This month's Bon Appetit Paris spread
I have only been to one of the restaurants mentioned in the article. Any word on their recs? My sister is leaving on Wednesday with my not to miss list, and I'm just wondering if any of these should be added.
Some of the restaurants are in far-flung untouristed areas. Dont get me wrong.......there is nothing wrong with far-flung untouristed areas, but I'm just thinking, if its her first visit to Paris, there is really no reason to send her off to the 19e or 20e for a good meal.
I wouldnt hesitate to add Comptoir du Relais and Chez l'Ami Jean to your list, but its nearly impossible to get into Comptoir and Chez l'Ami Jean is not for everyone. Everyone raves about the food but some people find the noise level and closeness of the tables offputting. .
I have been in Paris this past week and will be here for another week. I checked out four of the places.
Quedubon - Absolutely wonderful. Will go back this week. Nice frisee au lardon followed by a perfect poulet roti for lunch E14 including cafe. Teriffic wines by the glass at very reasonable prices.
Zoe Bullion looks nice and will probably try it. Urbane same.
Cantine du Quentin. One of the most irritating and unpleasant experiences in Paris in recent memory. I am frequently in the position of explaining to americans that what they interpret as rudeness by the French (especially Parisiens) is actually politesse or american lack of knowledge of same. After 30 years I think we understand pretty well and our French is pretty darn good. We were not only treated rudely but aggressively rudely. Completely unacceptable in any culture.
In 25 years of coming to Paris in search of good food and wine I cannot recall being treated that badly. Fortunately we had not ordered and we walked out before eating or drinking so I cannot comment on the food. It looked like they had a bunch of stuff for sale but the place was also disjointed because of that. I do not doubt that the fig vinagre is good but that is not why I go to a restaurant. I was looking for good food, good wine and courteous service.
I highly recommend you go to Quedubon. It is the gem discovery of my trip so far
I also found a very nice place today recommended by a local that was not mentioned in Bon Appetit -- L'Estaminet du Marche. It is in the Marche des Enfants Rouge on Rue de Bretagne in the 3rd. The Marche is Bio and so are the wines. Wonder squash and ginger soup and braised lamb shank. The guy sitting next to me had the Androuilette and it made me wish I had ordered that.
FWIW I also went to Chez Michel for dinner with friends a couple of nights ago. The room is nice and the service good but the food was disappointing. Pot au Feu was mono-flavorless and the vegetables cooked to mush. Paris Brest was heavy and dense. Others plates were somewhat nicer but bland and uninteresting. Maybe just an off night? I did hear the next day that it changed hands very recently and that may also have been the problem. It has been highly recommended by Bernstein and others but I cannot recommend it.
I have been to L'Os A Moelle on previous visits and loved it. Les Papilles is very good but a bit on the trendy side for me.
I went to Chez Michel a couple of weeks ago and had a very nice meal. Started with a pitcher full (literally) of fish soup that had a fantastic aroma of saffron. Then had the kig-ha-farz, also great. Finished with the kouign aman, served warm and buttery. For 30E, no complaints whatsoever. Maybe just an off night that you experienced.
The places in the magazine (not all restaurants, spread across two articles) are:
La Cantine de Quentin, 10th
Zoe Bouillon, 19th
La Boulangerie par Veronique Mauclerc, 19th
La Cocotte, 11th
Les Fables de la Fontaine, 7th
Chez Michel, 10th
Le Troquet, 15th
Les Papilles, 5th,
L'Os A Moelle, 15th
Chez L'Ami Jean, 7th