Manuel Antonio/Quepos Costa Rica

[schinagle]

Like a kid who has just returned from the best week at summer camp ever, I was so sad when my visit to this area came to an end. I just can't get accustomed to not seeing monkeys and colorful birds all over the place. Everyone in this area was so gracious, welcoming and kind - even the stray dogs! There were reports of crime in the area, so you still have to be smart about where you are and the hour. Food quality ranges from fabulous to mediocre.

On the fabulous side was Gaia, where host Thomas Farrell was most attentive to all his guests. We had a magnificent dinner,s tarting with a salad with fresh, non-acidic hearts of palm and tuna tartar appetizer were followed by tasty tilapia atop mashed plantains for me and a shrimp, scallop and pasta dish for my husband. My husband usually doesn't like either shrimp or scallops, and he finished every bite. Desserts were a passable (sorry Thomas - but I am honest) chocolate souffle that was a tad dry, but was clearly made with a rich chocolate and a slightly tangy cheese cake (not my taste, but others may love it) with yummy dulce de lece but it didn't matter, because we were so full and just needed a bit of dolce. Ambiance was open air, minimalist Soho chic. Unfortunately for us, we couldn't see the view or surroundings, since it was very dark during our dinner. Guess we will have to go back!

After a hair raising white water rafting experience on the Naranjito River, we had a restorative lunch at Arenas Del Mar. We blasted calories first by climbing the precipitous hill leading to the main lobby/restaurant area, but were treated to seeing a white face monkey family lounging in the mid-day shade. Of course, the guards at the entrance to the resort will take you up the hill in a golf cart if you so request. I had plump grilled shrimp over fresh greens with a pleasant vinagrette. I don't recall what my husband ate, but he ate it all - so it must have been good. They were out of the home made veggie burger and we never got to have dinner there, so I suppose this is another excuse to return to Manuel Antonio. The view at this restaurant is magnificent. It is also open air with a beautiful decor.

My other major favorite - and motivation to return to Manuel Antonio - is Cafe Milagro. This is on the road to Manuel Antonio Beach, diagonally across from Barba Roja [great views - didn't eat the food, so no judgment] between Gaia and Si Como No. Previous review about the cookies was correct - YUM. I LOVED their iced mocha. Great breakfast deal is the 'big boy," consisting of eggs, 2 pancakes, bacon and tasty whole wheat toast for about $6.00. Many hotels include breakfast, but this was worth the extra 'expense'- plus I burned calories climbing the hill from my hotel, and got to monkey watch at the same time. Milagro actually is a coffee roasting company. They own another restaurant in Quepos - I think it is El Patio - that we didn't get to try this time ... but on my next visit....

I only had a snack at the Rico Tico restaurant at Si Como No, and they were thin on their offerings - which were rather expensive. Didn't get to try their restaurants for dinner - yet another excuse to go back.

I understand that Salsipuedes is owned by the same folks as Si Como No. They serve bocas - the Costa Rican word for tapas. Very reasonably priced, and we enjoyed it a lot. Yummy fresh tuna was a treat. Not fancy, down to earth. Would go back again.

Angel is a little lunch shack where I had the traditional Costa Rican lunch of arroz con pollo, frijoles and plantanos - for about $5. Extremely filling. There is also a grill stand by the Manuel Antonio beach that serves a variety of grilled chicken [I had the kebab] that was similarly priced. Personally, after that I have no need for a full dinner.

I studied Spanish at the Costa Rica Spanish Institute (COSI) in Manuel Antonio for a few days, and my teacher took me to her favorite ceviche stand in Quepos right across from the bus station. It was remarkably fresh, but Americans might have issues with eating street food in Quepos - what with the tomato situation in the US, I figured it didn't really matter. Also, I highly recommend COSI for Spanish study. They have immersion programs where you can live with a family, if you are so inclined.

If you can, eat well before going to the airport for your departing flight. The food court in the San Jose airport is, how shall we say this politely, limited.
Happy travels!