Two Gelato places (Scoop and Marine Ices), London
- limster Aug 27, 2008 05:43 PM
• Scoop (Covent Garden)
Bright ripe deep flavoured mango sorbet (sorbetto?). A good toasty, nutty flavour on the pistacchio, dense and sticky. The malaga is considerably softer, dotted with raisins and I somehow think that there's a hint of booze (which might account for the consistency of the gelato). Pleasant and enjoyable, although I admit I wasn't entirely blown away.
• Marine Ices (Chalk Farm, Camden)
A delicate melon with a sweet and gently sunny flavour. Little cubes of caramelised pear are lovely against good lumps of dense chewy ricotta distributed amidst a creamy backdrop. Amaretto was very faintly nutty, reasonable textbook texture but nothing fantastic. Enjoyable, but again not entirely blown away.
Perhaps should go back to both for more...Maybe I was lukewarm on them because the base on these weren't nearly as astounding as the yolky ones I had in Rome earlier this year. I'm kinda keen to try the Italian pastries at Scoop. They didn't have them when I was there, and mentioned that they might make it later after the summer.
Went back to Scoop again. This time the experience was much better, and I wonder if it was storage conditions. The gelati had a denser consistency (almost like an extra thick clotted cream) that was gorgeous, rather than being soft and slightly runny like the first time. Vanilla was beautiful -- light, almost perfumy at the beginning, mellowing to a rich luxurious flavour. The coffee flavour was smooth and elegant. I liked the slightly pulpy texture on the frutti de bosco and the concentrated flavour, but thought it was a touch too sweet.
In my rather comprehensive experience (worked in Covent Gdn for 6 months) fruit ices are always too sweet at scoop. Flavours which rely on creaminess, however, are without comparison in London. Important to acknowledge these caveats before passing judgment, and glad your second visit was more successful.
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