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Apr 8, 2008 11:16 PM

Lao Shan Dong Homemade Noodle House - Vancouver - with images

An acquaintance who knows the Burnaby area well, took me to this place and with limited knowledge of Taiwanese cuisine, I was more than up for a little education. I'd been to another Taiwan Beef Noodle House place on the south end of Granville in the past, again based on a recommendation of someone who knows their Taiwanese food. So these two places pretty much sums up my experience with Taiwanese food and more specifically beef noodles.

Unfortunately my memory of the first place is all but gone. I just remember some beef rolled pastry-type of dish that was really delicious. The noodles have faded from my memories, so perhaps they weren't anything special. The noodles I had tonight were definitely worth the trip out - funny how the menu even said they serve "handmade noodles worth going across town for". I had a large bowl ($7.50) and it was more than enough, should have opted for the small size ($6.50), considering my mate and I split a plate of pork/veggie steamed dumplings too. Near the kitchen counter, there was an interesting array of small dishes, all quite unique looking and seeing the menu I later understood they were various appetizers one could enjoy along with noodles. Some were definitely nothing I had seen before... marinated pig ears, anyone?

Back to my bowl of noodles. The rich beef broth was just to my liking, not too overbearing (I'd expected stronger given the dark color of the soup) and to my pleasant surprise, not covered in a layer of oil - so drinking it on its own was easily done. The slices of meat were so tender, they just fell apart with one bite, and were just thick enough to feel like they weren't skimping on the toppings. The noodles, very good on the texture side, not overcooked, which I hate the most when it comes to noodles, and given their thicker cuts, definitely more filling than Vietnamese Pho.

Wondering if these are all characteristics one expects from a good bowl of Taiwanese beef noodles? As mentioned above, my knowledge is slim so any tips are appreciated, as well as other's thoughts on this particular establishment's offering.

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  1. >>Wondering if these are all characteristics one expects from a good bowl of Taiwanese beef noodles?

    I'm not a connoisseur of TBN, but the ones I have enjoyed in the past have thicker slices of tender beef brisket and a bit of fat and sinewy connective tissue (I like the version with gelatinous tendon). The beef is cooked for a long time or pressure cooked to get that tenderness. I don't like it too oily. I also like it more brothy (diluted) just like how you experienced it...but well spiced. The noodles have to have some tooth or else they end up feeling slimy.

    Good stuff jay_kay...I'll have to add this place to my list. My knowledge of good Taiwanese places is currently lacking. I have been to TBNH and liked it - though my Chinese friends gave it low marks. My father and I used to frequent a now-closed place on Park Rd in Richmond that served very good (IMO) TBN.

    5 Replies
    1. re: fmed

      Oh yes, I forgot to mention that there was that choice to have 'spicy' soup. But I chose to go without, just to get a sense of the beef broth on its own without it being kicked up spices.

      As for the beef slices, I think I chose item #1 which was their main dish and the beef was lean - again a preference thing for me. I am assuming they had some other options with more fattier beef slices too for those who enjoy that..

      1. re: jay_kay

        We've been to the one on South Granville twice in the past couple of months and really enjoyed it but are by no means experts. There were no other non-Asians in the resto both times we went and it was very busy, for what that is worth. We really enjoyed the "classic" TBN but also found the snacky items to be well prepared and tasty, with a standout being the spicy wonton.

        Would you be so kind as to provide the coordinates for your Burnaby find, jay_kay? The list expands...

        1. re: grayelf

          >>The list expands...
          ...proportionately with my waist line.

          1. re: grayelf


            Sorry I forgot to put in a link to the place when I made my original post. The address is as follows:

            105-4887 Kingsway
            Burnaby, BC
            (604) 439-9588

            Its easy to find. Its on the first floor, on the corner of a large newer looking building that houses other businesses and its directly across the road from Metrotown. If you coming from Vancouver on Kingsway, turn left onto Nelson and there is a free indoor parking lot right behind the restaurant, as well as side streets you can park on. Right next door was a small Japanese restaurant that looked busy as well. Across the road on Nelson was also a Chinese restaurant, I think my friend said it was a dumpling house, sorry can't recall the name.

            1. re: jay_kay

              jay_kay: Many thanks.

              fmed: Chowhounding is the reason that stretch fabric was invented :-).