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Explorations on Brookhurst: Banh Mi Che Cali, Garden Grove

Das Ubergeek Jun 21, 2008 02:58 PM

You have to really want banh mi. Just getting there on a Saturday is aggravating. You exit the westbound 22 at Brookhurst, turn right onto Trask, and wait... and wait... and wait... for traffic to let you through on Brookhurst.

Then you hang a quick left into the parking lot. There's a grocery store, a Cantonese restaurant, Boiling Crab, Banh Cuon Tay Ho, and a bunch of other stores. You circle the parking lot, hoping for parking. Then you circle the parking lot, hoping to find someone to vulture. You finally park, and you head for Banh Mi Che Cali... only to see the line out the door.

Welcome to a little slice of Vietnam in Orange County. While there is technically a line, in reality it's whoever gets to the front and catches the eye of the oh-so-jaded cashier first. It functions as a line but expect to be jostled. Being a large, young, agile white guy is not enough. Those eighty-year-old grandmothers? They are MEAN. They will step on your foot (including the toe you broke playing rugger the other day); they will poke you shamelessly in the ribs. When you react, they will dart past you. They have an advantage: their Vietnamese is faster than yours.

You have to know exactly what it is you want. If you need to inspect the offerings or read the signboards, hang out in the back and do it -- when you get on the line you have to order FAST, like a New Yorker. You can order in English (ignore the put-out eye-rolling that the woman with the cast in her eye gives you). Give her the money and then GET OUT OF THE WAY.

Eventually a bag will be thrust at you. It's always right. I've never had a problem.

Inside that bag... bliss. Hot baguette, made with a measure of rice flour (lightens the bread and produces more "snap" in the crust); garlic mayo; cilantro; chile peppers; pickled radish and onion strips; and your choice of filling.

Get the "dac biet" -- the house special. Try the xiu mai if they have it. Xa xiu (remember, "x" in Vietnamese has the sound of "s" in "simple"; "s" in Vietnamese has the sound of "s" in "sure") is delicious; ca moi (sardines) is also good but they sometimes have filleting issues so chew carefully.

Get back on the line; order che. When you order che, you will step to the left and point out the che you want. Some che is dry-looking -- fear not, they will add coconut milk to it. Anything green-coloured that is not obviously a bean is made of pandan, an aromatic leaf with a slightly floral taste. Anything that looks like a block of Jell-O™ is probably pudding -- orange is mango, off-white is almond. Black streaks are mushrooms (well, fungus anyway) -- this is normal and it is very tasty.

Banh mi are $2; buy two banh mi, get one free. Banh mi on longer baguettes are $2.25 and are not subject to the "mua 2 tang 1" rule. Che is $1.50 each; buy two bowls of che, get one free. Nobody buys one of anything in that store. If you do, they'll stare at you like you just arrived from Planet Myxlpltzk in a dolphin suit.

There are three tables off past the che. Don't bother. Don't EVER eat there. They're there so that the restaurant can say it has tables (this has impact on how they're treated by the government). Take it away and eat it outside. You don't want to be in that steamy, architecturally bankrupt, unbelievably loud place any longer than it takes to get those sublime sandwiches and che.

There are other branches of Banh Mi & Che Cali. The one in Rosemead, on Valley near 888 Seafood, is by far the most accessible to non-Vietnamese. (You stand a chance of being able to ask a question, you can eat inside, and there's an actual line that people respect.) The one on Bolsa and Magnolia is take-out only and there's absolutely no line whatsoever -- push your way to the front and don't be timid. Its saving grace is that the fantastic exotic-flower-and-produce market is six or seven doors west of it in the same plaza. The one on Brookhurst and McFadden is in a standalone building (maybe a former Taco Bell), is marked as Cali Bakery, and has staff so unabashedly abrupt that even I, a guy who grew up in New Jersey and lived in New York, am sometimes taken aback. Cali Bakery also has the worst housekeeping of the branches -- fight the traffic and the parking for the one further north on Brookhurst.

