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Whole New York Strip

s
sheiladeedee Apr 25, 2008 04:01 PM

I just got a barrel grill with a side firebox, and I am eager to try it out over Memorial Day. I have invited some friends, and have my eye on a whole New York strip to roast, grill, or grill roast.... Any tips, sources for recipes, advice, other comments? I will use lump charcoal and hardwood and would want it fairly simple, not marinated or very spiced. Garlic, olive oil, black pepper and parsley... The sides will be very simple, a good cole slaw or salad, grilled vegetables, my italian potato salad, and a lemon curd tart with berries.

  1. Caroline1 May 2, 2008 09:08 PM

    Maybe you're luckier than I am, but I always seem to invite people with very disimilar preferences on how they like their beef cooked. For that reason, but also because it's a lot easier, I would cut the whole strip into steaks.

    Bravo on the lump charcoal. The ONLY way to fly!

    As discussed here by others, salt draws liquid, but beef lets fluids go slowly. But for that reason I salt my steaks before cooking, pepper them after. Salting first seems to help get a better crust. And I do coat my steaks liberally with olive oil before putting them on the grill. It also helps gain a crustier crust.

    1. t
      TheDescendedLefticleOfAramis Apr 29, 2008 04:36 PM

      If you have a "whole NY strip", which is from the short loin primal, and you want to grill ... break it down and go high. Leave the salt and pepper for after grilling and let the steaks rest. *After* ... salt draws and pepper scorches

      4 Replies
      1. re: TheDescendedLefticleOfAramis
        applehome Apr 29, 2008 09:49 PM

        The last word on salting before vs. afterwards has to go to Herve This in his book Molecular Gastronomy. Using electron microscopes and careful measurement of liquids and weights he discovers that... feh... it doesn't really matter. While white meat, like chicken, can lose up to 1% of its weight in the first 30 minutes after salting, red meat discharges water very slowly. "There is no disgorging of liquid even though the meat has been coated with salt. In the case of actual cooking, when one would season it with only a small amount of salt, the purging action would be weaker still. Thus it appears that salt has no notable effect."

        He further experiments with the actual penetration of salt before and during cooking and finds that there is very little - Xray analysis for sodium and chlorine reveal no penetration - the salt actually passes out of the meat during cooking.

        And yet... I'll swear that I taste the difference if I salt beforehand. And I'm sure that you or others will swear that there is significant liquid lost if pre-salted.

        So maybe not the last word, after all. But in truth, I doubt if it makes that much difference, either way.

        1. re: applehome
          t
          TheDescendedLefticleOfAramis May 1, 2008 04:40 PM

          I agree: given the relatively short time involved with grilling, I suspect the "draw" I mentioned would be negligible as you suggest, excepting the rest period ... salting afterwards is a personal, not empirical, preference.
          In your opinion, given any prime cut, do "restaurant" salamanders yield a more toothsome plate ... moreover, what have you most enjoyed as a side?

          1. re: TheDescendedLefticleOfAramis
            applehome May 1, 2008 06:54 PM

            I do enjoy a thoroughly crisped crust and a raw center, so 2000F salamanders do work for me. I don't think that Peter Luger's advertises that kind of heat, but their prime, dry aged, porterhouse is my 2nd best favorite steak.

            The very best is actually served pretty much raw. True Japanese Wagyu, either Kobe or Mishima, that is so incredibly marbled that it is virtually a beef lardo, needs only enough heat to get the fat to the point that it just melts in your mouth. A Salamander would just toughen it up.

            Not having regular access to that level of Wagyu (and US Wagyu isn't the same), I periodically think about what Alton Brown did with his Weber, which was to connect an electric hair blower to the side (under the lump charcoal). Those coals were blazing - probably the equal of a salamander.

            Sides? There are sides?

            Actually, in the steakhouses, there's the perfunctory creamed spinach. At home, I've had great success when serving my vietnamese coleslaw, shrimp version (I have chicken, shrimp, and chicken/shrimp versions) - guests seem to really enjoy it along with a baker.

            1. re: applehome
              t
              TheDescendedLefticleOfAramis May 2, 2008 07:14 PM

              On the more mainstream steakhouse side ...
              I've always found a simple tomato/onion salad a sound starter.
              (Since you mentioned Luger ... those onion rolls)

              I prefer Kobe/Wagyu "ishiyaki" (stone cooked) table-side.
              Admittedly, this is hard to come across.

              Like your Alton anecdote ... conjures up some memories.

      2. applehome Apr 26, 2008 12:55 PM

        This is a top loin shell or strip - it's behind the rib. Not as marbled as rib, but still quite marbled - it would be a real shame to low and slow this. It deserves to be served with a nice crust and a rare/medium-rare middle. Low & slow gives you well done - usually pull-apart super-well done, good for tough, long-fiber muscle meats, but not necessarily for a good USDA Choice strip or rib roast. OTOH, if you like well done meats, then by all means, cook it to death.

