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May 3, 2008 06:14 PM

Modern Asian and Modern Indian

Im vising NY from CA.

Any fantastic American New Style places that serve Asian (new) food. You know, similar to american new but ones that use asian spices, asian vegetables, kobe beef, ponzu, yuzu, vietnamese spieces, etc.

There are a lot of these places in SF that I have tried, but I have never been blown away (slanted door is decent though).

Something like momofuku ko maybe?!

Also, I would love to eat modern Indian food. The types of places you find in London or like Vij's in Vancouver.

Any ideas? Devi maybe?

Alot of modern indian really sucks, but Vij's is fantastic.

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  1. Look into Maze by Gordon Ramsay in the London Hotel (55th st. and 6th ave.) for Asian-influenced new American / European and Tabla on Madison Square Park for new Indian.

    2 Replies
    1. re: cimui

      Hi cimui,

      I think Maze is simply contemporary French and not so much influenced by Asian style. There may be a few ingredients here or there, but the impact was not significant enough.

      1. re: kobetobiko

        Thanks for the correction, kobetobiko. The fish dish I tried on my visit there had wasabi and edamame in it, and bok choy pops up on the menu in other places -- so it's left me thinking of Maze as "Asian influenced." I think you're right that OP sounds like he / she wants something more Asian and less Asian influenced.

    2. I'm hardly an expert on haute indian cuisine in NYC, but I've yet to find a restaurant serving nouveau cuisine in NYC that I have enjoyed eating at as much as I did in the past at Zaika in London (although I haven't been to Zaika in several years).

      Tabla is popular among the chowhound crowd, but I think only a handful of the dishes currently being offered there show obvious indian influences. Take a look at their menus to see whether they might work for you.

      Devi is another popular choice among many hounds. I suspect the types of dishes they offer will fit better with what you are looking for (eg lamb-stuffed tandoori chicken, Goan shrimp balchao bruschetta). I was very disappointed with a meal I had there last winter, so can't personally recommend them (venison drowned in cumin, a flavorless biryani, staff a bit too eager to push the most expensive wines, etc). But have a look at their menus, read what others have to say about it, and judge for yourself.

      I am actually looking forward to trying Graffiti, the brainchild of chef Jehangir Mehta. To quote the website: "serving up eclectic, international small plates that will feature his trademark affinity for bold flavors and spices: chiles, sambhar, turmeric and star anise." The early reviews have been mixed, but a lot of the dishes sound promising.

      2 Replies
      1. re: racer x

        I agree with racer x - Tabla is barely Indian, and Devi is excellent, although apparently some of the meat dishes can be hit or miss (I've never eaten any of them). There's also Tamarind, which shows more Indian influence than Tabla but is not quite as traditional Indian as Devi.

        I have yet to go to Graffiti (I adore Jehangir Mehta), but I've also heard mixed reviews. The one great thing I've read about it is that the kitchen is very accommodating to dietary requirements - particularly vegetarians (good news for me!)

        1. re: scarlet starlet

          I threw a birthday party at Graffiti. Most people thought the concept didn't work, though a couple people were pleased with their burgers. Overall, though, everyone agreed portions were tiny and was not worth another visit.

      2. Perhaps one of the Jean-Georges properties?

        1. For New American with Asian twist, try Jean Georges or its sister restaurant Perry St. The latter has a more obvious Asian impact on the dishes, but I found the flagship Jean George to have better quality of food. You will still see plenty of dishes with Asian accents in the main dining room.

          Another restaurant is Bouley which uses a lot of Asian ingredients as Chef Bouley has travelled and worked extensively in Thailand and Japan. It also has a more causal sister restaurant, Upstairs at Bouley, which not only have new American style food but sushi and some Japanese food.

          Momofuku is more Asian oriented with innovative techniques and ingredients. It isn't new American so to speak. I think it is a new catergory on its own. It is definitely worth a visit. It is close to impossible to get a reservation at Momofuku Ko, but you can always go to Momofuku Ssam or Noodle bar for their food.

          Morimoto is primarily a Japanese restaurant, but its fusion dishes have very strong Western influence. Its omakase is superb at all level, though very expensive.

          1. Devi is great Indian with cosmopolitan influences, but definitely Indian. Also worth trying is Kampuchea for a twist on Cambodian street food.

            Devi report:

            Kampuchea report:

            2 Replies
            1. re: Peter Cherches

              Peter, the Devi review on your blog is nearly a couple of years old. Have you been back since the re-opening and change in management (

              1. re: racer x

                I was back after the review but not since the reopening. However, since the reopening the food is still in the hands of Suvir & Hemant, but the operation is thankfully out of the clutches of the guy from Baluchi's. I did recently see Suvir do a presentation at the Times Travel Show and get a taste of his fabulous Goan shrimp curry: