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Apr 29, 2008 03:25 PM

Food Advice: Thailand, Laos, Vietnam

I love to eat (HA! That's why I'm here) and am visiting southeast asia for the first time in November. I like my food so spicy it could kill a small child, I have virtually an iron stomach (many years of traveling, eating street food all over the world) and will eat anything, but I don't want to eat things just becuase they are strange, I just want the best tasting things!

So here is our itinerary: Bangkok, Chang Mai, Luang Prabang, Hanoi. Then we have 12 hours in Seoul on the way home.

Where would you reccomend? I take all comers, so what ever you love, let me know where to find it.

And yes, I know I have like 6 months. But I can't wait!

Where should I go? What dishes should I not miss?

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  1. Three good, online guides to local dining are:


    Chiang Mai:

    If you are familiar with the cuisines, trying them in their native countries will be a real treat!

    You might try to contact the Import Foods guy for more Bangkok tips.
    They're in Seattle.

    1. There's one dining institution you musn't miss in Hanoi - Cha Ca La Vong, on 14 Cha Ca Street (BTW, the street's named after the restaurant, not the other way round - so there!)

      It's a 100-year-old, grubby-looking restaurant, with a narrow staircase which you have to crawl up to get to the dining room upstairs. But it still packs in a crowd. Only serves ONE dish: snake-head fish (Ca Loc) fried in turmeric-rich oil, and served to you in the pan atop a mini-brazier. You chose from an array of side-dishes to add to the sizzling pan: fresh herbs, salad leaves, fish sauce (nuoc mam), toasted peanuts, etc. You eat it with a plain bowl of bun (rice noodles) which soaks up the yellow-colored grease. Doesn't sound too appealing? It's not - but you haven't really eaten in Hanoi until you've done Cha Ca La Vong.

      BTW, the other dining hotspot in town, Bobby Chinn restaurant is horribly over-rated!

      2 Replies
      1. re: klyeoh

        That sounds like an amazing dining experience. Definetly the kind of advice I am looking for!


        1. re: dagoose

          Cha Ca Va Vong does pack in a crowd, but mainly tourists. Try Cha Ca Anh Vu instead.

          I also highly recommend Quan An Ngon, in Hanoi for street food in a nicer setting.

      2. Eat the street food everywhere. In Laos be sure to get laab (ground meats, bit of tripe, chile, cilantro, mint, ground toasted uncooked rice, lime juice, fish sauce), khao niyeau (sticky rice). Eat with the platter of greens. Ask for lots of chile in the laab. The green papaya salad is a must as well. Eat at the night market in Chiang Mai.

        There are lots of great restaurants in Hanoi.

        3 Replies
        1. re: Sam Fujisaka

          I reside in Bangkok, and live off small stalls and carts.
          Anyone familiar with my posts knows I'm not into institutionalized dining.

          But, those little "platters of greens", and other fresh, uncooked veggies, from a source with marginal sanitation opportunities, are probably one's best chance for an intestinal hitch hiker.

          I highly advocate shops, stalls and carts.
          But, eating raw items, especially for someone with a sterile Western stomach, is really a toss of the dice.

          1. re: Curt the Soi Hound

            I know (by your posts) where you live and much appreciate your posts. I haven't eaten the "platter of greens" in Bangkok, and, like you, probably wouldn't. I've had such meals without problem over many years more in Savannakhet, Vientiane, Oudomxay, and Ubon Ratchathani. Because I work in agricultural research I get to see where and how the greens are produced. Very safe in most places. But you're certainly correct: So maybe my reply is only for "Iron Stomach" dagoose.

            1. re: Sam Fujisaka

              I'm thinking in terms of the water used to cleanse the vegetables.
              Although the local bugs might not be that serious, and locals are used to them, they sure can screw with one's holiday plans.

              We shop the local Bangkok wet markets for our produce.
              We then take it home and clean it ourselves.

              Originally from Orange County, California, we have many Vietnamese friends.
              I was surprised by how many return home for a visit and commented on how many bouts of stomach distress they had.
              One family's daughter, on her first visit to the homeland, even required a doctor visit!

