Cracked Pepper Bistro

[P Macias]

Message

[P Macias]

I've had a pleasant visit in the Central Valley the past few weeks. I received an email from one of the Fresno hounds on the brown bag dinner at Trelio's that I, sadly, could not attend. Why hasn't someone posted on this sophisticated yet friendly and unpretentious event?

I've stuffed myself with amazing produce but also eaten out and had only one miss and that only because I did not check with the board beforehand.
Yesterday, after visiting the Wednesday afternoon Vineyard Farmer's Market (again), we agreed, on the venerable advice of the Fresno chowhounds, to sample the "not to miss" eggplant appetizer at the Cracked Pepper Bistro.

http://www.crackedpepperbistro.com/

We were the first to arrive at opening time of 5 pm.
This is a small (long and narrow) storefront in a strip mall on a busy boulevard.
A true Euro Bistro, immaculate, with decorative mirrors hung on terra cotta walls, white covers on about 12 four tops with attractive placemats, sparkling glassware and nicely weighted flatware. The kitchen is separated by a tasteful divider, half of which is a wine keeper. The other half contains a small opening for china storage in front of a nearly invisible bamboo curtain where the diners may be seen from the kitchen. Traditional jazz plays at a level conducive to enjoyable conversation.
We were seated at the far right corner of the room. The catbird seat.
Our waiter, Daniel, in addition to being movie star handsome was the most professional I've seen in 30 years. Daniel was pleasant, professional, attentive throughout the entire meal. A pleasure to observe, he handled the entire room with grace and ease. The Roger Federer of the dining room. I watched as the room filled up and wondered how long he would remain unruffled. When all but a couple of tables were full, a female wait person appeared as if by magic. They were such a smooth team, it was as if both of them had been there from the opening hour. Very seamless, most unusual these days.
Cut to the meal:
Water was served to which fresh and tasty cucumber slices were added, at the table.A nice baguette with a crisp crust and soft center was set on the table with a roasted red pepper and garlic aoili with just enough white pepper to get your attention. Of course, we all ordered our own eggplant appetizer. I was surprised at the large size which could have ostensibly been shared but ultimately, I was happy that it wasn't. It is listed on the menu as Mala Insana. Indeed. Despite all previous eulogies, we were not prepared for this experience. Graduated sizes of eggplant steak, lightly breaded in panko and pumpkin seed, sat atop Fresno fresh greens, Napolean style with roasted red peppers, palatable goat cheese and divine pesto. Detail: a serrated knife was placed on the table with the plate for ease of operation. About half way through the dish we all looked at each other in amazement. We were totally seduced and sedated! What sort of drug was this? or was it genius restaurant strategy? It's described on the menu as Mala Insana..believe it!
One in our party was a vegetarian and the other two adventurous chowhounds. Two of us ordered soup and were told there would be a 10 minute wait. A welcome respite before a savory, steaming dish of seafood/chorizo chowder with fresh corn, peppers and perfect spices placed before brought us back to consciousness. Had we the audacity to order an entree? You bet we did. The kitchen was gracious enough to accommodate the vegetarian by allowing her to choose individual components from the items on the menu into one customized plate which consisted of fresh greens, MORE eggplant, roasted peppers, lox, two types of fresh cheese, asparagus, capers, and olives. One happy camper here. One of us ordered half a roast chicken(with lovely crisp skin),orzo and fresh asparagus. She also enjoyed some passionfruit iced tea which was refilled as quickly as the water. I could not resist the short ribs. Two large, tender (and just enough fat thank you)ribs, on a bed of reduction that should be served in a glass with a straw along with fresh, crunchy green beans. A glass of the house cabernet was a perfect accompaniment. Our vegetarian ate 3/4s of her meal while the chicken and ribs were merely tasted and passed the deliciousness test before we stopped chewing. Here comes Daniel, smiling as he asks if we're giving up. Indeed not. We'll have the entrees bagged for tomorrow's dinner. Is there a dessert menu? Incredible what? It's verbal , a chocolate lava cake(the vegetarian is also a chocoholic), meyer's lemon creme brulee, and the forbidden...bread pudding. Had we died and gone to heaven or merely lost all reason and self control? We ordered one of each. The hands down winner was the bread pudding, far and away the ultimate in decadence. The creme brulee more like a lemon mousse and very refreshing. The portions were larger than most desserts with a more than adequate dollop of fresh, perfectly whipped cream. We were now paralyzed.
Chef Vache came to our table, introduced himself and inquired as to our satisfaction. I told him I was not native to the area and had been recommended (many times) by the Fresno Chowhounds. He was aware of the group and said he was grateful for their patronage and PR. He circulated throughout the dining room and even served some dishes himself.
I was impressed with the impeccable service and unswerving attention to detail. Example: Daniel asked us if all the take home packages were going to the same place, in other words, did we need more than one bag?
Even in a full room, we could carry on a comfortable conversation.
I very much appreciated the wait between courses and especially the fact that we were notified how long it would be. This is a place to linger, to savor and to return to.
We all agreed that the eggplant napolean should require a prescription. It's addictive, too.
Thank you, Chef Vache and thank you Fresno Chowhounds for an excellent visit.

