Traditional Bistro Food in the Marais
I will be visiting Paris in November, staying in the Marais near rue Malher/rue Rivoli.
I know there are alot of ethnic offerings in the area, but can someone recommend
any of the above that may be within walking distance? Also, good boulangeries,
markets, wine and cheese shops? Thanks very much!!
PS At that time of year, how far in advance does one need to make a booking?
in order to get most ethnic food, you'll have to leave the marais - there are a few recent threads on ethnic restaurants, mostly in the 13th, 10th, and 11th. In the marais there are several falafel places on rue des rosiers (most notably l'as du falafel). on thurs and sundays there's a large outdoor market at the bastille.
boulangeries: check out au levain du marais at 32 rue de Turenne.
wine shops: i really like Julien Caviste, 50 rue Charlot in the 3rd (north of where you'll be staying, but not far).
restaurants: breizh cafe (crepes - rue vieille du temple), cafe des musées: rue de turenne
While I am a big fan of Auberge de Jarente, and will be there in December, I wouldn't consider it to be bistro fare. Your best bet near the rue Mahler is Chez Janou, on the rue Roger Verlomme. In the other direction is Le Petit Picard in the Marias on rue de la Bretonnerie. And there are plenty of wonderful, and quite small, bakeries and assorted shops on the rue St. Antoine specializing in cheese, pate, wine and chocolate.
While it is known as a Basque restaurant, with hearty, tomatoe laced stews, it also has standard French fare, such as sauteed frog's legs, duck confit, cassoulet and the like. It is one of the better deals in town given that its 29 euro three-course menu comes with half a bottle of wine.
I haven't been to Monjul, although it is on my list of one of the hipper places to eat in the Marais. It, too, has reasonably priced two and three course menus, but wine is not inclusive.
I just got back on Monday and stayed in the Marais my last 3 nights in Paris. The concierge at my hotel recommended Gaspard de la Nuit on Rue des Tournelles for my last night, which I liked quite a bit. Since it was my last night, I splurged on the multi-course tasting menu for 75E, which included classics like seared foie gras and coquilles St. Jacques. But you could eat well for less there.
I also enjoyed a decent meal at Les Philosophes on Rue Vieille du Temple--the tomato tarte starter was especially wonderful. It's a bustling, busy, crowded place whereas Gaspard de la Nuit is quieter.