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Frank Pepe Clam Pie: with/without Mozzarella?

Planning on a pilgrimage. So, white sauce, with or without Mozzarella? And how about Bacon with the clams?

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  1. I've been wanting to make the pilgrimage too - do report back!! Just have to convince my husband it's worth the gas.

    1. When ordering the White Clam, you should do so without the Mozzarella. Bacon is a decent add-on, but if you have never had the Clam Pie before, trying a small one without additional adornment would be the way to go, IMHO. Maybe half with bacon and half without if you don't think you will be able to visit again anytime soon for comparisons sake.

      1 Reply
      1. re: FoodieJim

        Thanks. I was leaning to no Mozzarella, but wanted to hear from the experts.

      2. I totally agree with FoodieJim's post. No scamotz. Try it once without bacon, it really needs no adornment.

        1 Reply
        1. re: cheshirecat

          scamotz is actually scamorza, precurser to mozzarella, america pizza cheese. lots of pizza makers used to use it - especially in bridgeport

        2. Never cheese, always bacon.
          Get a cheese and bacon pie also, and never larges, always smalls and lots of them!

          1. Hate to say it, but NO cheese. It pains me.

            Gary Bimonte says so here too. Great guy. Years ago on the way back from Lowell,
            I stopped in New Haven, and he and I got into a conversation where he revealed to me their intentions that Pepe's was going to become somewhat of a franchise. At first I thought this would surely compromise Pepe's pizza as we presently know it, but fortunately for us, the quality still remains the same as always. I still enjoy the New Haven locations most, and hopefully the Pepe Pizza legacy will carry on and continue to produce quality pizzas for many years to come.

            Gary discourages cheese (I still respect the guy).
            Look --> http://link.brightcove.com/services/p...

            4 Replies
            1. re: Cheese Boy

              Yes I must concur Cheese Boy - no cheese! But having several locations is not the same as franchising. May Pepe's never sink to that unfortunate level.

              1. re: thos

                Thos, that's what I found most unsettling during our whole conversation. He used the word 'franchise'. If Pepe's becomes a *true* franchise, I hope it doesn't prove detrimental to their "flagship" stores.

              2. re: Cheese Boy

                Cheese boy, do you have any idea where these so-called franchises will be? I am not sure whether to be happy, anxious, or horrified.
                I do hope that he meant "franchise" as in, "off-shoot".

                1. re: vvvindaloo

                  I don't know, but I would guess that eventually Pepe's would be willing to try their luck and expand nationally. When I heard "franchise", to me it implied that people would be buying into the company. I suppose Pepe's stands to make a lot of money going this route and I can completely understand why they would even consider doing so [offering franchises]. Pepe's is fairly well known, (national acclaim) and I would say that this is true thanks in part to the many graduates of Yale. Many grads return home and wish they had a Pepe's back in their home state or in close proximity. Reminiscent of *their* days at Yale, surely the Clinton's wouldn't mind having a Pepe's Pizza somewhere in Westchester, Manhattan, Arkansas, or DC.

                  Hey, perhaps one day it will happen, and right now only time will tell.

              3. No cheese, no bacon; let the clams and garlic serenade you. I only get back to New Haven for weddings and funerals, which gives me conflicting hopes for my next clam pie!

                1. Never any cheese....bacon on a second pie......and remember to take two clam pies home.

                  1. I couldn't agree more heartily with those who recommend the bacon pie. I actually really like the clam pie both ways: with mozzarella and without.
                    I'll never forget the time that Mrs. Pepe (as I knew her then) came down to visit my grandmother and all of their cousins...
                    She brought 14 pies with her.
                    Don't hate me.

                    1. On a related note, I believe that squeezing lemon over the white clam pie makes all the difference -- it changes the dish from an interesting acquired taste to a plainly transcendent experience.

                      1. Bacon makes everything better. Having said that, I would recommend that you order your white clam pie au naturel, sans moots or bacon. That's the way the Gods intended it to be.

                        4 Replies
                        1. re: Jimmy Cantiello

                          If you want to try the Pepe's in Manchester I suggest you do it sooner rather than later.

