For GREAT Italian in a casual setting, try Lenny's Pizzeria & Restaurant in Lavalette (406 Highway 35). They've been there for over 25 years, and the food is fantastic. It will be our first stop (as always!) when we come out to visit in August.
I agree about the Atlantic, but within the OP's Route 35 corridor the only place that might fit the description is probably the Labrador Lounge. I haven't been in a long while, but the menu still looks interesting. Here's a link: