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Aug 19, 2008 08:06 AM

Dinners in Rome

I am planning a trip to Italy in October for my honeymoon and will be spending the last three days of the trip in Rome. I figure that we will adventure around the city to find places to eat for lunch but I would like to plan our dinners. I am hoping to plan three dinners in Rome that each show some of the different types of food available. Being as it is my honeymoon, I don't mind is one of the restaurants is a little expensive. The following is a list of some of the places that I have found either through recommendations or through chowhound.

- L’Archeologia
- Ditirambo
- Colline Emilliane
- Il Bacaro
- Il Ciak
- Dal Cavalier Gino
- Trattoria Monte
- Maccheroni

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

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  1. I believe L'Archeologica is on the Appian Way and you would need a taxi to get there at night. We really enjoyed a relaxed sunday lunch there a few years ago as part of a walk down the Appian Way (we also visited some of the Catacombs) - I think I would really want to go there in the daytime so you get to really see the Appian Way and the Roman countryside - I highly recommend the experience.

    1. As Jen says, L'Archeologia, if it's the one I'm thinking of, is better enjoyed when you can enjoy the setting, i.e., lunch or maybe dinner in June when the days are long. Colline Emiliane is great but not Roman. Il Ciak is Tuscan. Monti (not Monte) is mixed Marche-Roman and very good. I'd forget the rest. Conspicuously missing from your list are what I would consider the three main categories: unreconstructed trattoria fare (for which nowadays you sometimes do better at a restaurant, such as Checchino dal 1887, than at a trattoria, but there are many places), the Roman Jewish cuisine (Piperno or Paris), and something upmarket and creative with clear Roman roots (Antico Arco is pretty much a bargain, or Agata e Romeo or Il Convivio if you're ready to spend).

      5 Replies
      1. re: mbfant

        my take on the OP is that she/he is looking for different regional cuisines while in rome - IMaureen but can you comment on whether there is good Italian food from other regions available in Rome (other than colline Emiliane?).
        Id heard that L'Ortica is good for Neapolitan, or Tram Tram for Pugliese, for example.

        1. re: jen kalb

          If that is OP's intent, I would urge revising it. I can't get anybody to go to L'Ortica after one trip years ago. The ambience is like a doll house and the prices very high. It's easier to take a Eurostar to Naples anyway. Tram Tram is only somewhat Pugliese and very idiosyncratic. Good grub if you can stand the lively atmosphere. Again, haven't been in a while. There are some Sicilian places and Sardinian and Tuscan grill, but regional food is not that big really. Milan, in contrast, is chock full of Tuscan trattorias.

        2. re: mbfant

          Oh yes, agreed. Agata e Romeo for the one expensive night. A little rushed service wise, but simply amazing food course after course. The gorgeous room and extensive wine list doesn't hurt either. And thanks to mbfant for recommending it to me in the first place. I was, indeed, a memorable meal that hubby and I both loved.

          1. re: Googs

            I have a decor question about Agata e Romeo. I read a description of the decor that mentioned a display of teapots. Are these antique Chinese teapots? historic European porcelain teapots (e.g. Meissen)? contemporary teapots? I ask since I collect contemporary teapots.

            My husband and I are planning one very high-end dinner and we're torn between an old favorite, Il Convivio, and the more conveniently located Agata e Romeo. Location is not a big deal, but the teapot collection might just be the tie-breaker. Any description would be greatly appreciated.

            Also, if someone can supply the names of artists working in contemporary ceramics, I would appreciate that, too. (Note: I'm not talking about ceramics of the type that can be found in Deruta. There, although each item is hand-fabricated, the craftspeople are simply executing existing patterns on blank ceramic forms. I'm interested in ceramacists who are blurring the line between art and craft and making one-of-a-kind pieces.)

            1. re: Indy 67

              Yes, Agata loves teapots. As far as I can tell, it's just a collection of teapots of various kinds collected over the years, not thematic. I can't describe any specific examples. They are not easy to examine individually, and if you want to talk teapots, it might be better to go for lunch, which is less busy.

        3. I was in Rome last month and ate at both Ditirambo and Coline Emilliane. Ditirambo was good, but nothing too special and certainly not worth it if you have just three nights. Colline Emilliane was very good. There were a few reviews on the board going crazy over their prosciutto, but I didn't think it was anything particularly out of the ordinary.

          Our favorite dinner in Rome was at Palatium (an enoteca), which specializes in food of the Lazio region. Not a hole in the wall, very modern, not a ton of seats and great food. They even handled us (with our toddler) well. I don't think they see very many kids in the place. The cacio e pepe was outstanding as was the chicken dish we had (can't recall the name) which was stewed with olives and peppers. The amatriciana was very very good, too.

          We also had a fantastic lunch at Bir & Fud. They source mostly organic ingredients. We had suppli (which were a little much for the hot day), a great pizza and possibly the best insalata mista I've ever had. Seriously. It was very simple, but all the ingredients (lettuce, carrots, onion, maybe some fennel, olive oil, vinegar, salt & pink peppercorns). They are also open for dinner. Very casual, but fun.

          1. A great place to eat with a great view is the Hotel Atlante Star. We have dined there every time we are in Rome and have not been disappointed. It is a roof top garden restaurant and the view of the Vatican, lit up at night, is fabulous! The food is also! As soon as you get off the elevator they hand you a glass of champagne and after the meal, all the women in our group received a gift of a gold star pendant in a small velvet bag. The food and atmosphere was wonderful!