                          1. re: sodagirl

                            Sodagirl, your posts are generally right on the money. Please elaborate on "sooner rather than later". I visited this place once and found the pizzas quite delicious and I would definitely return. However, in the back of my mind I kept thinking that there are far too many restaurants around the Manchester mall already competing for shrinking disposable income and wondered myself (not knowing the type of rent these establishments pay) if Pepe's could survive here.

                            1. re: kneerobber

                              No to the cheese, bacon makes everything better, but I like it as it comes, clams, garlic, oil...

                              1. re: kneerobber

                                sorry for the dealy...travelling

                                I never judge business by a Friday or Saturday night...at the mall if you are not full for lunch and dinner...at least one turn 7 days a week...it will not cover overhead.

                                For a chain...the Frank Pepee's product quality is still pretty good. They did cut using Calabro...which is not fresh Mozz.

                                (Frankly, to be completely accurate... fresh Mozz in this country is just plain, white cheese curd...go to Wisconsin and have a bowl)

                                Rent, overhead plus volume are not adding up...staff is itchy and some are overworked. It gets out.

                                (Ate hot dogs and fries last week at Essies Original in Pittsburgh...look it up)

                          2. OK, now to the followup: Small, Medium, Large -- what is the equivalent of each in standard NYC pizza slices? That is, will a small feed 2, or is it like one or two slices of regular pizza?

                            9 Replies
                            1. re: sbp

                              Always go with at least a medium. The large would be even better.

                              1. re: sbp

                                Never order anything but smalls. Large pies get soggy and are more difficult to handle.

                                1. re: CindysFarmStand

                                  But the large ones have a more favorable ratio of "stuff"- to -crust. And getting the saddle-shaped "bend" to a 12 inch radius slice in order to support it's weight is an art form that pizza connoisseurs take years to perfect. Plus when you're really hungry and that large one is delivered to your table ansd even though it may be twice what you will eat, it looks so pretty...

                                  1. re: Veggo

                                    Yeah. I'm with you. I love them soggy in the center and difficult to handle. That's the "pie" part, as far as I'm concerned.

                                    1. re: Veggo

                                      We average about 4 pies for 2 people so there's plenty to eat! Not into soggy pies and New Haven pies aren't cooked hot, only about 650-700. Large pies are reserved for places that bake 900+ degrees(New York).

                                      1. re: CindysFarmStand

                                        900 degrees??!! That's 38% higher than the melting point of lead, and more than half the melting point of bronze. No wonder I burn the roof of my mouth so often eating pizza!

                                          1. re: Veggo

                                            yeah, but those lead pies are terrible

                                            1. re: hyde

                                              A little bland and heavy, true, but anchovies really make them sing.

                                  2. Definitely get it without cheese - Traditional Italian cooking does not pair seafood with cheese. Besides, you don't need it anyway, the Pepe's clam pie is that good!

                                    1. I was skeptical about clams and cheese but it actually works, in this case, to abandon all reason and pair seafood and cheese. Without cheese is also delicious and (am I the only one??) with tomato and cheese is great too . . .

                                      A small is about 2 slices of NY style pizza, a medium feeds two and leaves them aching for a bit more . . . Take-out smalls are smaller, and, of course, the sizes vary.

                                      1. we did it recently no bacon no cheese..one slice was enough..this is very rich pizza..I did not love it..the others had pepperoni. VERY greasy...

                                        1 Reply
                                        1. re: luci

                                          Late to post here...but....mozz on a white clam pie can only be described in one word - blasphemous!!!!!
                                          Veggo has it right -clams, oil, garlic....and maybe a dusting of parmegiano..
                                          ...finish it off by a squeeze of lemon!

                                        2. OK, I'm back. Great experience. Got the White Clam - no bacon, no cheese. It was amazing. Crust was chewy, crispy, charred - perfect. The topping was seriously garlicky and herby, and the clams were tender, fresh and perfect. Like a Buffalo chicken wing, it's a perfect combination of flavors, textures. I wouldn't mess with it.

