532070 Mon Jun 23 19:44:16 -0700 2008 0 58 Italy 0 3807257 Thanks to all the chowhounds who have written up their Florence tips: they were very useful for our trip in May. We didn’t make it to half the restaurants we wanted to try (Teatro del Sale, next time!), but here’s our two cents on a few places we went: TRE SOLDI (Via G. D’Annunzio 4/a/r): found this originally through Slow Food, and also was highly rec’d by our B&B proprietor. Am surprised there aren’t more recs of this restaurant on the forum—it is really excellent. Perhaps the reason is geography. It is in the eastern part of the city, definitely off the Florence beaten track. (We were staying out in that neighborhood, so it was nearby for us.) Of all the places we ate in Florence, this is the one I wished we could return to several more times—it is absolutely worth seeking out, take the #6 bus if you don’t want to walk. (A very easy bus ride from the center—you can catch it at Piazza San Marco or closer to the Duomo if you wish). No tourists eating there at all. The menu is not completely traditional, but far from wacky. They describe themselves as “cucina creativa su base regionale.” They have a prix-fixe lunch option which was a great deal at 11 euros, with lots of choices. Prices were good overall. The woman making their pasta is a genius—be sure to order pasta or gnocchi. We had: grilled vegetables, penne alla Daniele, salsiccia from the cinta senese pig on a bed of fagioli (perfection), gnocchi in a creamy-cheesy sauce (name eludes me), and veal. Good house red. Service 10% is included, coperto is 1.30/person (not charged if you get the prix fixe). Our lunch for two was 41 euros (one prix fixe, one a la carte, glass of wine & coffee). I’m including all these prices to demonstrate what a good deal this place is for Florence—seek this place out fellow hounds! SOSTANZA: Much written elsewhere on the board re this. There were only five tables lunching in the time we were there—3 tourists, 2 local. We had the tortellini al sugo and a great zuppa di paesana (cabbage-vegetable) to start, then pollo al burro and trippa alla fiorentina, and fagioli. Best dessert we had in Italy, other than gelato—it was a Pavlova with wild strawberries (I think they called it a meringa). Yum. We loved the atmosphere and the proprietor, and liked the food a lot, but it felt just a bit overpriced to me. I know it’s the exchange rate and all—but this is not a fancy place in the least, and I’m not sure I can justify 9 euros for a side of fagioli. (Even when they are excellent.) DA MARIO: Also much written everywhere re this lunch place, which is just outside the Mercato Centrale building. Busy mix of tourists and locals. We had a most eccentric local join us at our table for 3, which was great. Very little English spoken by the staff, despite the tourists, which I liked. We had, at the suggestion of the waitress, tortelli al sugo, which were large and flat and filled with potato. I hit the Italian food wall at that moment and followed with a salad (not too good, but I just couldn’t fit in another Tuscan bite); Mike had the rabbit, lovely. Compared to Sostanza, Mario is much more casual, noisy & bustling, has a fend-for-yourself vibe; Sostanza is a notch above Mario food-wise, but Mario is perhaps a better value. Worth a visit as everyone says. NERBONE (Mercato Centrale): Loved it. Only had the bollito sandwich but will try more things next time. Gelato: we tried several and liked GELATERIA DEI NERI (via dei Neri, 26r) best. Awfully good. CAFFE RIVOIRE: Historic cafe on the Piazza della Signoria. If your feet aren’t too tired from museum-going, try having your cioccolato or espresso while standing at the bar. Ours were 1 or 2 euros—you pay a premium to sit inside or out. No tourists were standing, and you can chat with the bartenders if they’re not too busy. The cioccolato was out of this world—like the best, darkest chocolate pudding ever, turned into a beverage. We’d go back in a second! CANTINETTA DEL VERRAZZANO (via dei Tavolini): Nice little place, centrally located, great stop for snack/sandwich/glass of wine. Also a retail bakery. Done up for tourists, but appealingly. (It is connected with the Castello di Verrazzano winery in Chianti.) Couldn’t stand our English-speaking waiter, who did the obnoxious-as-entertainment New York thing—since we live in New York, I didn’t need to experience this in Florence. Our panini & snacks were great though. Avoid the house red. IL VEGETARIANO: We needed a break from heavy Tuscan meat-eating, but we’d be in no rush to go back here. Didn’t live up to its hype. Sort of interesting to see the crunchy side of Florence, but it was much like the crunchy side of any other city. We had: brown rice with walnuts & mushrooms, escarole torta, seitan, etc. The food was pretty good, but I’d say there’s no particular reason to go unless you’re a vegetarian or having an unmanageable craving for brown rice. There’s more interesting chow and atmosphere elsewhere in Florence. (Fyi, I’m not a vegetarian but often order like one.) PUGI: bakery on Piazza San Marco. Lovely schiacciata, definitely an above-average bakery. In the Mercato Centrale: our favorite shop was Baroni Alimentari. I believe it was Alessandro Baroni who helped us a couple of days in a row. Wonderful man, incredibly enthusiastic about food, delightful. Beautiful selection, ask for recommendations. They carry olive oil, jams, mostarde, cheeses, etc etc etc. Our suitcases were several pounds heavier because of Mr. Baroni... We also liked Perini—their focus is more prepared foods (they also make sandwiches, etc.), and it’s a more hearty-noisy-touristy place. Lots of samples & salesmanship. Mike got a porchetta sandwich that was fabulous. Warning: not sure if it’s real ignorance or willful ignorance, but no one in the Mercato Centrale will tell you that it is illegal to take meat or meat products back to the USA. We were told “it’s okay if it’s vacuum-packed,” which is false. Non-aged cheeses are also not okay—read the regulations or risk the anger of Customs. Mon Jun 23 19:44:18 -0700 2008 185372 tarnation