Dining in and around Beaune
Hi everyone, I'm new to Chowhound, but so far, it seems like people are really willing to share their expertise.
I'm traveling to Beaune on 21st of July, and staying for 3 nights. I've made reservations on Le charlemagne for monday, Lameloise for tuesday and Les Jardin des Remparts for Wednesday. I'm pretty sure I wanna try the first 2, but my choice on Les Jardin was based on the fact that they were actually open on wednesdays! Any thoughts?
Good restaurants - or can I do better?
Any help, also with experiences on either of these restaurants, will be greatly appreciated.
Your list looks fine but when I'm in the country, I try to take it down a notch and mix up my fine dining with more modest fare.
Here is my list for in and around Beaune:
La Ciboulette - Beaune
Ma Cuisine - Beaune
L'Ecusson - Beaune
Le Chassagne - Chassagne
Le Chambolle - Chambolle
La Cabotte - NSG
Of those I meantioned, Ma Cuisine is the most important.
It's a terrible dilemma! There's just so many restaurants with great reputation. I was actually planing to have lunch on ma cuisine on the second day of the holiday - inbetween tastings - and Loiseau des vignes on the third say for lunch.
I think that I just have to accept that no matter what, in 3 days, your bound to miss alot!
Any feedback on Jardin des Remparts?
Regarding Jardin des Remparts:
Allen Meadows who is a Burgundy wine critic, publishes a travel guide in conjunction with his quarterly wine reports.
In his latest travel guide he writes "Chef Roland Chanilaud creates discreetly elegant cuisine that is both fresh and innovative without being exactly daring." He further states that the service, while good, can be a bit stiff and the welcome can be a bit cool.
just had lunch at Ma Cuisine today...22 Euro menu: pate with a spectacular salad, chicken leg in powerful wine sauce, fromage blanc (Ms M had epoisse cheese which, if communism hadn't already been defeated, might have defeated communism--a joke for any of you out there who remember MAD magazine's take on "the 9th Wave'), bottle of red on the low end of the price scale...best meal of our current journey, one of the better meals of our lives, we were treated very very very nicely, I can't say enough good.
hi - if ma cuisine is not opened (as i will be in beaune on sunday), what are the next best options?
I am looking for:
lunch - are there any markets open around 1-3pm in Dijon? (driving from loire, therefore that's the earliest i can arrive)
dinner - i am looking for somewhere that is not too expensive and down-to-earth in Beaune... less than 30euros. ma cuisine would have been perfect, but alas. will La Ciboulette be appropriate? is it fancy-snazzy? i noticed Le Gourmandin and le beneton are not on the lists?
You might be able to get into La Ruchotte, a famed heritage poultry/animal farm west of Beaune (therefore not far off your route into town). They serve a ferme-auberge lunch on Sundays BY RESERVATION ONLY. This is a very well regarded address that should provide a memorable Sunday venue.
Le Gourmandin is very good. It seems often overlooked, but I think that is because of its location right in the heart of the tourist zone. Everything else (resto wise) on Place Carnot can be quite poor. On a recent trip we had a memorable salmon over warm potatoes in a cream sauce. Past visits have included hits such as escargot raviolis & an excellent broasted chicken. Le Benaton is also nice, but a bit more upscale.
Le Charlemagne was good the one time I ate there a few years ago, but if the idea of fusion cuisine (Japanese and French) doesn't strike you as anything remarkable, it is easily eliminated from your list. I used to eat regularly at Jardin de Remparts, but had a couple of bad experiences there and stopped going about 3 years ago. It is 2/3 as expensive as Lameloise and 1/5 as good.
If it were me, I'd try to eat at Lameloise (where I am right now and from which I am sending this response) and Ma Cuisine, with everything else in this immediate vicinity scheduled as time allows. These are the two places you will probably not be able to get into at the last minute without reservations.
If you don't mind going a little bit out of the immediate area, you could always drive 40km or so south to Tournus, where Aux Terrasses is open for dinner on Wednesday. Their food and service are considerably better than Jardin des Remparts, and it costs little more than half as much when you consider the additional cost of the wine you will drink.
Another good choice in Tournus, which unfortunately is NOT open on Wednesdays, is the recently revitalized Restaurant Greuze, under the very competent stewardship of its new chef, Yohan Chapuis, formerly 2nd chef at both Lameloise and La Pyramide. I had a great and reasonably priced (for France) dinner at Greuze within the last week, and have already made 2 reservations there for my next trip, in October.
re: Ken Fox
My best meal in Beaune was at Le Comptoir des Tontons about 1 block outside the historical center of Beaune on Rue du Fauborg Madeleine. It's a small, casual restaurant run by a husband / wife team. They are proud of their ingredients and source top notch stuff from the nearby area. I think mostly a nearby organic farm. The food is incredibly refined for the atmosphere. Not tweezer of micro-greens refined, but very elegant and surprising flavor combinations such as braised beef with an emulsion of agastache - a plant that I'd never heard of before but had a slight curry-like taste. In a trip with many great braised beef dishes (Regalade, Les Papilles, to name a few), this was by far the best.
As I mentioned the wine list is also incredible. No it's not going to have 2 pages of Y'quem or as many back vintages as Ma Cuisine does. But if you are interested in natural wine it's the best list I've come across in France thus far and the best prices. Overnoy at mid 20 euros, a page of Pacalet at near cellar door prices - basically you name it they have it at prices less than it can be found in the US anywhere.
I also ate at Ma Cuisine and Caves Madeleine in Beaune. Ma Cuisine was great. I had the pigeon and my girlfriend the sweetbreads, both highly recommended. The foie gras was also impressive and possibly the best we had in France, beating out Chez Dumonet's. It's definitely a place you should go to experience, especially if you want to go for some of the incredible aged burgundies on the list. We didn't but still had great wine by the glass (97 Corton, 94 Cote Rotie).
Cave Madeleine had a good value 15 euro lunch menu for entree + plat, and a nice selection of wine you pull off the wall. But it was a little forgettable and I wouldn't run back, especially since it's a few doors down from Tontons.
So I agree there are too many good places for 3 days, but if you have a chance I'd really recommend squeezing in Tontons for lunch or dinner. I think they have the same menu which is 25 euros for plat and dessert, 32 euros for entree + plat, 36 for all 3.
We ate at Tontons in November on rec from a good friend (winemaker) and we had a very meh dinner. It was probably made moreso because the owner (man) treated us as if we were invisible. It took forever to get a menu, then to get our food, then to get wine.
We won't be back. Too many other great, and welcoming places to dine in Beaune.
I was a bit underwhelmed by Remparts, all the usual michelin tricks without much substance. Le Charlemagne was in another league, we ordered à la carte and I still remember the langoustine main as exceptional (a couple of years ago now). Worth trying to go for lunch though, eating on the terrace surrounded by the vines is lovely.