                                          Also had pepperoni pie and sausage pie -- for the non-clam eaters with me. Both were excellent, though much more familiar as a well made variant of the traditional New York slice. By that I mean the cheese was not the "pure" very white mozzarella you see "spotted" on a lot of artisanal Pizza's nowadays. It was clearly that slightly creamy/orangey pizza cheese that was liberally scattered all over the pie. However, the crust, sauce and pepperoni were clearly superior to most of what you get in NY. The pepperoni was particularly interesting. Randomly thick and thin slices of pretty spicy stuff -- it also benefitted from the intense heat in that some slices were barely heated through, others were very well caramelized, and some were burnt. Made for some tasty contrasts.

                                          The sausage was similar in concept to the pepperoni, but was very homemade tasting sausage; heavy on the fennel. Also delicious.

                                          17 Replies
                                          1. re: sbp

                                            Glad to hear that you enjoyed it. This thread started a craving I couldn't resist, so I took my 10 year-old to the Manchester branch for her first ever White Clam pie. She is now a convert.

                                            1. re: sbp

                                              Just for the record, the moots on Pepe's pies is not your normal shredded cheese. They use slices.

                                              1. re: Jimmy Cantiello

                                                without for sure

                                                if you are going for the 'with sauce' get your keyster to Modern in NH and get the clam pie/bacon and make sure you get the world's best rootbeer with it

                                                1. re: Jimmy Cantiello

                                                  I had the clam without, so I can only speak for the pepperoni and sausage. It was definitely better quality than your typical pizza cheese, but clearly not slices of fresh mozzarella. The fresh stuff doesn't melt into a goo that coats the whole surface of the pie evenly -- it sort of just softens so that if it was sliced, you can still make out the rounds. Fresh mozzarella also is very white on the surface of the pie. The Pepe's was not bright white, very evenly melted over the whole pie, and very melted. For a pepperoni/sausage pie, that's preferable to the whole milk fresh mozzarella -- which has a delicate milky flavor that can't stand up well to so much spice.

                                                  1. re: sbp

                                                    You are correct. Pepe's does not use fresh mozzarella on their pies. I didn't mean to imply that at all. All I was saying is, unlike other pizza joints that use the shredded variety of moots, Pepe's moots is placed on the pizza in slices. And yes, it does end up melted evenly over the whole pie. Next time you're there watch how they put the pies together and you'll see what I mean.

                                                    1. re: Jimmy Cantiello

                                                      JC,

                                                      You are correct. Frank Pepe's uses slices of low moisture mozzarella to cover their pies, not shredded mozzarella . I do not recall if they even offer fresh mozzarella for a Margherita Pizza Pie. I would defer to others for that answer.

                                                        1. re: Jimmy Cantiello

                                                          Thanks Jimmy. I've often wondered about Pepe's cheese. It doesn't turn out tasting like basic shredded mozzarella, but it's clearly not fresh either. I never thought to get up and watch . . .

                                                          For the record, Modern offers a Margherita with fresh mozzarella, but it's not. At least, not when I ordered it!!

                                                          And sbp, I really love that fennel taste in the sausage too - none of the other NH places have a sausage that compares.

                                                          1. re: zoe p.

                                                            Very interesting stuff about the cheese. I suppose it's the low moisture which accounts for the meltability compared to fresh. And you are right about the sausage -- I can't recall ever having a pizza (until now) with a really good, rustic, sausage. They all tend toward bland, or come either crumbled like salad bar bacos (which seems to be a West Coast style) or sliced in ultra thin rounds where it's hard to distinguish from meatball pizza.

                                                            1. re: zoe p.

                                                              Zoe, click on this link and you'll see that the cheese is in slices (at 2:37). Definitely a lo-moisture cheese otherwise the pizza would be a drippy mess.

                                                              Link ---> http://link.brightcove.com/services/p...

                                                                1. re: Cheese Boy

                                                                  Thanks for the video!! You do get a few nice glimpses at the cheese slices. And Cindy, I'm sorry I never got to try a pie with Calabro cheese.

