Fruitvale pilgrimage: ready to worship at the taco altar
Greetings San Francisco Bay area Hounds. You have been so generous with help on our past two trips, here I am again, hat in hand. We are coming for 4.5 days (second w'end in Nov) and based on the many threads here, I think I want to spend a good portion of one in the Fruitvale area of Oakland, which I have heard characterized as like being in Mexico.
We are seriously Mexican food/taco deprived here in Vancouver, and since I am already somewhat aware of the multitudinous offerings in the Mission (see April 2008 trip report day 3 LONG here http://www.chowhound.com/topics/512596), thought this longer jaunt would be a good chance to expand our Mexican dining experiences.
Here is what I have short (long??) listed so far:
Nieves Cinco De Mayo for ice cream
Ojo de Agua for aguas frescas near Bart Station
El Novillo "one of the finest example of carnitas that I have ever tried" per Ruth Lafler
El Gordo 4201 International Blvd carnitas, al pastor
Mi Grullense trucks International Blvd & 30th Ave
Sinaloa Taco Trucks and Taqueria 2138 International Blvd & 22nd Ave: carnitas
El Grullo Foothill Blvd & High St Oakland: carnitas
La Gran Chiquita for pork shank carnitas and nopal tacos al vapor, maybe a sincronizada
Chaac-Mool deli and cafe 3700 E.12 for pollo mixiote and sopes
El Huarache Azteca for Mexico City-style corn specialties and a sitdown
Otaez 3872 International Blvd Oakland; again, one of Ruth Lafler’s fave sitdowns but I'm not sure what exactly are the standouts
El Oasis 3612 International Blvd jamaica raspado, escamocha "fruit salad"
If we haven't exploded after all that, is there anywhere else you recommend? Or any place listed we should miss? It seems this would be an okay area to hit on a Monday (I'm aware that many restos close on Mondays in San Francisco but not so sure about Oakland).
Finally can anyone tell me about the Fruitvale public market? I've only found one mention of it and it was not revelatory re time, place, what's there etc.
Thanks for any and all input.
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This might be a place to get a cup of coffee - Panaderia La Favorita
http://www.chow.com/places/39652East Bay Express mention
http://www.eastbayexpress.com/bestof/...›1 Reply-
re: rworange
Bless your tiny cotton socks for keeping the SO's coffee habit under control, rw! La Favorita is now on the radar. Although I have to avert my eyes from any evidence of conchas -- I still have nightmares about them from trips to Mexico when I was a child. But I did love how they arrived at your pension door with coffee and juice!
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Forgot to mention the Pipirin Taco Stand on 34th Ave and Farnam St. They're good for barbacoa and pierna tacos, but I'm not a fan of their steamed tortillas (or slightly warmed). I'm partial to grilled tortillas.
But definitely grab some of their consomme to warm you up in November. The consomme has a nice depth of flavor and has quite the kick to it.
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re: grayelf
In actuality, I didn't say Mission Street was like Mexico City, which I've never seen. I said it has more or a Barrio feel than Fruitvale. I don't know South LA (East LA?) but Mission feels more like the Latin/South American stretch of Roosevelt Avenue in Queens, NY where if not a taco truck, there's an arepa cart or Ecuadorean ceviche truck or two in every block. (There's the true Latin nosher's paradise.)
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re: grayelf
A burrito crawl will kill you ... waaay too filling. Otherwise I'd recommend the elusive breakfast burrito at Ojo de Agua ... Ruth seems to be the only one who can order this. One day, when I've fasted for a week, I'll give it a try again ... or make sure I can get Ruth to go with me as a translator, so to speak.
I've never tried them, but there is also World Tamales across the street fro Ojo de Agua.
It is funny, but one of the reasons Fruitvale seems more like Mexico to me is the higher concentration of street vendors ... and more interesting ones than in the Mission. I don't think I've ever seen a vendor selling cut fruit in SF, but there is one on every corner at Fruitvale. Also, as Xy mentioned, there is more of a Central American representation in the Mission. My feeling is exactly the opposite as to fruitvale being an auto-oriented sprawl ... especially around the Bart station where you will be. It is just that Fruitvale goes on a lot longer than the Mission ... though maybe not. There are lots of places beyond the 16th-24th street area in the upper Mission ... all the way to Daly City. Fruitvale similarily has the highest concentration in the area between Fruitvale Ave and High St.