        Critical: Get both an oven thermometer for the outside and an instant read thermometer for the inside of the meat itself. The oven thermometer on the grill itself is important to get the surface temp, but having one on the lid to show you what the air temp is also a good thing to have.

        I'd go with the salt & pepper, then oo/garlic/pepper rub. Make two lines of hot burning lump charcoal front and back, and put the roast in between, You should start this with the grill air temp at over 500F. Turn often at first. Replenish coals as necessary, but let the temp ride down (to around 300F) as you cook, and leave it alone as the embers die down (don't keep peeking - it'll let out the heat). Get the outside nice and crusty (but not burnt) and the middle to about 135F. Make sure you let it sit a good long time (20 minutes) before you slice. If you want it really rare, don't let the middle get above 130F. A big roast like this will cook itself after removing it from the heat a good 5-10 degrees more. The whole thing should take about 30-35 minutes a lb.

        Lump charcoal doesn't need hardwood unless you really want to smoke it. If you're using briquets, you need the hardwood (especially to hide the chemical flavors), but I get a nice smoke ring and plenty of smoke flavor just from the hardwood lump charcoal.

        3 Replies
        1. re: applehome
          s
          sheiladeedee Apr 27, 2008 03:58 AM

          Thanks - This is the way I want it. I love having a grill capable of doing this. It has a temperature gauge on the lid, and is really heavy iron so it holds the heat well. Do you have an approximate time for the cooking? I would think it would be an hour or less, similar to high heat roasting of a whole tenderloin..

          I tend to use hardwood because I have a lot of it available as I trim the very old trees in the back of my house.

          1. re: sheiladeedee
            applehome Apr 28, 2008 12:34 AM

            If it's the whole strip sub-prime, it is bigger than a tenderloin - probably 8-10 lbs, or more. It will take longer than an hour. With hardwood and lump charcoal and an initial air temp around 500-700F, it will be less than the 30 min/lb I said before, but you really don't want it to stay that hot throughout the whole time you're cooking, which is why you let it die down and get to a more reasonable temp. Keep it very hot for the first 30 to 45 min, then let it die down. Cook it mostly at 400 and gradually dying down to 300, probably for another hour and a half - total cooking time probably 2 hours or more. Test with the instant read thermometer starting about an hour and a half in (total time) and take it off from the heat at 135F.

            Remember that the higher the temp you cook at, the more contrast there will be between the crust and the middle. (The lower the temp, the more even the overall doneness.) You don't want the outside burnt before the inside is done enough to eat, even as a rare roast. So cooking the whole time at a super-high temp (500-700) is not recommended. My formula is to start the fire, wait until the flames are gone, place the roast in, replenish once or twice (depending on the size), then let it die out. If you have control vents on your grill, start with the vents wide open, and then close down the lower vent (where air is drawn in) after the flames are done.

            One thing that's a bit tricky is replenishing with hardwood. You might consider having something else on the side to create a fire (maybe just a brick lined circle in the dirt) so you can transfer only the embers to the grill. If your wood is fresh, there are volatile chemicals in the wood that can cause bad flavors and in some cases, even be unhealthy. Even if it's properly aged, you don't want flames kicking up anew as you replenish - you just really want the heat and to some extent, the smoke. I use hardwood lump charcoal and what I do is to have it started in one of those chimneys on the side, so that even with the lump, I'm only transferring in lit coals.

            Timing isn't everything - internal temp is what you ultimately have to go by. If you don't already have an instant read thermometer, I would highly recommend you get one - it's only about $20. For planning purposes, remember to add the 20 minutes sitting time before serving your guests. For a 8-10lb roast, I would not start it less than 2 1/2 hours before eating time.

            1. re: applehome
              s
              sheiladeedee Apr 28, 2008 02:17 AM

              Although the strip is bigger than the tenderloin it is a very flat roast and so I thought it would cook quite quickly...I'll use the internal temp to tell me when to take it out, start it hot and cook over indirect heat and see what happens..

              When I'm roasting something bigger on the grill or am slow cooking something, I have an old grill nearby where I keep starting new coals to keep the temerature up. Now that I have the side firebox, I am going to try experimenting with something less expensive to see how the temperature works over time. I'll be able to replenish without opening the main chamber and losing heat.

              Good point about volatiles from raw wood - I'll take care to use the old stuff. I also have a lot of grape vine cuttings which when dry make great smoky fuel but burn off quite quickly so don't add much to the overall fire..

        2. k
          Kelli2006 Apr 25, 2008 04:15 PM

          You could BBQ it (low and slow) for the holiday. I am aware that many view cooking a rib loin in this manner may be heresy, but the results are fantastic.
          I would rub it with salt and pepper and maybe a generic BBQ rub, but go easy on the spices, as they can overpower the meat, unless it is grass-fed dry-aged beef.

          I would cook it for 1/2 hour per pound at 200-220°, and serve it as you would prime rib.

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