Lacrima di Morro
- Robert Lauriston Jul 27, 2008 11:58 AM
I tried the 2005 Luigi Giusti "Rubbjano" Lacrima di Morro d'Alba the other night at Franklin Square Wine Bar in Oakland, CA. I think it was the most aromatic wine I've ever encountered. Intense floral, fruity, and spicy aromas, lemongrass, coffee, passion fruit, vanilla—it was like sticking my nose in a bowl of tom kha gai. Amazing. I've had other Lacrima di Morros before, was never particularly impressed.
This is the middle of the three reds Giusti makes from the grape. I found a bottle at the Wine Mine, $26. The owner said he'd tried several less expensive ones that are available locally but wasn't impressed. It's also in stock at Biondivino (which also has Giusti's rosato and entry-level red) and served by the glass at A16.
This is an obscure indigenous grape grown only in Morro d'Alba, a town on the Adriatic coast in the Marche outside of Ancona, no relation to Lacryma Christi (a Campanian white made from Coda di Volpe), Lacrima Nera (Gaglioppo), or Lacrime di Moro (a proprietary name for a Cannonau made by Moro).
I wonder if this was the same Lacrima I tasted at the Golden Glass, I'll have to dig out my tasting notes. I do remember that even with a desperately fatigued nose and mouth, this wine jumped out at me with a wild burst of scents, and like you I think it was the most aromatic wine I've ever tasted.
Luigi Giusti doesn't show up on the Golden Glass web site, but they weren't exactly on top of providing accurate and timely information on what wines would actually be poured with the printed materials, so I'm not surprised.
There are a few producers who are possibilities, Barone Pizzini/Pievalta, Lombardia & Marche, Marotti Campi, Marche, Poderi San Lazzaro, Marche. I think the one I tasted was available at Biondivino, and Marotti Campi's label looks familiar.
Note that my senses were so swamped by that point of the tasting I can't give much of an endorsement--only that it was quite striking and my impression was overwhelmingly favorable but I don't know if I was in any position to detect subtle flaws after dozens of brunellos and other heavy reds.
I think it was the Marotti Campi Lacrima di Morro D'Alba at Golden Glass.
It's not often that I hear about any still wine, let alone a red wine, going through a second fermentation, but that's what LdM does -- it's begun by
adding partially dried, raisinated grapes (or the must of that) to the already made wine, and that kicks off another ferm and adds some new layers of flavor.
Dunno how I missed this thread. There is a good chance I've had this and never wrote about it. I'll ask Ceri. Maybe I 'll have a bottle this weekend. Thanks for the write up!