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Apr 20, 2008 05:15 AM

Degustation. Sweet Mother of God.

Today was day 2 of hippie-chef little brother’s (LB) visit to NYC. We spent the day wandering most of Manhattan, from Zabar’s down through Central Park, down to Times Square, then down to the village/Chinatown/Little Italy/Soho. Good times, good food. Bought a baguette at Fairway and devoured it in the park with a burrata that I bought yesterday on Arthur Ave. Stopped at Centro Vinoteca and talked politics with the bartender while enjoying a quartino of a Bastianich rose (LB had a gin and tonic with a splash of ginger ale – wtf?). Went to Russ and Daughters and shared a pastrami smoked salmon and horseradish cream cheese sandwich on a bialy. Chilled at an outdoor café on Mulberry with a couple of cocktails. Walked up Bowery and stopped into Bowery & Vine for a tasting – three fairly good whites and a fabulous cocktail made with white wine, St. Germain liqueur and a splash of club soda. Finally, after all that, it was time for Degustation.

As soon as we walked in, we could see that we were in for a unique food experience – the place is about the size of my living room, with about 18 bar seats around a “kitchen” that is about half the size of mine (just a grill, a fryer, a couple of burners and several prep areas). However, despite the tinyness, we could see that the chefs were pumping out some awesome looking food. We looked over the menu and briefly considered one of the tastings, but they asked that the whole party participate and we didn’t want to be locked into having the same dishes – we figured we’d get to try more stuff if we each ordered separately. The 5 course tasting was 4 dishes from the regular menu plus a dessert, but the 4 dishes they had chosen weren’t the most interesting ones in our opinion. There are only 12 dishes on the regular menu (plus they were offering a new foie gras special). The 10 course tasting was mostly improvised, with a few courses from the regular menu. The waitress suggested that we order 3-4 dishes per person, but we decided to go with five each (knowing that we would probably skip dessert). I am sorry to say that I can’t remember everything that was on the regular menu, but we did sample most of it – I think the only things we missed were the crudo sampler, the Wagyu beef flank, the lamb loin and one other thing from the “starter” section – maybe a salad of some sort.

LB started with the “Tortilla,” I got the “Croquetas.” I wasn’t expecting anything too exciting – I mean, it’s a croquette, right? Wrong. I broke through the crispy outer crust to find an oozy, silky center – a blend of béchamel sauce, goat cheese, apple bacon and onion. There were 4 of them on the plate and I could have eaten approximately 163 more. Fantastic. LB’s “Tortillas” were actually tiny little potato packages with a poached quail egg inside, topped with a thin slice of piquillo pepper. These were also delicious but since he only got two, I only got a tiny bite. BTW, both of these dishes were very attractively presented, as was the entire meal – I’m not going to comment further on the presentation, but suffice it to say that everything that we were served was absolutely beautiful.

For our next course, I ordered one of the signature dishes – a poached egg with Serrano ham, chorizo foam and rice cracker-crusted asparagus. I am not a fan of runny eggs, in general, but this was delicious. The crispy crust around the asparagus soaked up the egg yolk to great effect – it stayed crispy but also got chewy (kind of the way Fritos do in Frito pie). The foam added just the right touch of sausage richness without the substance. LB had the grilled red snapper with avocado puree, which was lovely but not a standout in the context of so much fabulousness. The fish was perfectly seared and served with a smear of avocado and a little citrus relish – at any other restaurant I would have been thrilled to receive such a perfectly cooked piece of fish, but here it was just a little meh.

Next up: wild mushroom salad with lamb bacon and Swiss raclette for me, grilled octopus for LB. Two more winners! There were both grilled and deep fried mushrooms of several varieties served atop a few dollops of “raclette,” which was actually more of a mornay-style sauce than actual raclette. The lamb bacon was crisp, but melted in the mouth. LB’s octopus was exceptional – extremely tender, and served with a couple of condiments, one of which was octopus mayonnaise. The chef explained that they make a confit of octopus, and then use the oil from that to make the mayonnaise. It REALLY tasted like octopus, which kind of freaked me out if I thought about it, but it was fascinatingly tasty.

