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Aug 4, 2008 12:06 PM

Scarpetta - My review and it's long

I made reservations for 8:30 on a Thursday night about 3-4 weeks in advance and luckily before Bruni from the Times gave it three stars and everyone in the tri state area ran to get a reservation. And truthfully, three stars it deserves.

The restaurant is absolutely beautiful. You walk in and it's got these huge vaulted ceilings. It's sleek and long and simply elegant. My friend and i were seated in the back room with the skylight. Since it was already dark, there was no natural light but the restaurant was lit beautifully and the glassed ceiling only added to the feeling of airiness in the room. I will agree with other reviewers of this restaurant that i had read and warn future diners, the place is indeed very loud. I strained to hear my companion speak.

The service is very much like any other fine dining restaurant. The servers are attentive and switch your various plates with every meal along with the table ware. But let's get to the good part: the food.

I had read many reviews prior to getting to Scarpetta and knowing how hot it might get, I made sure to order everything my hearts desired and only those dishes I knew would be excellent as i didn't know when i might score another reservation.

The bread basket is great. You get a choice of three but the one that stands out the most is the one with proscuitto rolled into it. YUM! Salty and mealy on the inside, crispy bread on the outside. They give you three condiments. A creamy butter that was like whipped air, an eggplant tapanade (my favorite) and excellent olive oil that had a very light lemony aftertaste.

We started with three appetizers. The creamy polenta had heavy cream and butter folded into it. The corn grains were so fine i wouldn't have known it was polenta in a blind taste test. It was creamy and rich and decadent and comes with a side of mushrooms in some kind of gravy which is poured over the polenta and eaten together. The creaminess of the polenta combined with the earthy more grounded flavors of the mushroom were a perfect marriage.

We also had the appetizer of spare ribs. The portion is in fact very small. Four small slices of meat are presented on top of a beefy flavored orzo. The orzo i was not insane about but let me tell you the spare ribs were perfectly cooked. Slightly pink and fell apart at the touch of my fork and knife. I had read to have the spare ribs with the polenta and just as the mushroom gravy complemented the creaminess of the polenta, the spare ribs did the same thing but with a different textural experience. I wanted a whole plate of the spare ribs.

To cut the heaviness of the other two appetizers, we then had the scallop crudo app. The scallop is raw, cubed and presented with avocados and bits of citrus (i think it was grapefruit). There was just the right amount of acid to bring out the sweetness in the scallop as the avocados brought out the soft texture of the scallop. Scallops were so sweet and tender that it was hard to discern which was the avocado and which was a scallop in your mouth. It was light and airy and tasted of the sea.

For main courses, I ordered one of Conant's signature pasta dish from Alto: agnolotti dal plin, that is little pasta pouches stuffed with ground pork and melted fontina cheese in a sort of butter (or olive oil) and parmesan based sauce. I tell you, those things melt in your mouth upon contact. The filling is VERY light...not as heavy and thick as you would think. The outer pasta surrounding the filling was not doughy at all but the perfect thickness to go with that light creamy filling. I couldn't stop popping them in my mouth! I will go back and have this dish again it was so excellent. We CLEANED that plate.

My friend ordered the calamarata pasta with seafood. Calamarata is essentially round fat pasta that looks very much like calamari. The seafood in the dish was mussles, clams, shrimp and apparently uni (although i didn't see chunks of uni -- supposedly it had melted into the sauce along with the panko breadcrumbs that were apparently in there). This dish was definitely my least favorite of all dishes we had. It was oversalted and lacked any didn't have the "oooo ahhhh" factor the other dishes had once it touched my mouth. It was just very similar to any sort of oil based seafood pasta dish found in any other italian restaurant. My friend and i ended up picking out the bits of seafood and left most of the pasta.

Bonus: accidentally, the waiter brought us Conant's famous spaghetti pomodoro earlier instead of my agnolotti. Because it was a kitchen mistake, we got to have the plate for free. We were both very happy as we both eyed the dish on the menu but opted to pick more "interesting" dishes. The pasta is pretty simple. It's al dente spaghetti tossed in fresh tomato sauce and basil. It was VERY good which was surprising since one would think such a dish would not be so difficult to mimic. Something about that sauce: whether the tomatoes were sweeter than any i've tasted or perhaps it is the olive oil used but the flavors were very vibrant and fresh -- esp compared to the briny Calamarata dish and the more rich Agnolotti. So simple but SO good. My friend gobbled most of that down as i was preoccupied with the agnolotti :)

We washed this all down with a bottle of Rose Prosecco (forgive me but i forget the name of the bottle).

