535697 Sat Jul 05 10:02:26 -0700 2008 4 3 California 0 3840765 Recently I learned that Greenfield in southern Monterey County has one of the highest concentrations of indigenous Oaxacans on the Central Coast. Conservative estimates start at 4,000 and range to more than 5,000 for the number of Triquis and Mixtecs in this agricultural town of less than 18,000 inhabitants. Naturally this had me jonesing for a visit to try to find some Oaxacan-style eats. My last visit to the area was exactly four years ago, when I regretted not having more time to check out the town. At that time, I did find El Oaxaqueño in Gonzales to the north where the proprietor told me that the area was home to many Oaxacans. El Oaxaqueño, Gonzales (and Greenfield mention), July 2004 http://www.chowhound.com/topics/85899 Dave MP reported last year on the excellent tacos he found at the stand at La Princesa, which sadly, seems to be no more. Dave MP on Tacos at La Princesa Market, February 2007 http://www.chowhound.com/topics/369252 Greenfield was still bubbling up in the back of my mind. When I was invited to participate in a discussion of farmers markets issues here, I was primed for a new look at the town to try to find some Oaxacan specialties. I got in early to have a chance to take a look around before the meeting time. Greenfield is one of California’s fastest growing cities, and it was larger than I remembered with new commercial development on the southside and some infill along the El Camino Real strip as well. My first stop was Martinez Tortilleria y Panaderia. Mostly a grocery store, it does have a small case of donuts and pan dulces baked here. I tried a cupcake dense with cheese ($1). It was on the dry side, and I thought it would be better enjoyed later with a berry sauce. I walked over to La Plaza, a small local chain that operates up and down the Salinas Valley. The selection of baked goods here is far more extensive, as well as offering savories and a place to sit. La Plaza Bakery & Cafe http://www.chowhound.com/topics/535539 At the meeting I learned that the Greenfield Farmers Market opens today, Saturday, July 5, 2008. Hours are 9am to 1pm. The site is Palm Avenue between El Camino Real and 10th (one block north of Oak Avenue, the exit off Hwy 101). This is a grassy and paved shaded area comprising Hicks Park adjacent to the public library and the vacant lot designated as the future home of the Tom Rogers museum. Last year’s attempts at a farmer’s market failed, and considerable work has gone into revamping for a success this year under the newly appointed economic development director, Paul Mugan, and an energetic farmers market manager. Fourteen vendors have committed to the opening, including five local farmers. Unique to this market will be booths from the Triqui community and the Mixtec community offering Oaxacan-style weavings and textiles. I was forewarned that the textile booths might not be ready for the first few weeks. Also, the market’s has applied to accept EBT (food stamps) to make healthy food accessible to a greater part of the community. The application is still pending, but should be in place in the near future. I’m sorry that I couldn’t be there on the first day and would love to hear from anyone who visits this farmers market. I also heard about the upcoming Oaxacan community festival on Sunday, July 13. Here’s the report from last year’s event, http://www.ci.greenfield.ca.us/Oaxaca_2007.htm Afterwards, I cruised the main drag, El Camino Real, and also two side streets to pick my lunch place. Here are links to my posts on lunch at El Molcajete and dessert at Tropical. Lunch at El Molcajete http://www.chowhound.com/topics/535669 Tropical Ice Cream & Deli http://www.chowhound.com/topics/535617 More about what I found along the way later. Slideshow of Greenfield’s chow landscape (click on bottom edge of photos for captions) http://www.flickr.com/photos/melaniewong/tags/greenfield/show/ Isolated by Language: The Indigenous Oaxacans of Greenfield, CA http://journalism.berkeley.edu/ngno/reports/language/ Greenfield information http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Greenfield,_California Sat Jul 05 10:02:28 -0700 2008 10039 Melanie Wong 1 3842490 Thanks, Melanie, for the report. Particularly interesting about the language issues. I had no idea that the central valley has such an enclave of non-English/non-Spanish speakers. Sun Jul 06 10:18:30 -0700 2008 3840765 40270 Ed Dibble 2 3882687 Make that the _Salinas Valley_. (gg) This factoid came up in a talk that Sylvia Panetta did on illiteracy and poverty, and it was a big surprise to me to learn there were so many Oaxacans in Greenfield and the Tri-County area. As you've uncovered with the Oaxacan eatery, Seaside is the center for the Zapotec community. Let me add the Place links for the food businesses I spotted in Greenfield. I'm hoping someone can tell us more about them. Would also love to hear from anyone who has been to the Greenfield Farmers Market. Envios of San Pablo Huixtepec, Oaxaca http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3800/is_200601/ai_n18706128/pg_1 Sat Jul 19 00:21:52 -0700 2008 3842490 10039 Melanie Wong 1 4125548 Two weeks ago I did make it back to Greenfield to check out the Saturday farmers market before the end of the season. This weekend (10/24) will be the last one this year. Three farmstands were supplemented by prepared food vendors, pet bird seller, flower stand, and a purveyor of Oaxacan products. I did ask some of the Mixteca and Triqui ladies present (via an interpreter) whether there were any Oaxacan restaurants in town. No, was the answer, that the community had not yet organized an eating place, which I thought was an interesting way to put it, from a social perspective. I did try a delicious enchilada made with queso fresco and a guajillo-based sauce, and the lady was also selling pozole that she said was Oaxacan style. I also had a delicious agua fresca from a stand with several flavors to choose from as well as raspados. Here are my photos from the farmers market, http://www.flickr.com/search/?q=greenfieldfm&m=tags&z=t (select slideshow to see the captions) Next year they hope to attract more farmers. This has been a vital part of this small town providing a gathering place and community event. Afterwards, mom and went to Taqueria Las Fuentes for lunch. http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/566771 Thu Oct 23 20:48:02 -0700 2008 3840765 10039 Melanie Wong 2 4136929 I found the name of the Oaxacan herb that they encouraged me to taste: Pápalo or papaloquelite porophyllum ruderale. "This distinctively pungent herb is usually eaten raw on cemitas - central Mexico's version of the hero sandwich - and is sometimes found in guacamole and salads. It's name comes from papalotl, Nahuatl for butterfly." The Oaxacan vendor was also doing a brisk business in tlayudas, the enormous dry tortillas stacked and tied up with paper and string in big bundles. Wed Oct 29 13:04:57 -0700 2008 4125548 10039 Melanie Wong