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SF Chronicle Top 100 2008

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  1. IN

    Bar Bambino
    BarbersQ
    Bocadillos
    Cafe Majestic
    Cav
    Ducca
    Flora
    Laiola
    Nick's Cove
    O Izakaya
    One Market
    Poggio
    Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar
    Shanghai 1930
    SPQR
    Spruce
    Va de Vi (Walnut Creek)
    Wood Tavern
    Yoshi's

    OUT

    Antica Trattoria
    Bocadillos
    Cesar (Berkeley)
    Cetrella (Half Moon Bay)
    Clementine
    Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton
    Dry Creek Kitchen(Healdsburg)
    Farallon
    Fleur de Lys
    La Taqueria
    Limon
    Mantra (Palo Alto)
    Maya
    Mecca
    Ozumo
    PlumpJack Cafe
    Scott Howard (closed)
    Tres Agaves

    15 Replies
    1. re: Robert Lauriston

      Most dubious inclusions:

      Bay Wolf should be better than it is.

      Buckeye Roadhouse is just eh.

      I love Flora, but the service is often amateurish. Unless, I suppose, they recognize you as Michael Bauer.

      1. re: Robert Lauriston

        I haven't been to Buckeye, but of the restaurants on the list I've been to, I'd have to agree on Bay Wolf and Flora being dubious (I didn't really even like the food at Flora)...and you may not agree with me on this, but it did make me sad to see Dopo on the list and not La Ciccia...for that matter, La Ciccia would rank well above Firefly (and Pescheria) in my opinion...oh well, it is crowded enough already...

        Bauer did say that most have full bars, and La Ciccia doesn't, which is probably a point or three against it...but Firefly is also beer and wine only.

        Someone mentioned that Mexican food didn't do well this year....I think that reflects as much on the lack of good Mexican food in the bay area as anything.

        1. re: susancinsf

          I would be willing to bet that La Ciccia was one of the last 7 that got cut to take the list from 107 down to 100, but agree with you that it should've been included. Pescheria is not in the published list in the magazine so perhaps there is an error online. Pesce is on the list.

          I think inclusion of some that you point to, such as Bay Wolf, Flora, Buckeye Roadhouse, has to do with maintaining some geographic diversity on the list. I haven't been to Flora, but think Bay Wolf and Buckeye are OK, nothing fabulous though.

          1. re: susancinsf

            Dopo doesn't have a full bar either.

            Bauer called La Ciccia cramped and noisy, which it is, and gave it only 1.5 stars for atmosphere and 2 stars overall. I doubt there are any two-star restaurants on his top 100.

            1. re: susancinsf

              Yeah, but is La Taqueria any worse than it was last year?

              Despite his claims to cover the whole spectrum, he definitely went "upscale" on this list. There's not a single "ethnic" restaurant for which he didn't choose the most upscale (or expensive, if you don't count Jai Yun as upscale) representative. Bodega Bistro is a lot better Vietnamese restaurant than some of the mid-range Cal/American/Italian places, for example. I have trouble believing that Flora is better than Dona Tomas, since it's the same people.

              I guess what I'm saying is that the list is biased toward Euro-American food, since an "ethnic" restaurant has to be outstanding or loungey-fusiony to make the list (that hip, full-bar factor), while there are a lot of just ordinary Euro-American places on the list.

              1. re: Ruth Lafler

                The bias is indisputable. Bauer doesn't go to many non-upscale restaurants, so he doesn't eat much ethnic food, so he doesn't have the background required to evaluate many cuisines. To give him credit, the people he assigns to do those reviews are generally well-qualified. (He's both the main critic and the boss of the food section.)

                Flora is much more of a Bauer-style place than Dona Tomas: more upscale, nicer decor, somewhat more formal service, very serious full bar. Comparing his star ratings (Dona Tomas / Flora):

                Food: 2.5 / 3
                Service: 2.5 / 2.5
                Ambiance: 2 / 3
                Overall: 2.5 / 3

          2. re: Robert Lauriston

            Bocadillos is on the IN list - they did not get deleted.

            1. re: Robert Lauriston

              Plumed Horse and Ubuntu are also on newly on the IN list.

              1. re: farmersdaughter

                Pescheria is on the "by cuisine" list but is replaced by Plumed Horse on the alphabetical list.

                Bocadillos and Va de Vi are on both the 2007 and 2008 lists.

                Myth is also on the OUT list.

                Not a good year for Mexican restaurants, according to Bauer. Not that I think La Taqueria is one of the top 100 Bay Area restaurants, but the list doesn't feel the same without them.

              2. re: Robert Lauriston

                The Dining Room at the Ritz is an out? Huh? If that's not one of the Bay Area's 100 best (I would put it in the 10 best), then this list makes no sense.