                                                                  And I'm also sorry I have to disagree with Mr.Bimante. Pepe's Pizza is (not to be crass) actually like sex, anyway you do it is pretty damn good and the possibilities are endless. Including clam + cheese.

                                                                  I also feel like Sally's would be the better pizza to have "tomato only" - something about the crust - but the service there is *almost* unforgivable.

                                                          2. re: Jimmy Cantiello

                                                            my "moots" you are really refering to american style pizza cheese which is a 6lb. loaf of low moisture mozzarella also known as american style pizza cheese. This stuff is priced on the block market so it is actually a commodity cheese - companies like calabro that produce a high quality product are forced to price based on a commodity market not by the actual quality. If you price off the block market you instantly reduce the market by at least 95 % -- Very few pizza makers want to spend the money for a quality cheese - they want cheap cheap cheap. I work at calabro so i know how this works first hand. Personally i would like to see good pizza makers move back to scamorza instead of the american stlye pizza cheese.

                                                      1. re: sbp

                                                        Pepe's used to use Calabro cheese http://www.calabrocheese.com/ but stopped due to price. They use a cheaper cheese now, probably Grande, which would account for the drop in quality over the last 10 years or so.
                                                        I am happy to hear you went without cheese on the clam pie. Too bad you missed out on the bacon pie. It's by far my favorite there. Next time make sure you try one and a pie with just sauce.

                                                        1. re: CindysFarmStand

                                                          I did want to "go naked" the first time, though I do love the combo of clams and bacon. And yes, an old-school crust and sauce only pizza would probably be amazing from Pepe's. Their dough is amazing.

                                                          1. re: sbp

                                                            That's great sbp. I am glad you made the trek! I agree their crust is great. I am still trying to figure out if they use a starter. Most people would automatically assume they do, but recently I found out Patsy's doesn't so who knows?

                                                          2. re: CindysFarmStand

                                                            check bar for calabro cheese, they use it exclusively.

                                                        2. Does anybody know what they are using for sauce? What type of tomatoes? I am assuming they buy canned whole tomatoes, but which brand?

                                                          16 Replies
                                                          1. re: ctpiz

                                                            I'm curious, also. If nobody responds because the restaurant is fiercely proprietary about their recipes, I will bring grubbies on my next visit and do a dumpster dive and report back.

                                                            1. re: Veggo

                                                              I just found some reliable sources that claim they use canned Sclafani Genuine San Marzano Tomatoes - Italian Peeled Tomatoes. I think you should still go dumpster diving and let me know for sure.

                                                              1. re: ctpiz

                                                                And I think you would encourage me to do a swan dive from the cliffs of Dover, to know if it hurts for sure. I'm wise to you first time posters, but if you have a scintilla of sincerity, welcome :)

                                                                  1. re: vvvindaloo

                                                                    Pizza sauce 101 for what it is worth

                                                                    The pizza sauce is made from a combination of San Marzano and regular plum...1/2 and 1/2...the "saucyness" of the San Marzano adds body to the sauce. The regular plums usually are from Peru and are in a thinner liquid.

                                                                    They are bought through a Italian distibutor...we'll leave them nameless so there is a scintilla of secretness left...but you would recognize them immediatly...they sell the same things at Stop and Shop.

                                                                    Biggest surprise to most pizza eaters is that the sauce is just ground through a traditional meat grinder with a 1/4 inch die and is never cooked. Sometimes, depending on the season a small amount of sugar...usually about a cup for each five gallons is added to soften the acidity...but it is not done lightly and without several people tasting to be sure it is needed.

                                                                    The high heat drives moisture out of the sauce and it is absolutely critical that the oven temp be correct and that the dough be the right thickness for the heat to do it's work. The cheese also cannot be too thick because it will trap the steam being driven out of the sauce...leaving a gummy layer of dough. Just like a steamed dumpling.

                                                                    If you get a pizza with an undercooked crust...it may be the result of the pizza baker dropping a pie onto a spot in the oven that was just used and they didn;t allow the brick to come back up to temp...which takes a few minutes.

