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Jun 29, 2008 09:14 PM

Quick Montreal + Quebec City Trip Report

I must say Montreal is pretty close to food nirvana.

We were mighty impressed by the Atwater and Jean Talon Markets.

Schwartz's was every bit as good as my favorite Katz's in New York.

St Viatuer and Fairmount bagels offered a unique toastiness that was quite appealing.

We thought Au Pied de Cochon would be the meal of the trip. After all, what could top the Plogue a Champlain and the Lobster roll with cheddar and foie gras???

Well, Le Club Chasse et Peche did just that with a spectacular meal, perfect service, great wine pairings, everything. The truffle honey granite served with the seared foie gras was a thing of beauty. The piglet risotto with shaved foie gras? Literally melt in your mouth amazing.

Yes, we ate a lot of foie gras. A few photos from those two excellent meals are posted at and I'll be adding more in the coming week or so.

We also had a very nice dinner at Chez L'epicier. And tons of great "glaces" - Bo Bec, Havre aux Glaces, Bilboquet among them.

As for Quebec City.... well, we had a great day on the Ile d'Orleans tasting ciders and cassis and duck and smoked fish. The Marche in the old port had some excellent purveyors. Our hotel was outstanding for breakfast (Auberge St Antoine). And our meal at L'utopie was fun and exciting. Other meals? Not so great. Tourist oriented restaurants are the overwhelming oppressing majority, and even the places our concierge recommended did not much impress.

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  1. Some more photos of the many markets, frites stands, etc. that we visited, from Montreal to Quebec City to L'ile d'Orleans.

    2 Replies
    1. re: biskuit

      Thanks for the trip report-- I am heading to QC soon, and will stay at Auberge St. Antoine as well. I was hoping to get some restaurant suggestions from the concierge as you did (in particular for casual french bistro type places), but see you weren't too impressed. Can you please name the restaurants that disappointed so I can avoid? Also, did you have any memorable foie gras in QC? Thanks!

      1. re: kikimalik

        On the recommendation of the concierge, we ate at L'echaude down the street from the hotel. Not bad, but not especially good either. And a bit pricey.

        We walked by two other spots he recommended and they did not look good, can't recall the names.

        L'utopie is fun if you are adventurous.

        On our own another night, we grabbed a duck salad and pizza at Paillard. The salad was actually excellent (with pistachios, cranberries, etc), but the pizza was mediocre (and the veggie pizza was flat out bad).

        As for foie gras, try to get to Montreal!!

    2. great pics thanks!

      glad you enjoyed your stay.

      1. Great pics and report, biskuit! That tarte au sucre looked awesome, where did you get that?

        2 Replies
        1. re: moh

          We got that at the fruit and vegetable stand that was on the same exit off 15 (heading north towards Tremblant) as the Fromagerie Mirabel (which is marked with a highway sign) I think it is in Saint-Jérôme.

          Not sure who actually makes the pies for them, but it was excellent.

          1. re: moh

            By the way, if anyone wants to see the whole mess of photos from our trip - a large portion of which are food related - you can go to