By this time, the chefs and wait staff had obviously noticed that we were seriously into food and intensely interested in everything coming out of the kitchen, so they sent us an extra course, which was part of the 10 course tasting – an eggshell filled with soft scrambled duck eggs and duck bacon. Again, I am not a fan of soft eggs, but again, these won me over – they had the texture of soft polenta, almost, and were studded with tiny chunks of intense cured duck meat. I now believe that all animals should be made into bacon. LB liked this but thought it more appropriate for a brunch dish. Whatever. If it’s that good, I don’t care what time of day you serve it.

My next choice was the rabbit with white bean parsley puree and fried artichokes. LB thought this a bit pedestrian until he tried the puree – it was perfectly silky, with a great herbal kick and plenty of garlic. It accentuated the flavor of the rabbit loin beautifully. The artichokes were coated with an amazingly thin and crispy coating – still not sure what it was, but it was fabulous. LB had quail with porcini mushrooms and pine nuts – the sleeper hit of the night. I was expecting plain grilled quail and mushrooms with some pine nuts scattered about. Instead, they made a butter out of the pine nuts that was satin smooth and impossibly rich, served alongside marinated, grilled, juicy, crispy, delectable quail. Not sure what was in the marinade, but the pine nut butter brought everything together perfectly. It was the best quail I’ve ever had, bar none.

For our final course, we both chose the foie gras special, with sherry-date consommé and watermelon pickle. Oh. My. God. In. Heaven. I was totally unprepared for the reaction that my entire being would have to the first bite of this dish. Tears came to my eyes, it was that good. I had to put my fork down and allow my body to process what I can only describe as a food orgasm. Luckily, LB was having the same reaction so he wasn’t too embarrassed by my behavior. The foie was perfectly seasoned and seared, in a shallow pool of the most delicious date flavored liquid imaginable, with julienne strips of watermelon pickle and micro greens strewn about. The sweet date flavor with the rich fatty foie was perfectly offset by the fresh crunch of the watermelon. The date consommé became more and more amazing as the foie melted into it – I scraped the bowl as clean as I could with my spoon and would have licked it clean if I could have. Truly, words cannot do this dish justice. No other foie I’ve ever had even comes close, and I would have to say this is one of the best dishes I’ve ever eaten, EVER, anywhere.

Now, I would have been MORE than happy to end the evening on that note, but the kitchen wasn’t done with us. After I had had sufficient time to recover from my out-of-body foie experience, they brought us yet another course (from the 10 course tasting menu) on the house. I was served crisp pork belly with grilled scallion and mushrooms, LB received grilled squab with beet-ginger puree. The pork belly was wonderful – fatty and rich with an awesomely crisp layer on top, and the grilled scallions (plus a green sauce that I couldn’t identify and some other things) were delicious. I was wary of LB’s dish because I DETEST beets. I mean, HATE them. This puree, however, would make a convert out of anyone. It was sweet and earthy but without that characteristic nasty “dirt” flavor that beets usually have, and very spicy from the ginger. This was yet another inspired meat/sauce pairing, as the beet complemented the squab perfectly. The squab itself was tremendous – the breast pieces were perfectly rare and tender, the leg and wing were grilled crispy and tossed with some type of lemongrass business that also went well with the beet puree.

We were much too full to consider dessert (yes the plates are small, but if you order five courses you will have plenty of food), so after chatting with the chef (he and my brother hit it off and bonded over their favorite restaurants in Chicago) and the manager about how awe-inspiring everything was, they brought us the check. Which was also awe-inspiring, because it was $116 (without wine). ONE HUNDRED SIXTEEN DOLLARS. Seriously??????? We had seven courses each of some of the greatest food I’ve ever tasted for half of what you pay for ONE person at Per Se?????? This place is quite possibly the best value in all of NYC – it’s certainly the best value I’ve encountered. The total WITH a bottle of wine and tax was only $164. Unbelievable. Everyone needs to go eat here before they catch on and start charging what they’re worth, because they could EASILY double their prices for that food quality. Also, the service was impeccable. The one quibble I had was that the AC was set to a fairly low temp and blowing constantly – I realize they probably have to do that because the grill would heat up the tiny space in a hurry if they didn’t, but I hate drafts when I’m eating because they tend to cool off my food too fast. Even with the small plates here, some of my courses were pretty cold by the time I got to the end.