                                                                    The use of the old, no longer made, Blodgett 1000 oven is common because the heat comes from the bottom as opposed to the newer more popular wood stoves which can result on a charred top.

                                                                    The coal ovens work from the bottom as well...but the small door of the 1000 makes it more efficicent. Bakers Pride also made a small door and those are more popular down in NY and NJ for some reason...probably tradition.

                                                                    The reason broccoli and spinach are considered poor choices at some of the more popular places is that they use frozen products which is just like squeezing a sponge of water on the pie...mushrooms are also difficult to use...

                                                                    Try thy them at a place that makes them fresh...the spinach blanched and the broccoli blanched and cut small and they work just fine.

                                                                    1. re: sodagirl

                                                                      Great post -- I love the virtually scientific approach to creating perfection. I'm the same way with Buffalo Chicken Wings. It's the details that make the difference.

                                                                      1. re: sodagirl

                                                                        So, it is half San Marzano from Italy and half plum from Peru and some sugar? Are spices ever added to the sauce (basil, salt, garlic)?

                                                                        Do they use the whole can in the mix, including the liquid, or do they drain the whole tomatoes from the can?

                                                                1. re: ctpiz

                                                                  Probably about once a week the Sclafani truck blocks my access to parking while it delivers to one of the Downtown or Wooster Street places, and I get to sit and watch them ever so slowly wheel the cans in on a hand truck, impatiently waiting for them to get out of the way.
                                                                  Pepe's and Sally's both use whole peeled tomatoes (I thought San Marzano and Pomodori, but it has been a few weeks). I'm not sure about Modern as I'm never on State Street at that time of day. BAR differs in using cans of already pureed tomatoes, which the Sclafani site says are from California. If you're ever waiting for a slice at BAR (they only serve slices after midnight) you can see them preparing the pizzas assembly line style, with one guy ladeling out the sauce and adding the cheese.
                                                                  The liquid in the cans with the whole tomatoes is a puree of the same tomatoes, and there is salt and basil in the puree. Not sure if Sally's or Pepe's adds any further seasoning in addition to this. BAR does not, but they do heavily season some of the toppings. BAR also uses fresh, not frozen, vegetables for toppings.

                                                                  1. re: danieljdwyer

                                                                    cans are not drained,,,the basil in the cans is one leaf...I guess it adds a little flavor and there is some salt...but no other seasonings...at least at the classic places.

                                                                    I can do wings 101 if you want...flour or no flour?

                                                                    1. re: sodagirl

                                                                      I need to know the brand of tomatoes. I can't find these Peru tomatoes. I think we all agree they are using Sclafani, but sodagirl says its a mix.

                                                                      Don't even go into hot wings. We all know it is a sin to bread wings.

                                                                      1. re: ctpiz

                                                                        If they're breaded, they're not Buffalo Chicken Wings. And they soak up grease and sauce and lose all crispiness. Yuck.

                                                                        1. re: sbp

                                                                          not breaded just a dusting of flour and some ground pepper...alot of places do it...and don;t tell you

                                                                        2. re: ctpiz

                                                                          It is Asclafani...the first is San Marzano and the other is the straight peeled plums...

                                                                          Not bread...just flour...and most of the popular places do it because it soaks up the moisture...just a lkight dusting with ground pepper...

                                                                          1. re: ctpiz

                                                                            Got stuck waiting on the delivery truck on Wooster Street today (seriously, if they're not going to pull up to the curb anyway, do they have to park in front of the only two open spots on the street every time!) They were trucking in cans of San Marzano and Pomodori.
                                                                            Wings need a little flour (preferably a very fine flour a la Korean chicken wings). The wing situation in New Haven is lamentable, however. I'm almost looking forward to BW3 opening just to be able to get wings that aren't completely horrible when it's too hot to make my own.

                                                                            1. re: danieljdwyer

                                                                              word has reached me that the chilean tomatoes have been pulled and Sclafani is not buying from Spain...not sure if this is just a rioutine thing or a change in long term activity