[PolarBear]

Glad you got to experience CPB, Patricia, Vatche is truly a local treasure. I'm really happy you commented on the ambiance since there was a post in the recent past mentioning their displeasure with the jazz being played, which I think most of us regulars found.... well, unfounded.

There's one other dish I can think of that has the same seductive, addictive allure as CPB's eggplant app, and that is the Rock Shrimp w/Brie app at the Ripe Tomato in Fig Garden Village. Call and make sure that Rudy's in the house before you go.

[P Macias]

PB, you, Gail, Alan,Tavit and Dimsumgirl have all been a great help. I liked everything I've tried and don't know why you guys don't RAVE about some of it. My children have been to the Ripe Tomato but I just didn't have time this visit. I found the jazz to be a big plus at CPB but I'm a die hard jazz buff. Obviously someone else there is too and I found their taste in all things to be quite elegant. Loved the chef's personality as well as the food.
RE: dimsumgirl's post...I think if I had had gnocchi in addition to that eggplant I wouldn't have survived to tell it. Another thing, all the guests seemed to know one another. Is this because it's a neighborhood favorite or do the same people patronize the place all the time? It felt sort of clique-ish but yet comfortable. I'd go every night if I could.
I'm headed home today, via L.A. I didn't get to Trelio's which I will definitely not miss next visit and perhaps a Basque meal, also Bistro Rustico and your Ripe Tomato and the Thai Orchid place. Thanks for everything.
Isn't anyone going to give a quick post on the brown bag dinner at Trelio's? I know San Diego would love to hear about it and maybe initiate something similar.
If you guy's get down to San Diego, stop first at Paco's and EAT LAMB!

[tavmark]

Pat,

See http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/558583

[P Macias]

Thank you Tavmark. I think the idea is great. I'm sure if people eat that caliber of food, they will bring decent wine.That sounds like an event to anticipate. Next time I get up that way, I'll check with you first. I'd like to see a similar event here without the snob factor interfering.

[dimsumgirl]

PM: I'm glad that you got to experience the CPB. I have chowed with the Fresno locals there and enjoyed my meals there. If you make a return visit, be sure to ask Chef Vache if he has any gnocchi available. I really enjoyed them although it has been about a year since I have been there.

[mrsmegawatt]

Wow! It just delights me that people visiting Fresno would try our wonderful CPB. I read that they will expand into the store next door! Thank goodness that place is gone! It was always such an unfortunate neighbor for the Cracked Pepper. I'm sure that Chef V will be able to keep up the level of excellence once the expansion is done. I can't wait to return!

