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Apr 18, 2008 07:10 PM

Chiado's - Only Eat Things A Head Still On

Was at Chiado's tonight, with family. There was a party of four, altogether.

For those who don't know, Chiado's is a traditional, classy, Portugeuse restaurant. Their specialty is fish, and there's quite a selection the menu. It also comes very highly recommended from a Chef friend of ours, and that's saying quite a lot.

We started off with an excellent amuse - a slice of light, skim milk cheese with herbed honey and a balsamic vinegar reduction. It wasn't French Laundry cheese puffs or cornet, but it was still quite good, though perhaps on an unnecessarily large plate.

Next, we got our appetizers. We had quite a mix - steamed clams, seared scallops, and the sardines. The sardines came across as a real highlight. They were served as fillets, half grilled, and half ceviched, with lots of olive oil, pickled onions, and roasted red peppers. Of the two, I preferred the ceviche, since I tend to prefer raw fish to cooked, but both were very well done. Still, this isn't exactly sashimi, with the chef going over the fillets with a pair of tweezers. There are bones to watch out for, and if this is a deal breaker, the dish is not going to work for you. The clams and the scallops were done just right, but these should be workhorse recipes which are consistently, competently executed in restaurants of this caliber.

Two members of our party had the grilled whole fish. Both fish were done the same way - grilled, with a salsa on top, and vegetables on the side. The accompaniments were sweet, heavy, and flavorful, leaning towards squash, sweet potato, and carrot. The perch was sweet, flavorful, with a real melt-in-the-mouth quality. The sea bass was denser, but the skin seemed to carry more of a rich, smoky flavor.

The rest of the entrees were rather forgettable next to the whole perch and bass. The monkfish I had was dense, slightly overdone, and covered in slightly creamy piri piri sauce which didn't appeal much to me. I think the fish would have been served better with more herb/spice crusting, and something fresh and zesty.

The entrees were all enormous. A place like Bymark would charge you the same price (around $40) and give you half as much food. However, don't expect any fancy flourishes. The only mousse here is a chocolate tower in the dessert menu, and the only foam is on your cappuccino.

As a side note, the size of the entrees are both a plus and a minus. To paraphrase Thomas Keller, the first bite is always the best. That's when your tastebuds are fresh. Each bite after, you get used to the stimulus, and it becomes less interesting. With a large, whole fish, finishing it can be a major chore. It certainly was, for my giant piece of monkfish.

The moral of the story? Be prepared for, and have the whole fish. If you aren't into whole fish, you'd probably be better served eating elsewhere.

The giant entrees didn't leave us with room for dessert, so unfortunately, nothing can be said about that.

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  1. The monkfish I have seen in our markets does not always look fresh, and I usually pass. Bought it at City, and was disappointed. Since then, I feel more comfortable not buying an endangered fish.
    However, you would expect Chiado to have impeccable sources, even better than City.

    1. Since they have the tapas menu in Sehnor Antonios, I never order off the Chiado menu (had the same experience, the food was good but the plates were too much).

      The tapas menu is good (although you won't be able to get whole grilled fish) but only available at the bar. But if you tell them you want the tapas menu when you make your reservation, they will accomodate.

      3 Replies
      1. re: iamam

        The past few times I've been, the bar side (west side) has essentially been closed (and no signs saying Senhor Antonio either). But the 'bar menu' (which is the tapas menu) has been available anywhere in Chiado. It doesn't "feel" the same (being served formally on white tablecloths) - but it is certainly available at the tables.

        1. re: estufarian

          Any time that I have visited, I've ordered from the main menu. Could anyone comment on the tapas menu?

          1. re: hungry_pangolin

            Worth investigating. Had it several times and the full deal many times. The service is consistently stellar and the wine selection (virtually all Portuguese and mostly unavailable anywhere else) is one of the most enjoyable in the city. It's one of the only places where I never BMOB. Funny thing though, if you've been for dinner at the restaurant, you know that you get absolutely stuffed. In comparison, the Tapas selection seems almost tiny. But, fact is, it's more than adequate. The prosciutto is excellent but I really miss the Pata Negra. They should have kept mum about it. Oops!

      2. You should have left room for dessert; Chiado (not Chiado's) has some of the best in town. (That choc mousse is amazing!)

        I have found their mains underwhelming.

        1 Reply
        1. re: grilledcheese

          We Have been to Senhor Antonioabout 15 times and we usually order from both the bar (tapas) menu and the Chiado menu:

          Dishes we especially like:

          Grilled Sardines-served with split on ta crispy pumpernickel wafer with a touch of bruschetta type salsa
          Grilled Shrimp-we order these off the Chiad o menu as they are larger-serverd with piri piri suace and hot peppers
          Grilled blood sausage and chorizo-served with an apricot jelly and pickled peppers
          Grilled Calamari and Octopus salad
          Grilled Quail and mushroom risotto
          Rapini and bean caserole
          For desert-the dried fruit flan with a tawny port