Yeah, next trip consider Redwood City. I worked there a while and kind of place it third behind Fruitvale and the Mission.There are some interesting places further down on the Peninsula I want to try like the new Oaxacan Kitchen or this place I'm going to try to get to for Day of the Dead that does special regional dishes. It is like a nothing restaurant except for the regional stuff and they do special tamales for DOD.
Hmmm ... Berkeley controversy ... wasn't XY involved in that too? That's ok, XY can see the East Bay from his home. Seriously, traveling in the easterly direction doesn't make it a bridge to nowhere.
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re: rworange
Speaking of Tamales, if you get there early enough on Monday morning, you can catch tamale cart vendors 2 blocks north of International on Fruitvale Ave. My favorite one, and the one all the locals seem to gather around, is Tamales Acapulco. It's in front of 1680 Fruitvale, and there's usually 1 or 2 other vendors nearby.
They offer chicken or pork tamales like everyone else, but what I like about their cornmeal is they add a red chili paste to it, that gives it a nice kick, and their tart cilantro salsa verde complements it perfectly (they have a red salsa too). And don't forget some of their pickled cabbage.
All this for $1.50!!
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re: grayelf
For tamales, if you can't find a street cart (if you can't find the one rworange recommended there's usually one at the north-east corner of International and 35th), then by all means check out The Tamale Queen at World Cup Coffee -- her back patio is a nice place to sit and digest, too.
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re: Ruth Lafler
Thanks +++ to everyone for the excellent advice and suggestions -- I think we'd need a week to try them all. I've adapted Ruth's suggested tour with some additions as follows. Please let me know if any of these are too far out of the way and/or out of order (I haven't quite got the hang of the Oakland Google map). Also please tell me where in the itinerary La Gran Chiquita would fit -- I can't suss it. If we make it to all these places, we'll have to hibernate for the rest of the trip!
El Novillo for carnitas and/or tripas
Taco Grill in the Public Market for daily special dish
El Ojo de Agua for agua fresca or an atole
Fruit cart on International for hidden ear of corn
Tamales Acapulco for red chili tinted tamales and cilantro salsa verde
Mariscos La Costa for the shrimp ceviche tostada or agua chile
Mi Pueblo Food Center on High Street to browse, watch the tortillas come out of the machine
El Grullo for a carnitas taco
Back down International to El Huarache Azteca for fresh masa sope with chicken tinga
Chaac-Mool deli for cochinita, carnitas serranas, milanesa in the style of Jalisco, mixiotes Chilango style
El Oasis 3612 International Blvd Jamaica for raspado, escamocha ("fruit salad")
Powderface 3411 East 12th for coffee and beignets (SO will be desperate for some caffeine by now)
Nieves Cinco de Mayo for ice cream and maybe a churro from the outside vendor there
Collapse onto BART in food comaLa Gran Chiquita Taqueria for carnitas de Chamorro (pork shank), taco de moronga (blood sausage), nopal taco, sincronizada, gordita, quesadilla with squash blossom and huitlacoche (corn fungus), longaniza taco, pass on the aguas here
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re: grayelf
Ok, I put a little Google map together for you
http://local.google.com/maps/ms?ie=UT...Would have done it using the new Chowhound list feature, but it doesn't find taco trucks and such.Don't know where the tamale and fruit places are so not on the map.
Anyway, based on that I'd revise your schedule as follows ... and you really need BOTH tacos at El Novillo ... you won't find better examples of either.
El Novillo for carnitas and tripa
El Ojo de Agua for agua fresca or an atole
Fruit cart on International for hidden ear of corn
Tamales Acapulco for red chili tinted tamales and cilantro salsa verde
La Gran Chiquita Taqueria moranga is outstanding
Mariscos La Costa for the shrimp ceviche tostada or agua chile
Mi Pueblo Food Center on High Street to browse, watch the tortillas come out of the machine
El Grullo for a carnitas taco
El Huarache Azteca for fresh masa sope with chicken tinga
Chaac-Mool deli for cochinita, carnitas serranas, milanesa in the style of Jalisco, mixiotes Chilango style
El Oasis 3612 International Blvd Jamaica for raspado, escamocha ("fruit salad"
)Nieves Cinco de Mayo for ice cream/raspado and maybe a churro from the outside vendor there
Taco Grill daily special dish (to go?)
