Please review/comment on Paris eating plans...

[adam6]

Hi-

My wife and I are celebrating 10th anniv. in a few weeks. Heading to Amsterdam and then Paris. She's the kind of person who plans her travels aorund where she eats - I just go along for the ride. More interested in real food than fancy foods. Not into spending tons this trip, just eating deliciously and feeling cozy.

Please comment/advise on our current thoughts:

Paris - arrive by train from Amsterdam on a Thursday. Lunch at Cafe Constant? That night we'll go to Chez L'Ami Jean. Had reserved Violin D'ingres but switched...thoughts?

Friday she wants to go to 1st arr. to check out Dehllerin and other food shops, including G. Detout. Worth it? Lunch at a souffle place people talk about? Snack at ice cream place on ile St. Louis? Friday night dinner...??

Saturday - cooking class durnig the day. Late afternoon snack? At Mariage Freres? Dinner at Atelier Maitre Albert .... yes? no? Mon Vieil Ami? Want good food but also fun lively atmosphere...

Sunday - want to go to flea markets - which one? Picnic lunch from shops/markets? Sunday night...don't know...

Questiosn above plus = what abut Bistrot Paul Bert? Things we should switch? Missing? Thoughts? THANK YOU!

[NWWanderer]

I posted earlier today in another thread about my positive experiences at both Atelier Maitre Albert and Mon Vieil Ami--I just got back from my 50th birthday trip. I really liked the atmosphere and the food at both those places. Mon Vieil Ami is open Sunday nights when a lot of places are closed so you might keep it in mind for Sunday.

I also posted that I wasn't wild about L'Ami Jean but it certainly wasn't bad--just didn't quite live up to my expectations which may have been too high.

I only bought tea at Mariage Freres but there was quite the line-up when I was there on Sunday for getting in to the tearoom--I don't know if you can reserve but it's something to look into. I went back to Au Lys D'Argent on Ile St Louis for a cup of chocolate chaud and a slice of tarte tatin with creme fraiche--and it was as good as I'd remembered from my previous visit 8 years ago (went there then because it was recommended by Patricia Wells). But I think they close fairly early in the afternoon (maybe 3 PM or so)?

[erly]

I quite agree with you regarding L'Ami Jean, our meal this week was good, but not up to expectations.
My lamb, generous portion of rack was well done and I had ordered it rare.
DH enjoyed his duck.
We went as a change from Chez Denise which was supposed to be a similar experience.
It was, but Chez Denise is one of a kind, and we love the ambience.
The communal tables and the buzz.
At L'Ami Jean (I don't think it was a coincidence) all English speakers were sat in the same area.

[PhilD]

Stick with Chez L'ami Jean it is good - crowded and fun. It is quite cheap for the quality of cooking.

Why not go to Violin d'ingres on Friday night, it is much more formal than Chez L'ami Jean, with a nice room and much more relaxed (it is a one star).

I know many people love Mon Viel Ami, I think it is OK, nothing wrong but equally not one I returned to (and I lived in Paris). One thing I would say is that it a little staid so maybe doesn't meet your "fun lively atmosphere".

[adam6]

What about trying Cafe Constant or Les Cocottes for dinner on Friday? Too casual? Os Vilon very expensive? Should I book Violin for Saturday instead of Maitre Albert?

[PhilD]

I would say Constant and Coccottes whilst good are quite casual. Violin isn't that expensive for the standard of cooking but it is his most expensive - I think the menu is on the web. His fourth restaurant - Les Fables de la Fontaine - is good middle ground - if you like innovative fish dishes (it is also starred). I am afraid I have not been to Maitre Albert so can't comment.

[Oakglen]

The three course souffle meal at Le Souffle is sinfully good. And reasonably priced as well. Go for lunch; you will have all day to walk off the calories.

[Brunella]

Dehillerin is definitely worth it for a foodie. Not worth it for someone who is not into it. There are a couple of other cooking stores around the corner on rue montmartre. If she is into food as well as cookware you need to go to the food dept at the Bon Marche. Having ice cream at Berthillon on Ile St. Louis is something everyone tourist needs to do once. Mariage Frere is great. They have several different locations but I like the one in the 3e - the original and IMO most atmospheric. They have pastries which i dont believe are better than at other places but I would still recommend having a treat and a pot of tea there. They have hundreds of different teas, any of which you can order by the pot but unless you are into tea you wont have any idea what to order. Be daring....dont be a bore or order a boring old Earl Grey. Get something you've never heard of. You might also consider having a chocolat chaud at Angelina in the 1e. Its not as good as it used to be but its still fun and a lovely space.
I would not go to l'Ami Jean except for lunch. Its too crowded and loud and you are right on top of your neighbors. I prefer a more sedate atmosphere at dinner.

[f2dat06]

Keep Violon. It is quite good and excellent value for a 1 star, 45e for 3 courses. Since they reformulated 2 years ago it is not nearly as formal as it used to be. You do not get so much of the expensive ingredients as before, and they have 2 seatings per night now, but the cooking remains at a high standard. The seating is not closely packed and the dining room is tastefully decorated.

[souphie]

Bistrot Paul Bert is not excellent, but textbook bistrot, very typical. Not worth the trip in my opinion, but many disagree and I understand. l'Atelier Maitre Albert et Mon Vieil Ami are both typical charming settings and uncomfortable and not goot restaurants. There aren't that many flea markets. The one in Porte de StOuen is the original.

[Delucacheesemonger]

Agree with Souphie, as usual, regarding Bistrot Paul Bert. Chez Denise and Chez L'ami Jean are my both old and current favorites; Agree with Brunella that CLJ works better for lunch, even a bit late, 2 or so, or you and the guy next to you have to cut your meat at the same time. St Ouen, while the largest flea in world ,supposedly, is wonderful, but very ' retail' , but huge fun, l go every Sunday; The other where they say St Ouen buys it's stuff is at Porte de Vanves, also Saturday and Sunday but you can still get some finds and good deals, as l did this morning; Agree Berthillon is a must, but here is my super must. Chocolate chaud at Steiger-Constantine on Rue de Capucines near Metro Pyramides. Makes Angelina taste like water and each cup, while expensive, is hand made

[souphie]

And Christian Constant ice creams are better than Berthillon's, by far (rue de Fleurus, @Assas)

[souphie]

Should also make this definitive statement: France is the place where fancy food is sometimes real food. What you have in the best restaurants is worth it, not for the sake of feeling fancy.