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Oct 3, 2008 04:23 AM

Le Bec Fin - one less star

It is always so sad when a gem of a restaurant fades into the sunset, and so it is with Le Bec Fin. It had been over ten years since I last visited Philadelphia and had what was one of my most memorable dining experiences. I can still vividly recall the glamour, the civility and the exquiste presentation of some of the most amazingly delicious foods and wines. Oh such a sweet dream.

Upon returning this past Saturday, I was prepared for something less than that memorable night ten years ago. I knew that Chef Perrier had willingly given up one of his stars in order to achieve a more relaxed, less formal and more widely accessable restaurant. I knew that he was now overseeing five restaurants and thus not able to give the attention a truly fine restaurant needs in order to shine. I knew that life had changed and that even for a glamorous occassion today, jeans, wrinkled shirts and unpolished shoes are considered appropriate attire by many.

Nevertheless, my dining companion and I spent Saturday afternoon searching for the perfect shirts, the perfect ties and polishing our shoes to a mirror finish. We arrived early, expecting to sit in the bar for about thirty minutes - we did not anticipate a wait of over ninty. Once seated, we again waited and waited...and that seemed to become the most consistent part of the experience, because between courses, we waited and waited...Perhaps that is why the greater part of the $80 dover sole remained untouched. Perhaps that is why we forego dessert, we simply could not wait any longer.

Yes the signature crab cake was everything I remembered and certainly worthy of accolades, as was the sauteed foie gras; although I was puzzled by the presence of soggy french toast which fortunately could be pushed aside. The dover sole, unfortunately, did not rise to the occassion - the butter having been browned a bit too long (burnt) and the waiters somewhat less than adept at their boning skills

And as for the group sitting at the next table, the Le Bec Fin of the past would never have attracted nor tolerated such a raucous crowd. Why the staff did not in some polite manner request that they tone done their boisterous howling and gutteral sounds is beyond my comprehension. I guess times have changed.

Sorry Chef Perrier, but I strip you of yet another star...

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  1. Honestly, I'm not at all surprised by your post... my last meal at le bec fin was made up of food served on chiped plates, pork tenderloin that was ordered medium well showing up at the table well done, dry as a bone, and waiters who should barely be working at a used car lot much less a (at the time) 5 star restaurant. I think he gave that star away before they took it away (again).

    1 Reply
    1. re: sanfrantransplant

      just a typo, I meant to say my pork was ordered medium rare... and showed up well done.

    2. When arrogance casts its bread upon the waters....

      My last (i.e. final) experience at Le Bec Not-So-Fin was at a second sitting luncheon years ago when an assistant "whatever" greeted us and had the audacity to lean in front of me and kiss my date on the mouth because he had remembered her from a culinary event a year before. We both were mortified. Later, we had a cream sauce served with a generous chunk of stainless steel scrubbing wool (which was humbly replaced sans abrasive condiments) only to find that our umbrella had been "lost" from the supposedly supervised cloakroom. A letter about the unsatisfactory state of affairs to Chef was ignored.

      Stars will set in their own due time. (chortle, chortle)

      1 Reply
      1. re: Chefpaulo

        We ate at Le Bec Fin during Restaurant Week -- the meal was advertised for Le Bar Lyonnais but was served throughout the restaurant. It was an absolutely superlative meal -- food, service, ambience, everything! All for $35! It was Le Bec Fin at its best (but with only one dessert instead of the dessert cart).

      2. We had a very heated debate here within the last year, when Le Bec Fin dumbed-down their dress code and modified the menu to attract the "youthful" audience. I had much stronger language to describe the bohemians who camp there now, but your post confirms the new status quo. Even good food is tainted by "boisterous howling and gutteral sounds" nearby.

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