Is it a bit aggravating? Yes, it is. But it's so, so worth it.

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Banh Mi & Che Cali Bakery
8948 Bolsa Ave, Westminster, CA 92683

Banh Mi Che Cali Bakery
13838 Brookhurst St, Garden Grove, CA 92843

Banh Mi & Che Cali
647 W Valley Blvd, Alhambra, CA 91803

Banh Mi & Che Cali Bakery - duplicate
15551 Brookhurst St, Westminster, CA

Banh Mi & Che Cali
8450 Valley Blvd, Rosemead, CA 91770

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    bagdoodle RE: Das Ubergeek Jun 22, 2008 12:11 AM

    My favorite is the one at Brookhurst and McFadden. Although both have gotten considerable favorable commentary, I don't think either Lee's Sandwiches (several branches) or Banh Mi Cho Cu (Magnolia and Hazard) are as good.

    1 Reply
    1. re: bagdoodle
      Das Ubergeek RE: bagdoodle Jun 22, 2008 07:18 AM

      Cho Cu is inconsistent, is the problem -- on their best days they blow away Cali, but then there are days when they absolutely just phone it in.

      The food at Brookhurst and McFadden is fine, but the staff -- even as a "D-type" atmosphere place, they're just plain rude.

    2. e
      exilekiss RE: Das Ubergeek Jun 22, 2008 07:28 AM

      Hi Das Ubergeek,

      I LOVE your reviews; they're so humorous, informative and so true! (^_^) In the OC, I've only visited the one on Brookhurst and McFadden and like you, I was really taken aback by the brusque "service." But it was good.

      I'll definitely have to go to the one up a block like you said and try that one out. You have me craving Banh Mi again, sigh... :)

      1. e
        exilekiss RE: Das Ubergeek Jun 22, 2008 07:31 AM

        Oh I forgot to ask:

        Do you know what the hours are for the Che Cali you normally go to? (the one nearest the 22 on Brookhurst.)

        1 Reply
        1. re: exilekiss
          Das Ubergeek RE: exilekiss Jun 22, 2008 08:39 AM

          Hm... I don't know, I'm sorry! I've never gone at an odd time... my destination for a banh mi at 0400 hours has always been Banh Mi Cho Cu...

        2. JAB RE: Das Ubergeek Jun 22, 2008 11:19 AM

          Funny, yesterday, we went to Cho Cu for the 1st time and while fine, didn't make me want to stop going to my regular haunt Che Cali that's in the old Taco Bell on Brookhurst. In fact, we went there directly from Cho Cu and I definately prefer it. I've never had any real service problems there.

          1. choctastic RE: Das Ubergeek Jun 23, 2008 05:45 AM

            I've eaten inside many a time and never thought it was that loud or bad in any way at all. I love that place. But then i always love converted Taco Bells. I love Haru Bang on Beach too, but then the food is also good so that helps.

            Cho Cu is not my favorite either. I am still a Che Cali fan. Cho Cu had some consistency problems for me. After some bland, lukewarm meatball sandwiches, I haven't been back.

            1. Foodandwine RE: Das Ubergeek Jun 23, 2008 07:03 AM

              Das.. Great write up. I am going to be in that area today and will get some Banh Mi for Lunch. Am I correct in understanding that you like the location closer to the 22 (13838 Brookhurst ) over the old Taco Bell location at Brookhurst and McFadded. Is there actually a difference? Thanks..

              2 Replies
              1. re: Foodandwine
                Das Ubergeek RE: Foodandwine Jun 23, 2008 08:45 AM

                I think the sandwiches are slightly better from the location closer to the 22, plus there's better stuff in that plaza if you're not just going for banh mi.

                1. re: Das Ubergeek
                  Foodandwine RE: Das Ubergeek Jun 23, 2008 08:48 AM

                  Das, Thanks for the fast reply.. I just hope that I dont get pushed around by the Viet Grandmas.. I going today. Thanks..

