Japanese Noodle Expert tests LA
- Low End Theory Jul 18, 2003 03:49 AM
My friend Tomo is a Japanese noodle expert. Not only did he live in Japan until last year, he has a discerning palate and once worked in a renowned soba house (OK, as the delivery person...). Here are Tomos thoughts and feelings about some of LAs Japanese noodle purveyors. We have not tried Taiko, the Little Tokyo joints or most importantly Otafuku. Let us know if there are other spots you recommend!
Yabu 11820 W. Pico Blvd
I liked it fine but according to Tomo the soba didnt taste very homemade and the broth also tasted outsourced or at least overly prefabricated. For me these weaknesses were ameliorated by the fluffy whisked-until-bubbly yamaimo (Japanese yam) which I enjoy in my soba. Note: this is a soba place so order soba.
Mishima 11819 Wilshire Blvd
Low low marks, they are owned by a large corporation (Ive been using their mirin nori dashi sesame mix on my lunchtime rice) and Tomo feels the quality reflects this in a negative way. I found the tanuki soba passable but broth is from the company recipe, not that of the individual noodle master.
Yashima 11301 Olympic Blvd #210, Sawtelle Strip
Used to be a Mishima I believe, but soba has slightly superior quality now that theyve broken away. Tomo eats here, as Sawtelle is his hood. I liked the noodles but was disturbed by the onigiri three balls with a variety of flavours but unfortunately none were umeboshi (pickled plum) let alone mentaiko (cod roe)
Kotohira 747 W. Redondo Beach Blvd,, Gardena
Much love to Todai Plaza, which includes a jolly good yakiniku restaurant (Housenka), a tebasaki bar and this famed handmade udon place, among others. Udon is closest to Tomos heart and while not reaching his highest standards, Kotohira earned the rare accolade I would eat this in Japan, if it were cheap. Which it is. The shoyu udon (plain with soy sauce one adds to taste, dashi, green onion) is the best way to appreciate the lovable irregularities and smooth, yielding texture of the noodles here. Soup udon was a little overcooked and soft by Tomos taste. Karaage (fried chicken) lacked the crispy snap of better versions one of my desktop pictures is a shot of the fabulous karaage at Minako in SFs Mission District.
Ramen-ya 11555 W. Olympic Blvd
This favourite ramen and a winner on the Tomo scale. Keen to sample the simple stuff (usually the best indicator of overall quality) Tomo ordered the shio ramen, which features the clear Tokyo-style broth seasoned only with salt; compare shoyu which adds soy. Thumbs up for homemade broth and good quality noodles. I ordered the sansai ramen with Japanese vegetables, and was chagrined by Tomos comment we normally eat sansai only with udon or soba. The place is owned by Koreans I think so the kimchi was excellent, I look forward to trying the jya-jya noodle aka chachiang mein after my excellent experience at Mandarin House in Koreatown. I will, however, be avoiding the Singapore-noodle-not-found-in-Singapore as my friend Limster calls it, this has crossed over from the Hong Kong Cantonese menus where it normally resides to trick the unsuspecting diner.
Hakata Ramen Shin Sen Gumi 2015 W. Redondo Beach Blvd. #C, Gardena
We ate here tonight and had a great time. Just like the best genre films (The 36th Chamber of Ramen?) the noodle shops that Tomo and I treasure most are those that specialize! Here the only broth is Kyushu style tonkotsu ramen, milky-whitish and rich with the essence of many pork bones. The ramen eater faces important choices: opt for hard noodles which is how the Japanese have it. We also chose medium oil, yes on the pickled ginger and on the green onion. Noodles had commendable rubbery texture, while chashu (pork) was soft and very tasty. The style is different but overall I would pick this over Ramen-ya. An added bonus is the respectable selection of izaka-ya (Japanese bar) style snacks. We ordered the excellent cream croquette, a marvel of panko-breaded soft mash than nearly disintegrates upon a chopstick prod. It comes with the brown, okonomiyaki/takoyaki sauce. Nankotsu karaage (fried chicken cartilage) are definitely not for the middle of the road diner but the adventurous will savour the crunchy-chewy joints which are delicately fried and much more exciting than regular karaage. Last but not least we added the sutamina natto yep, it means stamina which was appropriate seeing as both of us went back to work afterward. Amazingly, natto is mixed with two other sticky foodstuffs, yamaimo/Japanese yam and okra and a generous dab of mustard for a hard-to-eat but delicious combination. A party in one's mouth and everyone's invited.
