mom and pop places in rome...
hi... i am in rome.... and will be here for the month of june... working on a film.. i am staying on via guila near the porte principe... and i am looking for some good "mom and pop" style places for lunch and dinner... good food and good prices... i am open to upscale also... but trying to stay away for the tourist traps.... can anyone help me?
We took VVVindaloo's advice and ate at Le Naumachie near the Colosseum for lunch. It was very good. The fried zucchini flowers were the best we had in Italy; they were fried in an almost yeasty, fluffy batter. I had a delicious 4 cheese pasta as a main. It was a nice environment and did not feel "touristy" in the least.
We stumbled upon our best meal in Rome by chance. We were looking for dinner near the Piazza Navona, and all of the restaurants in the area recommended on this site were not open (owners must begin their vacations in late July, not August). We walked by Ristorante Tre Archi, on Via dei Coronari, 233, and were drawn in by the menu.
After the simple antipasti platter of grilled vegetables, I had orecchiette with broccoli. It was, I believe, what the dish is supposed to be: it was not filled with florets and red pepper flakes, but instead had chunks of stalk that were so tender that, combined with parmesan cheese, melted into an almost-sauce. The pasta itself was fresh (not dried, obviously handmade). It transformed the way I think about the dish.
For the secondi, I considered the fried brains and zucchini flowers, but opted for gratineed sardines. Again, the preparation was simple, but was absolutely sublime (see the attached before and after). I can't recall what my husband had, though he was very pleased with his. I recall him being disappointed, however, that the ktichen was out of rabbit dish on the menu that he had wanted to try.
The restaurant did not have outside seating, and was therefore not incredibly busy (it was a hot July night). The meal was not expensive, depsite being in a very touristy part of Rome. There was perhaps one other table of non-Italians. I would highly recommend it for what I thought was a very authentic taste of Roman cuisine.
we went to augusto in the trastevere area.... it was crowded.... but lots of romans... we had a great meal... very reasonable... good pre-made dishes... pollo romano.... osso buco.... lamb cacciotore.... stewed veal... etc... etc... not the spot for good grilled sardines.... or light food... but good mom and pop hearty food... great bread... pasta.... and stewed meats....
You absolutely have to try a restaurant called ''Le Naumachie" on via Celimontana,7.
The prices are extremely reasonable, very friendly fmily oriented style restaurant and every time I go to Rome, I look forward to going there. I am Italain American and go with relatives who are from italy and they love it too. You have to try the papardelle, thick noodles --and they are made from scratch not from abox--absolutely delicious.
It is within walknig distance of the colesseum so if you google it, im sure you can find it on a map--and remeber most restaurants in italy are closed for the month of August
Le Naumachie is a very good option for a non-touristy meal in a very touristy area of Rome. It is quite popular with Romans who live in the area. I had a delicious lunch there one afternoon, shortly after having my photo taken with a gladiator. He bent down on one knee and proposed to me just as my friend took the picture- my expression makes this one of my personal favorite photos of all time.
here is a small list of what we have found so far....
"da giovanni" - 41a via della lungara (06-686-1514) on the trastevere side of the river near the ponte mazzina... it is very small.. maybe 8 tables? all inside... a little hot on a warm night... the 4 of us had 2 pastas, spaghetti al sugo and a mushroom ravioli... 1 calfs liver, grilled fish, salads, salami, a bottle of red wine and it was only 45 euros for the whole bill!!! the food was good but not really stellar... but an amazing bargain... they are closed on sunday..
"da corrado" - via delle felicia in trastevere (06-580-6004) closed sunday also
another very small and only inside seating... very basic but the food was great... momma cooks in the kitchen for the lunch crowd... then the sauces are saved for the dinner... no written menu... great pastas and meat dishes.... also very reasonable...
"acchiappafantasm" via dei coppellari 66 06-687-3462 ( near the campo de fiori)
this place has a funny name 'ghostbusters" but it was very, very good!!! a calabrese rest. the staff are very nice.. the pizzas are stellar... we liked them better than "da baffetto" a very nice super thin crust... and they have a nice very spicy house made sausage... we had a great octopus salad with endive and celery.. lemon olive oil etc... very nice... also had a interesting pasta... fettucini with tuna roe, black truffle and lemon zest... and maybe a taste of cumin? it was delicious...
"maccheroni" piazza del coppelie 44 (06-6830-7895) just above the piazza navona
a very trendy and bustling place... open every day... but a very nice pasta gricia... and a good grilled steak over arugula... also good starter plates..
"guilo passsami l'olio" - via di monte giordano 28 (06- 6880-3288) - a very nice small wine bar close to the castle st. angelo... great selection of wine and good food also...
"l'angolo divino" - via dei balestrari 12-14 (06-6864-413)
another very nice small wine bar... it is just south of the piazza farnece... massino the owner is very nice and he has a incredible selection of great wines... we had a nice salami plate... grilled fillet steak... a delicious lasagna made with a super thin unleavened bread and pecorino cheese... some nice sautéed zuchini... etc... etc...
it sounds like you are eating quite well, so far. I used to really like acchiappafantasmi, too. I haven't been there in ages. L'angolo DiVino is great- I'm glad you found it. Since you seem to be into wine, I suggest you also try Bar del Fico (behind Piazza Navona).
I look forward to hearing about anything else you might find :)
Lucky you. Have you found Osteria ar Galletto yet? They serve the best cacio e pepe in the centro storico, bar none. It's a family-run operation on the far corner of Piazza Farnese (approaching from via Giulia) at vicolo del Gallo. It will be mobbed by your neighbors at lunch, and there is good reason why.
EDIT: oh, i forgot to mention my one issue with this place... the owners are rabid Lazio fans.
I'd also love to hear about any of your finds. I used to live on via Monserrato and will be back in the 'hood before long, I'm sure :)
A lot of recs here:
Over the Ponte Sisto bridge in Via Ponte Sisto in Trastevere, you will find the "Antica Trattoria Trilussa". Some further down in the same area in Via Dei Genovesi you have "Le Mani In Pasti", and nearby at Piazza Di Sant'Egidio is "Trattoria Degli Amici".