers of paper-thin dough surrounding ground meat that is wonderfully seasoned and extremely moist, the same consistency as one would find in a well-made dumpling. Think of this porkburger - an off-menu item for which I wasn't able to get the name due to my extremely challenged Mandarin - as something of a cross between a burek and the lamb burger sold at one of the stalls in the Golden Shopping Mall. It is - to quote the words of that peerless food critic, Cosmo Kramer - a "taste explosion."
Some of you are already familiar with the place. Yipin Chinese Cuisine. A block or two off of Roosevelt on Union (turn right if you're heading toward Parsons, left if you're on your way to Main). They got some much-deserved attention from a Times article on Flushing a few weeks back, mostly for their gargantuan portions of cold sesame noodles and their superb thistle dumplings, (which my wife now uses in her recipe for Duk Mandoo Guk, a Korean dumpling soup). It is run by two women, one of whom does all the cooking and is a very friendly and gracious hostess. Kudos to the Times, in this case, for championing a bare bones joint - about four tables with an adjoining napkin dispenser - that's all about the food.
Yipin is my kind of place. For my next visit, I'll be sure to try the chive pancake, which was also an item that went very quickly. That is, if I can tear myself away from the porkburger.
Yipin Chinese Cuisine
40-04 Union Street
Flushing, NY 11354