              2. Foodandwine RE: Das Ubergeek Jun 23, 2008 03:09 PM

                Das, This was my second time to a Banh Mi spot, last time Abby of Pleasure Palate had written a reveiw about Banh Mi Cho Cu and I was delighted with that place. My Gosh Banh MI & Che Cali is so over the top I cannot give enough praise. I walked in around 11:30 this morning with a cheat sheet in hand:
                Dac Biet
                Xiu Mai
                Ca Moi
                Ca Phe Su Dat.
                Gave the sheet to the the cashier and
                The NICE Lady said $6.00, gave me my Ca Phe Su Dat on the spot and pointed with the Finger to wait! ( perhaps she thought a local had sent me here and provided some International Goodwill ) So, I waited a few minutes, then with a SMILE she gave me my bag. Wow, I scarfed the Meatball down so fast, it was so good. The combination special and the sardine was equally as good but I only ate 1/2 of each, balance for dinner.. ( I brought a cooler) The Warm, Flavorfull contrast of warm meat ( meatball ), cool and crisp veggies and crisp bun was so good I was in heaven.. I went back and ordered a Goi Cuon ( spring rolls ) and Banh Bo Nuong ( some green spongy cake with the taste of coconut) to add to my order. This place is so cheap I have breakfast, lunch and dinner for less that $10. A true cultural experience for a guy from Manhattan Beach..Thanks for the tip I will be back for sure. I did go to the one closer to the 22 and it was just as you had reported minus the Grandmas, foot stomping and grins. Perhaps they were playing BINGO today..

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                  pharmnerd RE: Das Ubergeek Jun 23, 2008 08:03 PM

                  Funny stuff...and very true. I usually send the wife into Che Cali, as I'm too much of a wuss to battle the patrons and staff. With all the sidewalk vendors, would imagine feels not too different than 'Nam.

                  5 Replies
                  1. re: pharmnerd
                    d
                    david t. RE: pharmnerd Jun 24, 2008 04:14 AM

                    About the different branches of Che Cali, do you know if they are actual branches of the same deli on Brookhurst? Because something tells me they aren't. Much like Pho 79, having the same name can mean absolutely nothing. There is no such thing as name ownership when it comes to Little Saigon.

                    1. re: david t.
                      choctastic RE: david t. Jun 24, 2008 07:02 AM

                      The bun bo hue joint a block down from the brookhurst store is owned by the same people (family? I forget) as is the magnolia store. they also own a couple of other joints around town. I have asked that question several times and that is the answer I conssitently get.

                      1. re: choctastic
                        Foodandwine RE: choctastic Sep 27, 2008 05:25 PM

                        Has anyone been to a Bahn Mi place better than Bahn Mi Che Cali. Have an itch and will try tomorrow..

                        1. re: Foodandwine
                          Das Ubergeek RE: Foodandwine Sep 29, 2008 08:24 AM

                          I like Che Cali but there are better sandwiches. Cho Cu, for example, when it's "on", is way better, and Zon Baguettes has excellent sandwiches but they're much, much more expensive.

                          Get the baguette, though, rather than the roll -- it's a better sandwich (in my OH-so-humble opinion) even though it's 25c more expensive.

                          And get three bowls of che (same deal, buy 2 get 1 free) to try at home.

                          1. re: Foodandwine
                            n
                            ns1 RE: Foodandwine Sep 29, 2008 09:06 AM

                            There's also a Banh Mi Che Cali on Harbor/First.

                            I had good dac biet sandwiches (yesterday in fact) at the sandwich shop across from mile square park, next to the old KBBQ (sorry the name escapes me)

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                      ExtraCheesePlease RE: Das Ubergeek Sep 29, 2008 09:27 AM

                      Was just down in Little Saigon yesterday and stopped by the Banh Mi Che Cali on Brookhurst and McFadden. The line was ridiculously long and we waited for at least 20 minutes to get our banh mi's but it was worth it. You're so right when you say the counter people have attitude. My friend couldn't decide and she yelled at him and then two people shoved past him. LOL. Banh Mi Che Cali is heads and shoulders above Lees.

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