Mercados and Tianguis of Guadalajara & Tijuana
- kare_raisu Jun 27, 2008 12:04 AM
Could you guys help to add to a list of Mercado and Tianguis in each of these cities?
> Mercado Corona
> Mercado Alcalde
> Libertad / San Juan de Dios
> Mercado des Abastos
> Tianguis of Santa Tere
> Mercado del Mar, Zapopan
> Mercado Hidalgo
> Mercado / Tianguis near Coahuila [streetgourmetla]
location would be helpful too, thanks
The list of Guadalajara tianguis (street markets) could fill several pages. Every colonia has one, at least once a week. Few have names other than the name of the colonia.
The granddaddy of all tianguis in Guadalajara is El Baratillo, held in the eastern part of the city every Sunday. Everything is for sale there, from produce to live animals and from second-hand tools to real antiques.
The same used to be true in Tijuana. Every neighborhood had its tianguis. I don't know if it's still true today. In Tijuana, we more often than not said "mercado sobre ruedas" (market on wheels) rather than tianguis, though. My neighborhood, Colonia Altamira, had the market on Saturday mornings, on Calle Roma.
KR, the Mercado Sobre Ruedas La Coahuila is located on Ave. Miguel F. Martinez between Art. 123 and the fence(Int'l Border).About 4 blocks of pure mayhem, as I desrcibed to you, not unlike the garrisoned city outside Fiddler's Green in John Romero's Land of the Dead.They have menudo, pozole, carnitas frying in cauldrons of fat(yum),quesadillas estilo Michoacan,birria de res, tejuino estilo Nayarit, pizzas Mexicanas made to order(chorizo,tomate, jamon, y chiles), bras, used cellphone adapters,manicures, and by the overfilled dumpster near the Int'l border you can get your hair done at Esteticas Unisex.This place is awsome!
Many of the fine stands seem to be run by Michoacanos.Never had quesadillas estilo Michoacan but they looked different, elongated like a crescent moon and cooked on a comal.Flor de calabaza were among the fillings.
Tianguis comes from nahuatl tianquitzli, which simply means market. Today, it usually refers to a 1.) semi-formal market usually 2.) a street market i.e. conducted in open air, 3.) (usually) a neighborhood market, i.e. serving a restricted, localized community and 4.) (usually) a smaller-scaled market that 5.) convenes on a regular or semi-regular (weekly, or every 10 days etc) basis. It's too complicated to unpack all the meanings here so the above will do for now. In the Philippines, there are many specific words to refer to each other diff types of markets described above: e.g. tabu, talipapa etc. but tiangge is also used in many regions to refer to a regularly recurring open-air semi-formal gathering for the purposes of trading, although today, in the big cities, it simply means "flea market" where one might find tchotchkes, mass-produced clothing, that sort of thing. The Philippine usage quite clearly derives from tianquitzli as well (although the great Filipino food writer Edilberto Alegre once made the mistake of saying that the word comes from Chinese). Foodfirst from the old International Board (who can still be found on the Greater Asia Board) is writing a book on Southeast Asian markets and can tell you more about these diff names/types of Philippine markets. Curiously, the obscure Mexican word tendajon, i.e. a small store, (limited regional usage: I have seen the word used only in small towns in Jalisco and in far-flung parts of Veracruz) seems to have been derived from Filipino tindahan (which in turn comes from Sp tienda + a Filipino suffix that has a locative function: i.e. place where there is a tienda). So "tienda" went to the Philippines and came back to Mexico as tendajon: could this be right?
I have to note that the word has (kinda) passed into the English language: e.g. I have seen signs at more progressive towns (like Berkeley) advertising for instance a "Christmas tiangge at Shattuck". In this case something else is being referred to: a semi-formal (perhaps hastily-convened) temporary bazaar selling (seasonal, non-food, items) in an enclosed space.
Anyway, you guys know about Sabor Que Somos right? Fabulous book on Jalisco gastronomy which has descriptions of all the main markets as well as detailed notes on what one can find at each one of these places + the famous fondas in each one etc etc While searching just now for publ date/ISBN etc to put here, I was shocked to discover that the whole book is available on the web and is completely downloadable:
It is a truly superb book and authrotiative. And exhaustive too: covers everything from cuachala to regional types of birria (one of these days I will write something about the forms that can be found in Chicago), to birote even to escamochas, which I forgot about when I wrote my recent post on "coctel de frutas" (on the Chicago board). Maybe I will add a mention of it later on since it could also be found here in Chicago. GREATbook to take to download and take to the beach tomorrow (July 4)!
Random sample extract from the book (it's about Santa Tere):
El mercado tiene cuatro puertas. Todas reciben a sus clientes con flores de colores, pinole, maiz cocido, tortillas, masa, nopales, frutas y verduras de la temporada. En el interior del mercado, se encuentran los puestos de todos los antojos y hasta los nutritivos. Sobresale el puesto de Las Titas, tan famoso que el famoso cantautor jalisciense Paco Padilla las incluyo en una cancion de estampas pintorescas de Guadalajara y las llamo "las jugosas"...A pocos pasos esta la fonda "Mariquita". atiborrada de clientes en espera de un lugar para sentarse...
(Sorry cannot extract more. The website doesn't allow me to copy and paste. I had to type above)
I know that you asked about Guadalajara and Tijuana, but there are a few in Rosarito that might be of interest.
Every Wednesday, up the hill in Colonia Mazatlan there is a fairly big one - the stalls stretch about a mile along the street.
Also, in Rosarito, there used to be a very large Saturday/Sunday market that was called "The Swap Meet". near the main boulevard Benito Juarez. The city relocated it a few years ago and I'm not sure where.
In Ejido Promo Tapia, about twelve miles south of central Rosarito, they have a tianguis every Saturday and Sunday stretching around two or three blocks near the Catholic church.
k_r, today I visited for the first time the regular Monday tianguis in Playas de Tijuana. It sets up on the south end of the city, two blocks up from the beach on a fairly main north-south boulevard. Although we got there late, the scene was still very busy. Fishmongers and butchers, several produce merchants, an organic health food stand with free consultations with a curandero, a unisex beauty shop and all the other usual suspects, cd vendors, clothing and shoe emporiums and all kinds of food merchants. The only thing I bought today was cheese, an exceptional panela and oaxaca that actually broke apart into thin strings as the girl packed it up.
I asked my friend what was the difference between a tianguis and a swap meet and she told me that a tianguis is expected to have more food products on sale.
re: Gypsy Jan
A friend who grew up in Alaska told of a widespread bartering culture... the Swap Meet there really means Swap Meet people get together to exchange old stuff more than to buy... I love it... so much better for the environment than the consumerism of buying junk, storing it in the garage... throwing it out after a few years etc.,
The tianguis at Ex-Convento del Carmen (Guadalajara) on Sunday (or maybe it's Saturday?) mornings is especially focused on books and art for sale by independent vendors. It's small but one of my all time favorites for people-watching or just hanging out and meeting cool people.