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I found the story fascinating on many levels. Anyway, after I read it, I stopped by Grand Sichuan on St Marks and 66 on Mott, eating at neither. Couldn't figure out what to order and it was the middle of the day, so I ate at Shanghai Garden. :-)
I would love to learn more about techniques of classic Sichuan cooking.
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Interesting interview, Lau. I'm still a bit confused by his "beating water" into meats comment. I'm guessing he may be referring to velveting meats.
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re: alkapal
I've done different things -- coat with cornstarch, wine, etc. and blanch in oil or water and the baking soda thing. I find that I don't do the oil blanching thing very often because it's messy, not as healthy and I usually don't have tons of oil lying around. But I think the best flavor and texture is from cornstarch and blanching in oil.
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The biggest complaint I hear or read about usually when someone tries a new Chinese restaurant is, "Not the Chinese Food I remember".
I applaud Xiaotu (John) Zhang's vision and concept......but to me it is self serving to his business interests. There is still a place for the old Chinese Food many remember and yearn for even if the the critics deem it as uninspired.....gloopy/glopy sauces not withstanding. Simply prepared Cantonese style rustic dishes will always be the preferred choice for me.