Powderface - skip itPowderface is right at the Bart station should you decide you want to go there so it should be last. Seriously though, it is the worst beinet I've ever had and the coffee was even worse. A friend and I threw both away. Maybe good at one time but recently ...yuck.
Looking at the map you might do some more juggling. I'd stop by Oasis on the way up and maybe move Chaac-Mool before taco grill/cinco. Cinco makes a pretty nice raspado, probably the best I've tried. The text on this site is too small for me to search much ... my eyes burn out .. but you might find my posts about Cinco through places. I think it was the pineapple with chili on top I liked a lot. You have to ask for the chile.
Since it is on the way, do at least take a peek into Otaez 3872 International Blvd and watch the tortillas being made by hand.
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re: DezzerSF
Okay you people are just too much. So much great advice and an actual Google map to boot. Anybody here want to take November 10 off and get treated to anything they want in Fruitvale, let me know... seriously.
Here's the latest iteration, with two what I hope are final questions at the end... thanks again for all your help and patience.
El Novillo for carnitas and tripa
El Ojo de Agua for agua fresca or an atole
Tamales Acapulco for red chili tinted tamales and cilantro salsa verde 1680 Fruitvale Ave, 2 blocks north of E 14th St (International Blvd) AM ONLY!
Fruit cart on International for hidden ear of corn
La Gran Chiquita Taqueria, moranga taco for sure (also consider nopal or longaniza tacos, carnitas de Chamorro, quesadilla with squash blossom and huitlacoche)
Mariscos La Costa for the shrimp ceviche tostada or agua chile, ?fish taco?
El Oasis 3612 International Blvd for Jamaica raspado, escamocha ("fruit salad")
Mi Pueblo Food Center on High Street to browse, watch the tortillas come out of the machine
El Grullo for a carnitas taco
El Huarache Azteca for fresh masa sope with chicken tinga
Otaez 3872 International Blvd Oakland; hand made tortillas; caldo Tlalpeno; fish, cabeza, chicken tacos
Chaac-Mool deli for cochinita, carnitas serranas, milanesa in the style of Jalisco, mixiotes Chilango style
Nieves Cinco de Mayo for ice cream/pina-chile raspado and maybe a churro from the outside vendor there
Taco Grill daily special dish (to go?)Anywhere particularly good for a fish taco? La Costa?? I think I only saw Sinaloa mentioned specifically and it’s a bit far. Possibly also saw Otaez mentioned for this but alas I somehow lost all my Otaez research (which is why it wasn't on my last list).
Powderface is gone (thanks rw) but would appreciate a coffee rec if poss to keep SO content…Ruth mentioned World Cup for Tamale Queen but what about for java? We’re fans of Blue Bottle and Ritual if that helps.
As the young folk say, you guys rock!
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re: DezzerSF
Ok, added it. Then it makes more sense to do this route. I assume there are two of you.
De-Bart and head toward El Novillo truck.
El Novillo - split 1 carnitas 1 tripa tripa taco
El Ojo de Agua for 1 agua fresca, 1 atole bring paper cups to split
Fruit cart on International for corn (there's a milliion)
Check out panaderias on the way up Fruitvale
Tamales Acapulco split red chili tinted tamales and cilantro salsa verde
La Gran Chiquita Taqueria split moranga
El Oasis dessert raspado, escamocha ("fruit salad")
Mi Pueblo Food Center on High Street to browse, watch the tortillas come out of the machine
El Grullo for a carnitas taco
El Huarache Azteca for fresh masa sope with chicken tinga
Mariscos La Costa for the shrimp ceviche tostada or agua chile
Chaac-Mool deli for cochinita, carnitas serranas, milanesa in the style of Jalisco, mixiotes Chilango style
Taco Grill daily special dish (to go?)
Nieves Cinco de Mayo for ice cream/raspado and maybe a churro from the outside vendor there
Powderface - if you must
Re-BART - note: there is a fine for eating on BARTYou might bring along some plastic take-out containers to save some of the stuff that might be re-heatable so you don't OD on food. Don't know if you will have a fridge or microwave. If you need to know, ask Ruth about the finer points of splitting a taco.