        2. Four of my best meals on two trips within the past year were at:

          Chote Chitr Bangkok
          Tamarind, Luang Prabang (open most days for lunch only)
          DTF, Seoul
          Quan An Ngon, Hanoi

          3 Replies
          1. re: erica

            I totally agree with Chote Chitr in Bangkok. It's a tiny spot in an alley (not even a soi) that can be hard to find, but provided us with one of our favorite adventures in Bankok as we asked natives to held direct us along the way.

            Wete there in January and were thrilled with every dish they brought to us. There's a lot written about this tiny spot in Western publications, much of it available on the Internet, but they are apparently rigorous about fining the traditional and often hard-to-find ingredients.

            Our mean included a very complex banana flower salad with prawns (so big they thought they were lobsters), a wok-fried bass, me krob and tom ym pla -- fish soup that was also complex and wonderful.

            Another favorite of our in Bankok was a tiny noodle place called Raan Jay Fai, a tiny open air restaurant in a congested (even for Bangkok) industrial area. It opens late in the afternoon -- some say 3, some 4, some 6 pm. We had a "linner" there -- late lunch/early dinner. There is a woman who cooks along side the tables in what has to be nothing more than a concrete bucket with an electric blower keeping the flame high. She throws things into the wok that sits on top of it and created the most amazing noodle dishes ever. Her noodles are the stuff of dreams -- crisp, chewy and thin and perfectly complemented with beautiful seafood and vegetables and seasoning -- unlike anything I've had anywhere else. We shot some footage of her cooking. If only re-creating the meal was as simple. Ran Jay Fai is at 327 Maha Chai Road.

            1. re: chicgail

              So good that you got to eat at Raan Jay Fai! I visited a couple of months ago , before opening time, and she (owner) told me that 3pm was the opening time...I am intrigued by this place and have it on my list for the future!

              1. re: chicgail

                wow. That sounds amazing. i can't wait to try all of this!

            2. If you're looking for lava, the hottest thing I've ever eaten was a green papaya salad off the street in Bangkok.

              You might have to tell your server/food preparer that you can handle the heat, though, because when we were there they would almost always assume we couldn't handle any spice. And if we said we could, they'd still go easy. I think they thought we were British.

              In Chiang Mai there's actually a good Mexican place, believe it or not, if you happen to be craving it at the time, as we were. A guy from California runs the restaurant.

              I got sick in Luang Prabang from eating at a "fill your plate for $1" place. The food had been sitting out for who-knows-how-long and I ended up out of commission for about a week. It's too bad because I didn't really get to try any food there after that.

              You should follow and not deviate from some rules: No tap water, no ice, no slush drinks. Don't eat salad or raw fruits & veggies unless you peel them. Try to eat from food stalls that have a lot of business because - well - it's probably better food, and their ingredients will be most fresh. Use caution when approaching an all-you-can-eat buffet type place.

              I don't know if you already know these tips, but no harm in putting it out there again. Also, a great travel source for Southeast Asia is .

              7 Replies
              1. re: cscsman

                "If you're looking for lava, the hottest thing I've ever eaten was a green papaya salad off the street in Bangkok."

                Surprisingly, The hottest dish I ever had was pla goong, a grilled shrimp salad, from a shop that was in MBK Center. Thai salads can really pack the heat!

                1. re: Curt the Soi Hound

                  oooh ooh! I can't wait. That is awesome. I love spicy food. There is a Lao/Thai restaurant here in Seattle that has earned my lifetime achievement award in making the hottest soup ever without forsaking flavor for heat. I can't wait to try more of this type of stuff!

                  1. re: dagoose

                    I happen to live in Seattle - where is this Lao/Thai place?

                    1. re: cscsman

                      ViengThong, on MLK in Mt. Baker area.
                      This is from my first time there. I've been back and it has never dissapointed. A few things to know: They close at 8pm, aren't open on Mondays and only take cash. Enjoy!

                  2. re: Curt the Soi Hound

                    i agree. i had a banana blossom salad in Phuket that annhilated me. i ordered a milk based drink to help me cope.

                    1. re: Hot Chocolate

                      that being said i absolutely loved the salad. even with the street som tum the hotter it seems to be the more i want to eat ... very odd.

                      1. re: Hot Chocolate

                        I live in Bangkok and I still don't trust that my stomach has adjusted sufficiently to the local "aquatic fauna and flora" to eat "street som tum". I only eat salads that I am sure have been washed with treated water.