Pizzeria Bianco Trek: 3 Must Order Pizzas
I'm making a trip to Tucson through Phoenix, mostly so the two of us can go to Pizzeria Bianco. I've looked at the menu online and have eyes for the wise guy and sonny boy. I love fennel sausage so I figure any pizza with it is a must try.
What are your favourite pizzas here? Do you go with the off the menu ones or do you create your own?
Thanks for your suggestions.
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re: Tom June
Last Thursday, my gf and I drove from L.A. to Phoenix on our eventual way to Tucson for the 4th. After killing some time at the Biltmore pool and really fun waterslide, we headed over to PB to get in line. We arrived at 4p and were slightly surprised at the number of people already in line. I thought 4p would put us near the front. The wait until 5 wasn't bad at all. The people around us in line were very friendly and interesting to talk to, but it was too hot in the semi shade of the trees. We went over to the lawn and played cards and had a couple of pints in the shadow of Bar Bianco.
Unfortunately, we were about 5 people away from making the first seating, so we went into the bar and waited there until shortly after 6. We were finally seated around 6:15.
Our plan was to order 2 pizzas and then order a third after receiving the first two. The waiter made this seem like a tall request and something they couldn't do given the number of people waiting for a table. After this thread and talking to the table next to us, all too willing to give us recommendations, we knew we wanted the Wise Guy and Sonny Boy. For the third pizza, we were stuck between the Bianco Verde and the Rosa. I like arugula but I'm not a diehard fan, and even though I like rosemary, I didn't want a pizza dominated by this pungent herb. After consulting with our waiter, he said, why don't we do half Rosa half Bianco Verde? Sold! I didn't think this was the kind of place that would do this.
We received the Sonny Boy and Wise Guy first. They were both delicious; I would give the slight edge to the Sonny Boy. The olive and salame combination was heavenly. What is great is that they are not stingy with the sausage and salame toppings, so I was able to add little pieces of salame to the wise guy and sausage to the sonny boy. I thought both additions took the pizzas to another level, moreso with the wise guy as the salame cut through some of the smokiness and added a tang.
I enjoyed both the BV and Rosa but not as much as the first two pizzas. I'd pick the Rosa between the two. It somehow works and the rosemary is mild and almost imperceptible. The crushed pistachios add almost a meaty quality to it. Both of these pizzas were also helped by some salty pork additions from the WG and SB.
Not yet mentioned here are the Gaeta olives on the SB. These were limited to about two chunks per slice and were absolutely delicious.
Thinking about a return visit, I might order a marguerita with olives for one pizza, a sonny boy, and then either a wise guy or a rosa with sausage.
I thought the crust was great--light and airy but more substantial than some wood fired thin crust pizzas that more resemble a flour tortilla. The proportion of toppings and sauce to crust was ideal. The blistering and overall cooking of the pies were both spot on. Last and certainly not least, the staff and patrons of both Bar Bianco and PB were the friendliest and most genuine I've ever encountered in a restaurant or bar. I felt like I was at a dinner party at a friend's house.
The closest comparison I have to PB is Pizzeria Mozza in Los Angeles. For crust, PB wins by a hair, mostly because Nancy's outer crust ring can be almost 2 inches across in places. Both crusts are very similar after that--airy without being a cracker, cooked beautifully in scorching hot wood burning ovens.
For toppings, PB wins overall but PM wins for their fennel sausage, the best by far I've ever had.
For the interior space: PB wins easily.
For best pizza vs. best pizza--PM wins because I have a thing for a taste of fennel on pizza and I've never had a better sausage pizza than PMs with panna, red onion, fennel pollen and sausage.
Clientele and Staff--PB wins in a blow out. The staff is nice at PM but they don't bring me back like the PB staff does. They seem genuinely happy to be there and serve people that are genuinely happy to be there.Thank you everyone for the recommendations.
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re: Wolfgang
Wolfgang,
Thanks for the great write-up and review.
RE: Mozza v. Bianco. I have to disagree a bit here. While I agree with you that Bianco has a better crust (in fact, I think the Bianco crust is by far better than what Nancy can churn out), I think Nancy overdoes it with the olive oil on some of her pies.
Although I must admit, the egg and guanciale pizza at Mozza might be the closest thing to food nirvana for me.
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They're all good, and we all have our favorites. Mine? Not particularly relevant; it will change on any given visit. I post now for one reason: yes, order anything, everything, but don't hold back, eat it all if you can. The truth is that Bianco pizza, like most artisan, small-diameter, hot wood oven, slightly charred bubbled crust pizza should be consumed at once and not held or reheated; then it becomes inferior and disappointing. The best pies the next time around are sturdier and perhaps more pedestrian on the first go-round. Especially in a busy place that turns over lots of pies and may have young, inexperienced personnel manning the oven, which is open all too often, and the phone is ringing -- a recipe for underdone pies. Sometimes, often, these are the best leftovers, with these restrictions: wrapped immediately in aluminum foil, frozen and then baked at around 400 in the same foil, 25-30 minutes, 24 hours to 24 weeks later. Cold pizza the next morning? College stuff -- not good, (awful!), imho uncivilzed and a waste of good pizza and insult to the original -- like eating a tepid pool of melted ice cream. Microwave? Fugedaboutit. So, wastlines and decorum aside, your pies from Bianco, Cibo, Grazie, Classic Italian (and maybe Humble -- haven't tried it yet) must be devoured on the spot. They never will be nearly as good after that.
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When I went last year with a party of five we ordered "everything" on the menu. Of the pizza's the Margherita and Rosa was my favorite. But honestly I'm nitpicking even trying to choose. They were all wonderful and unique in there own way.
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re: oysterspearls
Even if it's just two of you, order at least three different pizzas and split them, as we found the left-overs still taste amazing the next morning. The Biancoverde (mozzarella, parmigiano, ricotta, arugula) particularly left an impression on me. There is a picture of it here which makes me want to board the next available flight to PHX:
http://www.yelp.com/biz_photos/pSQFyn...
Additionally, we really enjoyed the appetizers (and wine) from Bar Bianco while waiting.-
re: rlm
When we went a couple of months ago, our party of 6 ordered everything on the menu. I agree with rlm, order more than you think you can eat and bring the leftovers home. The fennel sausage is amazing (and of course homemade) so definitely try that. The hands-down favorite at our table was the Rosa which not one of us was expecting. It's a unique combination of ingredients that works. Our least favorite was the biancoverde (although still very good). Have a great time and enjoy :)
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Wise guy is awesome. If you like sausage then this is a can't miss.
My personal fav in the create your own category is the marinara with anchovies.
but since you're making a trek, becareful to check their website (http://www.pizzeriabianco.com/index2....) for closed dates. For instance, they're actually closed next tues through thrus (6/17 - 6/19)
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Pick up a copy of the current Wine Spectator (June 30, 2008) for a great article on pizzas around the nation that includes Bianco. It says the Rosa, made with crushed pistachios, is Chris Bianco's favorite. But I don't think you can go wrong no matter what. Wise Guy is great, too.
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