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re: rworange
Very good. The only change I would make would be to put Mariscos La Costa after El Oasis, rather than between El Huarache Azteca and Chaac-Mool.
There are a couple of ways to split tacos. The "no tools needed" way is to slide the doubled tortillas apart and reditribute the filling. However, I usually bring my trusty cheap pair of kitchen shears and instead snip them in half (turning the tips of the shears down and using them like pinchers, as they do for dim sum). For two people the former is probably just as good as the latter, though. I second the idea of a small cooler (or insulated bag) -- a couple of extra paper cups for splitting drinks always come in handy.
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re: Ruth Lafler
I've downloaded the new Google map and printed it in colour (thanks ++ rw) as well as making the appropriate adjustments. I've also made notes on the tools to bring (can't wait to see what happens to the kitchen shears at US security). We only have one of those lame-o bar fridges in the hotel so will have to order judiciously. We're going to have the hotel's continental breakfast to leave room, and have a light meal slated for dinner (but more on that in yet another post).
Does anyone know of a good coffee place on our route? That would be the cilantro on the taco :-).
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re: grayelf
For coffee, maybe try Saigon Wraps right in the Fruitvale BART village. They have Vietnamese coffee, but I can't vouch for it. Powderface is right across from it. I think those two might be your only options.
Edit: After further research, it looks like El Huarache Azteca might have a "cinnamony, sweet coffee". Also, you might try Fruitvale Cafe & Grill, which looks to be part of Mi Lindo Mazatlan @ 1438 Fruitvale (closer to the BART station than El Huarache Azteca.
Lastly, I'm pretty sure Tamale Queen / World Cup Coffee is closed down. I just read another recent report confirming it.
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I'd suggest reserving at least a half-day for Mission Street in SF (roughly 16th-24th). Not rich in taco trucks but richer in sit-down places and with a greater admixture of non-Mexican Central American eats (Salvadoran, Nicaraguan, Yucatecan). It's also more energetic and has more of a Barrio flavor than Fruitvale, which feels like the 'burbs to me.
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re: Xiao Yang
Guess you haven't been to Mexico City, XY. Fruitvale is very close to that. More so than the Mission which is getting pretty gentrified these days. However, even in the past it never reminded me much of Mexico. There's a nice Guatamalen section in Fruitvale, but too many blocks away from where the OP is going ... and that section is better on the weekend or evening.
Anyway the Fruitvale Public Market is where Nieves Cinco de Mayo is located. There is also an outside churro vendor there. Don't know if the bakery is open yet. Hmmm ... there was some Mexican joint across the street that interested me for some reason, but sorry, eye burn from the type on this site, so will have to pass on searching for it. You have a good selection to choose from anyway. There is a little restaurant in the Public Market next to the flower stand, blanking on the name. No one on the board likes it but me, so I thought I'd pass that along if you decide to strike out on your own and try something new. The thing with that place is that the tacos might not be better than others, but they usually do a special dish each day that is good. Nice salsa bar in back and they use natural or organic ingrediants.
I'd still choose Ortez. You might give the Azteca soup a try. The whole fried fish is good too.
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re: Xiao Yang
Don't see what density has to do with it.
Fruitvale just looks a lot more like Mexico City and not like the area around Chupultapec where I stayed, but more like the area where I worked around the old bull ring where few tourists, if any, ever ventured. While there are good and bad suburban area everywhere, suburban in Mexico often means people living in houses made out of cardboard and scrapes of plywood.
Mission PIe, Minako Organic Japanese Restaurant, Foreign Cinema, Cha Cha Cha, Weird Fish, Sugarlump coffee lounge, Bar,Bambino, Maverick, The Monk's Kettle, the new St. Francis Fountain and Candy, the new Roosevelt Tamale Parlor and Dynamo with its $2-$3 donuts seems like a trend in gentrification tome. Nothing like that near Fruitvale that I can recall. Doesn't count all those places on nearby streets like Bi-Rite market, Tartine, etc, etc.
As to not having been to the Mission, I guess I could pull out my zillion reports, but here's just my latest from 9/03/08 about Palacio Latino ... which is not on the gentrified list.
http://www.chow.com/places/36516I know you are just playing around and having fun, but it is misleading to the OP to try to portray Fruitvale as something it isn't. And as Ruth mentioned, the poster has been to the Mission and was asking about Fruitvale. Both the Mission and Fruitvale have riches in Latino food.
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re: rworange
I didn't portray Fruitvale as something it isn't. I was suggesting that there are ALSO riches of a different sort on Mission Street, and suggested allocating half a day our of 4.5 days to it. I wan't trying to shoot down Fruitvale, nor is Yimster, for that matter. No need to make a Joe-and-Sarah show out of it!
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re: Xiao Yang
I love the Mission dearly, but the tacos in Fruitvale are better than anything similar in 94110. BTW does anyone know if the Torta Loca on Mission between 24th and 25th is a spinoff of the one in Fruitvale? I haven't had a chance to check it out.
Add Powderface for coffee and beignets to your Fruitvale list. And beware as RW warns that not everything will be open on a Monday at lunch. The time we did a weekday crawl, and the El Gordo truck hadn't arrived yet, I wanted to cry.
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re: rworange
I think that little restaurant is called Taco Grill. I know a bunch of people who like it. I surprisingly haven't tried it yet, mostly because there is little vegetarian on the menu.
The bakery, Bakery El Sol, is finally open. I had been looking forward to it for a long time. Alas, I haven't been tempted to buy anything. They have donuts and some supermarket looking cakes. The owner says he makes everything fresh, but you can look into their tiny kitchen and see huge buckets of raspberry filling, shelf stable "buttercream", donut frying oil, etc. It just isn't that appealing to me.
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Thanks for the shout-outs grayelf! How are you getting around? If you're taking BART and walking, I'd suggest skipping Sinaloa, as it's several blocks (some of them not very salubrious) down International the opposite direction from all the others. If you want seafood, you can try Mariscos La Costa at 37th and International. I'm also not a fan of the Mi Grullense trucks, but many people like them.
With so many options, I'll narrow down to what I think are the very best at each place and a recommended route:
Start at El Novillo (just across Fruitvale west from the BART station) -- I love their carnitas, but if I were going to recommend only one thing, it would be the tripas.
Cross E. 12th to El Ojo de Agua -- the al pastor here is good, but you might want to just get an agua fresca (or an atole if they have it) here and save room for other places.
Walk up Fruitvale and head east (right from Fruitvale) on International -- find a fruit cart and get an ear of corn, slathered with mayo, rolled in grated cheese and sprinkle with cayenne pepper (note: the corn is usually not on display, you have to ask for it).
Continue east on International to Mariscos La Costa at 37th -- get the shrimp ceviche tostada, or if you're feeling flush, the agua chile.
What time/day is it? El Gordo is only at 42nd and International after 6 p.m. weekdays. Still, since you're probably ready to walk a little, I'd walk down that way to High St., and turn north (towards the hills) on High St. to the Mi Pueblo Food Center. Browse, watch the tortillas come out of the machine, maybe buy some take-out for later. I love the way all the staff say where they're from (including Oakland) on their name tags. There's also a churro vendor on that corner.
When you're ready to eat again, cross back over High St. to El Grullo and get a carnitas taco.
Walk back down to International. If El Gordo is open, get an al pastor taco and a suardero taco.
Continue back down International to El Huarache Azteca. Get something made with fresh masa with chicken tinga (chicken stewed in chipotle sauce) -- a sope would be a good choice.
You'll be wanting something different from Northwest Mexican (Jalisco/Michoacan), so cross back over International back to E. 12th and hit Chaac-Mool deli. I haven't tried it yet, but I'm sure someone will have some recs.
Walk down E. 12th to Nieves Cinco de Mayo for ice cream, and you're back at the BART station.Have fun! Pace yourself!
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re: Ruth Lafler
You're welcome, Ruth -- you and others such as Kaire Rasu and Eat Nopal and more were invaluable threadwise.
We are indeed BARTing (parking in the Bay Area being a tad on the frightening side and besides I like to eschew driving whenever poss re enviro concerns). I think it will be a Monday starting around 10/11 or so in the a.m. so likely not dinner but rather midmorning/lunch/early afternoon.
I thank you so much for your suggested itinerary and am chuffed to add La Costa -- how did you know that I adore shrimp ceviche?
Stay tuned for a refined list once I've added yours and others feedback, which I am happily reviewing as it comes in.