[Gail]

Curious about CPB's seating. From the few pics I've seen, it all looks like New York type seating. I mean by that, tables lined up too close together along the walls. I know this may change with the exspansion, but what is it like now?

[mrsmegawatt]

Well Gail, I think you're right about the seating. It is close. If you're along the wall, you're dining right next to neighbors. If you're at a 4 top it's a bit more private but the dining area is small. It's an intimate restaurant though. And the staff really do make an effort to make each party feel special. I think the expansion will be a good thing.

[P Macias]

I meant to thank the cocktailqueen for all your posts and recs. They are terrific.
I'm sorry I didn't get to meet you. Maybe next time.

[cocktailqueen77]

You're welcome!! I'm so happy that we were all able to point in the right directions...hopefully next time you are in town - or I'm in your neck of the woods - we can enjoy some great chow!!

[cocktailqueen77]

I don't want the "Closures and Changes" to get too confusing by adding information about days that certain restaurants are closing...so I figured I would add it here (since it applies to this restaurant) in order to keep eveything up-to-date.

CPB is no longer open for lunch...sad, I know! The lunch hours are still on the website though.

But the good news is that it has expanded to include a wine bar and additional seating!

[dinnertimediva]

Hi all! I'm new to the group, but as I have been rummaging around through old posts I have seen several in regards to Cracked Pepper Bistro, one of my favorite places in town! I was dining in there earlier this week and I uncovered the answers to some of the questions being asked in the posts:
The expansion is finally here! Although the city dragged their feet longer than the chef would've liked, their permits have finally been approved and the new dining area will open on Tuesday of next week. From what I understand the seating will be much the same with the city style banquettes as well as individual tables, but there will also be a wine lounge. The seating area will now be in the back of the room next door. I personally am thrilled to see what they will do with it once its opened, I was able to see it when I was in there the other night and the place looks great! Oh, and I was also told that they will be changing to a new (ish) menu within the next couple of weeks also!

[cocktailqueen77]

Thanks for the information dtd! And welcome!!

Can't wait to try CPB's new items!!

[dinnertimediva]

Thanks! I actually went in tonight to pick up a gift card and found out that there are apparently some other challenges with the city so their official opening may be delayed another week. The chef told me there should be an email sent out to everyone on their mailing list soon to keep the people updated!

[dinnertimediva]

Hey guys! I had another great experience at CPB and I wanted to share. I went in with my boyfriend on a whim a few days ago to get a glass of wine because I heard that their wine lounge is finally open and running. Great news, they have expanded their wines by the glass! I was excited because I always enjoy tasting new things. Also, they have some interesting new appetizers available in the lounge, one being a pink peppercorn and apricot pork patte (try saying that 3 times fast) that was very tasty, the other is a chicken liver mousse. I'm not a chicken liver fan, but my boyfriend loved it. Both are very nicely plated. So back to the wine lounge, it looks great. There are nice couches where we sat and were able to have privacy and drink our wine. I would certainly reccommend it to anyone. Also, I heard that they are going to be carrying some new wines, possibly from Napa.
The lounge looks like a great success, it was getting pretty busy while we were there. I definitely urge you all to check it out!

[Gail]

dinnertimedive, did they enlarge the dining area or are they serving dinner in the wine lounge? I've always disliked the close table situation.

[tavmark]

From today's Fresno Bee (Joan Obra):

About six months after starting its expansion, the bigger Cracked Pepper Bistro is open.

The restaurant, which specializes in contemporary American and European cuisine, took over the store next door in the Mission Village shopping center at Fresno Stree and Shaw Avenue. Owner Vatche Moukhtarian wanted to expand because his original 49-seat restaurant was too cramped.

Cracked Pepper now has double the space; it seats about 95, including about 20 in the lounge and bar. Moukhtarian is creating a bar menu; in about a month, he plans to open the bar in mid-afternoons.

For more information, call Cracked Pepper at [phone].