While I realize that it’s sort of apples and oranges, I can’t help but compare Degustation to Momofuku Ssam, since we ate there the night before. Sadly for Momofuku, there is NO comparison. We spent almost exactly the same amount of money ($20 more at Degustation), but the food was LIGHT YEARS apart. Thank you SO MUCH to everyone who suggested Degustation – LB loved it and obviously, so did I!

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  1. Hi biondanonima,

    I am so glad to hear that both you and your brother had a great time at Degustation. It is a place where you can enjoy the food and the open kitchen - watching the chefs preparing the food in front of you and interacting with the chefs, that makes the dining experience a special one. I hope your brother got some inspirations and good exchanges with the chefs. Even if not, it sounded like the food had made the dinner worthy a trip from Chicago!

    I guess you didn't get to go to WD 50 with your brother, but overall it appeared that you two had some wonderful time! Thank you very much for your detailed reviews. It is always helpful to hear back from hounds if the suggestions provided worked out or not.

    Lastly, please don't give up on Momofuku yet! I think I proposed both Degustation and Momofuku in your original post, and I personally like Momofuku better because I like unusual food (like offals) and Momofuku is very good at that. There are some dishes like veal head terrine, spicy tripes, banh mi, and the vegetables like brussels sprouts and cauliflowers; they are all winners. Their ham selection, particular the Benton's, is also amazing. I hope you will get to visit Momofuku again and sample more!

    Lastly, I want to say that besides the food and the great foodie experience, the most important thing is that it sounded like you and your brother had some great bonding time. I think that's the most important! Food tastes better when you enjoy it with someone you love!

    1 Reply
    1. re: kobetobiko

      Hi Kobe - yes, the trip from Chicago was definitely worth it! LB had a great time and really enjoyed both restaurants. We didn't get to WD-50 but we will next time - we actually mentioned that to the chef at Degustation and he urged LB to go and see for himself how it compares to Alinea. I really enjoyed his visit too, in large part because I got to check out some places I wouldn't normally go with someone who's just as into food as I am!

    2. Nice. Thanks for reporting back. I'm glad you guys both enjoyed it.

      1. Fantastic report. Degustation currently holds the position of my number one favorite restaurant in the world, and I'm really looking forward to an upcoming visit to see if it keeps its spot (hope they have the quail and the foie you described... those sound amazing!). I'm really excited about the 10 course tasting, which wasn't an option the last time I was in NYC. The chef is truly talented (and genuinely nice and humble, to boot), and, as you said, the value is incredible.

        1 Reply
        1. re: daveena

          Daveena, you're right about the chef - SUCH a great guy, really laid back, self-effacing, modest. He told us how they made the date consomme and pine nut butter and described in detail his process for making a beer foam for another of his dishes, saying "it's really nothing you couldn't do at home." Maybe not, but I don't know that I would ever have come up with inspired flavor palettes like that on my own, and I'm a darn good cook! When we mentioned that we had chosen his restaurant over WD-50, he immediately said "go there next time, Wylie is an amazing chef and a great guy, you will love his food." I hope Wylie appreciates having friends like that!

          Keep your fingers crossed for the foie especially - truly, I can't remember eating anything so delicious ever in my life. If it's not on the menu and they're not offering it as a special, BEG to see if they can make it for you. The quail, croquetas and squab were my other faves, but really everything was just amazing. The couples on either side of us both did the 10 course tasting and I would have been jealous, but the chefs were kind enough to comp us several of the best looking dishes from that menu anyway. The only things I saw that I coveted but didn't receive were a scallop dish and a whole prawn. It boggles my mind that the prices are as low as they are. Given all of those factors, it might be MY new favorite restaurant too!

        2. Great report. I must try the foie gras dish. Thanks.

          1. sorry ssam didn't hit the spot, but my wife and i are going to degustation on saturday (her first time, i'm going back because i've craved it) and it's good to hear what the current menu is there. glad that some of the suggestions hit the spot...