We rolled out of there stuffed.
For those that care, I noted that celebrities are clearly hitting the restaurant so try and get there before the buzz gets even stronger.

The night was absolutely delicious and in my opinion, totally worth the hype.

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  1. timely post.
    deb and i will be there tuesday night. like you, reservations were pre-bruni.
    i'm sure i'll crib most of your recommendations.

    5 Replies
    1. re: steve h.

      And i'd love to hear what you thought after you meal tonight!! enjoy it, it's delicious!

        1. re: il Trifulau

          It came to about $110 for each of us. Total $220. Includes tax and 22% gratuity

          1. re: banjolinana

            Wow! Not bad!

            I spent more than that at that ridiculous Falai place.

            1. re: il Trifulau

              LOL me too!! Falai is def not cheap and the portions (albeit tasty) are teensy.The ambience and restaurant itself is MUCH nicer too at Scarpetta vs. Falai

      1. We dined at Scarpetta for the first time on Sunday evening, and had a very positive experience. Without exception the food (we had the polenta, short ribs, and burrata off the apps menu; the agnolotti and duck/foie ravioli off the primi menu, and the peach crostada and chocolate cake off the dessert menu) was well-executed and delicious, and the service was attentive. Volume in the back room was quite loud, and only grew more so as the evening wore on (we arrived at 9:00PM).

        2 Replies
          1. re: il Trifulau

            Our bill came to about $250, tip included (for three apps, two pastas, two desserts, and a bottle of wine)

        1. Had dinner with my wife and 8 yr old daughter there about a month ago. We sat outside and had the best meal I ate this year. Had frito misto, pea soup, the pomodoro and black and white parfait. After dinner Scott Conant came out and chatted up my eight year old. My wife was swooning. Memorable! Maybe one day a reservation will open up again.

          1. Great review! Like you, we made our reservations pre-Bruni for tomorrow evening. I was already excited. Now I can't wait!

            1. just back from our meal at scarpetta. hats off to banjolinana for orchestrating our meal.

              in a nutshell, i arrived early and sat at the bar. prosecco for one while i read the ft and waited for my wife. the woman behind the bar was pleasant and business-like in a fashion that i respect and enjoy. the physical bar itself is comfortable in an old-school way. i didn't expect that. very pleasant surprise.

              deb arrived close to the appointed hour so drinks were hostess-lifted to our table. we were offered table 12 (left side of the room) and quickly grabbed it. table 12, imo, is the perfect two-top: diners sit at right angles to each other. there's a bump-out that separates you from your neighbors. you can talk about folk here and get away with it. very cool.

              we took a page out of banjolinana's book and ordered three appetizers and two pastas. i ordered the polenta plus the short ribs. deb went with the yellowtail crudo. the waiter smiled and brought extra plates for sharing. my pasta choice was the agnolotti dal plin. deb went with the spaghetti. our wine was a nino negri.

              not to beat a dead horse but the polenta is superb. pair it with the short ribs and you'll have a food memory worth recalling. light, light, light. tasty in the extreme. i would order the combo again in a second.

              deb's yellowtail was both fresh and peppery. i liked it a lot. she loved it. deb feared that the polenta/short rib combo would be too much on a summer's night. nothing could be further from the truth.

              our pastas were spot on. the agnolotti edged out the spaghetti in my opinion. you cannot go wrong with either.

              random thoughts: service was outstanding. both wine advice and food advice were sound. bread was pretty good but did not live up to the hype. i don't use toppings on my bread so i can't speak to the trio offered up. ambient noise level picked up as the night wore on but table 12 has magical qualities that block the sound from bouncing off the hard surfaces to our sensitive ears. espresso: too-full for dessert so i went for a single espresso and deb her usual macchiato. simply wonderful. the barista at scarpetta knows his/her way around espresso.

              all-in-all it was a fun meal. we'll be back.

              1 Reply
              1. re: steve h.

                I am so glad you loved it as much as me! I too could not get enough of the agnolotti and agree with you that it edges out the spaghetti!