Ill keep reporting Tomos verdict on other Japanese spots including cheap sushi (the scientitific salary generally dictates low-end dining) and izaka-ya. Im also curious what he thinks of derived Japanese cuisines such as Matsuhisa-esque Peruvian and especially Hawaiian, not to mention the Curry House/Japanese-Italian parallel universe.
Low End Theory
You gotta try Daikokuya in Little Tokyo. 327 E 1st St.
It sounds similar to the ramen at Hakata. My boyfriend always orders it "kotteri" syle, with extra pork flavor. We took our (skeptical) Japanese friend there, and he's been back many times since.
Bonus: they're open really late... til around 2 or 3 am Mon-Sat, but Sun they usually close by 8:30.
here's another place for ramen:
located in the food court next to the market
3760 centinela ave
west l.a./mar vista
it's funny, but the owner reminds me of the guy who runs casa bianca pizza, they have the same sort of serious intensity. it shows in the food.
Excellent post - I'm also looking forward to Tomo's take on Otafuku (have you also considered Shin Sen Gumi? - just curious to see where it falls in his rankings).
What izakaya are you considering (Daruma? Furaibo? Toji? Kado? the place in LT that replaced Furaibo?). I hope you'll venture into OC to try places like Echizen (Cypress), Izkaya Honda (Tustin), and Kappo Honda (Fountain Valley). A complete comparison would be great!
I've always liked Hanaichimonme, on the 3rd floor of Little Tokyo Plaza (where the Mitsuwa market is), for ramen and yakisoba, but that could be because it's the first place I've ever been to. I'd be curious to see what your friend, or anyone else, has to say about that place.
as a japanese citizen living in LA for 8 years, I sadly have to agree with rivaloffantasista,
LA does NOT have much to offer when it comes to ramen,
even in South Bay I haven't encountered GREAT ramen (except Shin-sen-gumi circa '03...they totally lost it, the soup and the firmness of noodle is not the same) - though I hear Asa ramen is a new hot spot which I have not tried yet,
but there are a few decent places, such as the ones this topic states (http://www.chowhound.com/topics/475391) and I go to Santouka in West LA a lot (though I heard the Costa Mesa location has it best
)Kyushu ramen is NOT a noodle place, they have the BEST kara-age (deep fried) chicken of all JPN places IMHO, but their ramen is just average. Nippon Ramen on Reseda is fairly good, but it is REALLY hard to do Shoyu(soy sauce)-based soup ramen, which is why there's more hakata (tonkotsu/pork broth) style places that are highly regarded in LA. I do enjoy Orochon ramen in Weller court, Little Tokyo but only Miso-based. and when it's that spicy you can fake a lot of things :) Daikokuya is good enough but not worth the wait.
but that doesn't mean that I don't think rivaloffantasista is a douchebag, lol
Asa is good and while some call their broth "rich and robust", I find it mostly "salty as hell". But at the same time it is also very rich and flavorful. You can order a "light" or "dark" broth though--I don't remember what they're actually called and I loved the side topping like pork fat you can add. Adding pork fat to your noodle soup is just plain good.
Wow -- excellent post: thank you! I'm a soba addict, and go to Yabu at least once every week or two: had no idea there was anything to equal (let alone exceed) it in LA -- I'll definitely check out Yashima and Bamboo Garden -- any other places I'm missing (for soba specifically -- not ramen)?