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Nice, France in November

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  • 46137 Oct 8, 2008 06:26 PM
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Any suggestions for Nice? When I search, I get a ton of hits for nice (the adjective!) :)
I'm a big chowhounder - love markets, local food, etc. I am looking forward to hearing your suggestions!

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  1. I am not current on the upscale restaurants but will make a few suggestions for a couple of local specialties at midday. You must have Socca and the best are in the old places in the Old Port in Nice. Villefranche is just to the east and has great fun casual bars and restaurants along the waterfront. The best Pain Bagnat I have had anywhere in France is at a little shack snuggled up against the wall right on the beach in Villefranche. It is outdoor so it may be too cold or not even open in November.

    The Chevre d'Or in Eze is worth the trip because the village and the views of the Med from high on the hill are awe inspiring. I believe it has one or two Michelin stars. It got the stars since my last visit but the food has always been top notch..

    1. If you love markets then you'll enjoy the Cours Saleya market which is held every morning except Monday when it's an antique market. For regional fare La Merenda is good and very well known. They have no phone so you must make reservations in person. Another favorite for local cuisine is Acchiardo on rue Droite in the old town. Both restaurants are closed on weekends and neither takes credit cards.
      For something more upscale I like La Tire Buchon in the old town, Pot d'Etain on rue Meyerbeer and Bisro d'Antoine also in the old town.
      My favorite splurge spot is Jouni La Reserve. The waterfront setting is lovely and the food is top notch. It is actually 2 restaurants in one--the downstairs is a more casual bistro (but still pricey) and upstairs is a more formal dining room. I have only eaten in the bistro but I've been there a number of times and have always been pleased.
      Socca is a must try as previously mentioned. Another foodie thing in Nice I'm fond of is the Alziari Olive Oil. It is my favorite olive oil ever. They have a neat little shop near Cours Saleya.

      3 Replies
      1. re: sgbslo

        Not quite as crowded, the city of Menton, still on the French Riviera, has great markets and restaurants.

        1. re: grantham

          thank you all for the suggestions!!

          1. re: grantham

            In Menton, I would definitely try Mirazur, a one star with a great view of the med and delicious food

        2. l'Ane Rouge has amazing Bouillabaisse and Bourride, but you need to order them at least 24 hours ahead.

          5 Replies
          1. re: ChefJune

            L'Ane Rouge is wonderful...didn't have the Bouillabaisse or Bouride, but what we did have was fabulous. Also went to Le Tire Bouchon and enjoyed that as well. And you must go to the Cours Saleya - and get some socca as previously mentioned.

            1. re: sistereurope

              will do!

              1. re: 46137

                In addition to places mentioned above, I'd recommend La Zucca Magica, an unusual, all-vegetarian restaurant near the old port. (It was recently written up in the New York Times, if you want to do some research on the place.) There is no menu -- just a set, multicourse meal that is based on market ingredients. The food is rich and creamy and utterly delicious. Another place worth checking out is Au Moulin Enchante, a modest little bistro with very reasonable prices that is off the beaten track. I second the recommendation for Socca in the Cours Saleya -- Mme. Therese has a stand in the middle of the market, and cooks it for you as you wait. (I'd generally stay away from restaurants in the Cours Saleya, though - most are overpriced and touristy, in my experience. ) I would definitely make the effort to get a table at La Merenda. It's sometimes easier to do this at lunch, if you happen to be walking by. If they have the fried zucchini blossoms on the menu, make sure you order those -- they are addictive. Another great foodie experience is the Marche Buffa, a covered market on Rue Buffa, where you can get wonderful fixings for a picnic lunch. It's smaller than the Cours Saleya, but worth a visit. Drink the local Bellet wine, take long walks along the Promenade des Anglais, and be sure to stop for ice cream (gelato, really) at Finnochio in the old town.

                1. re: Fay

                  On side of cours Saleya away from the main highway is a stand that also has excellent socca. If you are unaware, socca is a crepey thing made from chick pea flour that is cooked over wood in a pizza type pan if you are lucky and then has pepper and a little olive oil on it, so different, but fabulous. That stand also has pissaladiere a provincial pizza that has anchovies, olives, and cheese on it, wonderful.

                  1. re: Delucacheesemonger

                    Is that Bar Rene Socca? I remember that place having all those goodies. And I went back there for snacks every day!

          2. I recommend Luc Salsedo, L'Aromate, Le Diamant Noir, Keisuke Matsushima, Don Camillo Creations, all in Nice.

            1 Reply
            1. re: beaulieu

              thank you beaulieu!