And one more question for anyone who's reading -- is there "touristy" stuff to do nearby (sights etc) or should this be a full-on snackage-centric visit? Just need to forewarn the SO if it is the latter. He is such a trouper putting up with my food obsessive trip planning...
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re: grayelf
There's nothing touristy in that area, I'm afraid. However, you can spend some time going in and out of various shops carrying Mexican goods (or goods that appeal to Mexican customers). The little complex that houses Nieves Cinco de Mayo has a nice little handicraft shop tucked down a corridor.
Oh, and one place that wasn't on your list, but I don't know if you omitted it deliberately for some reason, is La Torta Loca. Literally a hole in the wall (a counter in the side of a laundromat) in the 3400 block of International, they have great pambazos (the traditional filling is chorizo and potato, but they'll do it with tinga if you ask) and they also have a wide range of vegetarian options (nopales, squash blossom, mushrooms, peppers, etc.).
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re: Ruth Lafler
Thanks for the confirmation, Ruth. I guess that means we'll just have to amuse ourselves by eating more (dang!). I do love to ogle what are generally very exotic fruit, veg and other goods that we can't get in Van.
I have read about La Torta Loca and considered including it but vetoed it based on the bread-is-too-filling argument, anticipating your sage advice to pace myself :-).
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re: grayelf
Melanie's seminal foray into taco trucks, with an extensive discussion of pambazos/pambasos. This is the post that inspired me to explore the Fruitvale taco trucks, which prior to that had merely been a source of quick, cheap burritos on the way to the ballpark.
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hey grayelf, there is another Mexican altar to worship at see link
http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/535387
Can not speak for sushi monster but I should be around when you get here. Maybe a weekday crawl.
As someone who has eaten Mexican all over the Bay Area the Middlefiedl Road area is a good as it gets.
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re: yimster
Yimster, you have reduced me to tears with your link to Sushimonster's epic work (not to mention your kind offer of a shared crawl -- I've still never met another Chowhound!). The SF Bay area is an embarassment of food riches. But I fear Redwood City will have to wait until we have a car. I neglected to mention we are BARTing and the lame Google map I consulted seems to put RWC out of reasonable transit reach.
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re: grayelf
Just for your information, Bart goes to Millbare and you can get on Cal-Train and be in Redwood City is 20 minutes.
I will email sushi monster to see if we can do something.
Both Ruth and I have been to both area and both has something to offer to Canada has not. .
Parking in the Bay Area is no worse than BC. I use paid parking in Vancouver and am normally have on street parking here.
Our board here is very active and most long time poster have met and know each food likes and dislikes well.
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re: yimster
Good to know more about access to Millbrae from San Francisco (we are staying as usual at the Vintage Court) -- distances are so difficult to judge when you're not familiar with an area. I'm excited to know about it even if we don't make it there this time as our plan is to visit twice a year until we die -- can you tell we are big fans of your region?
We had a car our first trip to San Francisco in 2003 and we had endless problems finding street parking, and pay parking was astronomically expensive. My BIL lives in the Mission (hence our returns there each time) and will occasionally take us on car jaunts but we generally opt for transit to avoid the time it takes to find a spot. I don't love the parking situation in Vancouver but because I've lived here most of my life I guess I kinda know the nasty areas, like you seem to in SF...
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re: grayelf
Try the 511.org website for public transportation links. I use it often when I'm stuck at work and need to get somewhere (I vanpool to Richmond from Benicia) via BART and AC Transit (East Bay bus system) Most of the AC Transit lines in the East Bay run through BART stations or connect to other Transit agencies, i.e. Vallejo Transit at Del Norte BART, the bus to Marin also stops there #42 line.
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re: Bigshadetree
The new BART website (www.BART.gov) includes transit connections and point to point directions beyond the stations. Very handy.
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El Gordo is only open nights and weekends, get the Suadero or Al Pastor (spit roasted).
Mi Grullense - skip the Al Pastor, carne asada might be a better option.
Sinaloa - very good carnitas, literally dripping with lard. Fish tacos are good (nicely browned) on the rear truck, and I've heard good things about the other seafood choices.
Otaez has a taqueria side as well, I like their cabeza and grilled chicken.
Taqueria San Jose has its ups and downs, but I still like their Al Pastor and terrific tomatillo salsa.›2 Replies