                1. re: Lindarita

                  That really doesn't make sense. If he gives a restaurant four stars, how can it not be in the top 100? Maybe it was just a mistake.

                  Conceivably he left it out because he believes the chef is going to buy Myth and move over there. But by that reasoning he should have left out Pesceria, since it's closing (or has closed) and won't be reopening in its new location for a while.

                  1. re: Robert Lauriston

                    Do you mean Pescheria on Church, or are we talking about another place? I drove by Pescheria last night, seemed to be folks inside. Where is it moving?

                      1. re: farmersdaughter

                        Thanks! I missed that...guess it would be too much to hope for a good Chinese or Thai restaurant to move into that space....

                        1. re: susancinsf

                          Per the Chron, it's going to be a branch of Henry's Hunan.

              3. i was pleased to see silks included in the list. food is very good, the room is gorgeous and the service outstanding. when last there, we had the chef, the sommelier and the head waiter spend some quality time at the table with us. we'll be back.

                1. This thread should defnitely be on the SF board.

                  And I'm glad to see Farallon dropped from the list. That place has no business in any discussion of the best restaurants in SF.

                  1 Reply
                  1. re: uptown jimmy

                    Discussion of restaurant reviews goes on this board. It's off-topic for the SF board.

                  2. What does "IN" and "OUT" mean? And, why is Bocadillos on both?

                    1. Here is the entire list:

                      MICHAEL BAUER'S TOP 100 RESTAURANTS OF 2008:
                      A Cote
                      A16
                      Acquerello
                      Ad Hoc
                      Amber India
                      Ame
                      Aqua
                      Aziza
                      Bar Bambino
                      Bar Crudo
                      BarbersQ
                      Bay Wolf
                      Betelnut
                      Bistro Aix
                      Bistro Don Giovanni
                      Bistro Jeanty
                      Bix
                      Bo's Barbecue and Catering
                      Bocadillos
                      Bouchon
                      Boulevard
                      Buckeye Roadhouse
                      Cafe La Haye
                      Cafe Majestic
                      Canteen
                      Cav
                      Chez Panisse
                      Chow/Park Chow
                      Coco500
                      Coi
                      Cucina
                      Cyrus
                      Delfina
                      Dopo
                      Dosa
                      Ducca
                      Farmhouse Inn & Restaurant
                      Firefly
                      Flora
                      Fonda
                      Foreign Cinema
                      French Laundry
                      Gary Danko
                      Greens
                      Hog Island Oyster Co.
                      Incanto
                      Jai Yun
                      Jardiniere
                      Junnoon
                      Kaygetsu
                      Koi Palace
                      Kokkari Estiatorio
                      La Folie
                      Laiola
                      Manresa
                      Martini House
                      Masa's
                      Michael Mina
                      Nick's Cove
                      Nopa
                      O Chame
                      O Izakaya
                      Oliveto
                      One Market
                      Perbacco
                      Pesce
                      Picco/Pizzeria Picco
                      Piperade
                      Pizzaiolo
                      Plumed Horse
                      Poggio
                      Poleng Lounge
                      Quince
                      Range
                      Redd
                      Rivoli
                      Rosso Pizzeria & Wine Bar
                      Rubicon
                      Shanghai 1930
                      Silks
                      Slanted Door
                      Slow Club
                      SPQR
                      Spruce
                      Sushi Ran
                      Swan Oyster Depot
                      Tartine
                      Terra
                      Terzo
                      The Matterhorn Swiss Restaurant
                      Ton Kiang
                      Town Hall
                      Ubuntu
                      Va de Vi
                      Vik's Chaat Corner
                      Wood Tavern
                      Yank Sing
                      Yoshi's San Francisco
                      Zarzuela
                      Zuni Cafe

                      3 Replies
                      1. re: farmersdaughter

                        I can't understand why Matterhorn is included in the top 100.

                          1. re: wineguy7

                            I used to go frequently, and always wonder if it's any good these days when I drive by. I think they've received other decent reviews as well. The names started popping up again.

                        1. I really have to get busy...I've been to only 10 of the 100 (although I have been to one of them approximately 1500 times).

                          1 Reply
                          1. re: Nina

                            You can't keep up. I was once at around 45 one year...and then the next year, not so much. I once really thought about going for 100 but then even knocking off 45, you'd still be eating out once a week...doable except for location and then I realized, I didn't really want to eat at some of those places regardless.

                            I mean Matterhorn?

                            The list is what it is...still the drop off of reasonably price places is a bit of a drag. It's understandable given the rise in restaurant quality. Still the range of what use to be covered has been flattened. It would be interesting to get a break down of the list on similarities, full bar, palette range, etc. From first glance it seems there's a fat part of the curve there that's semi-similar or within range.

                          2. jardiniere gets some love from the chron. i haven't been back since the renovation but i do recall good service, good food. the potato gnocchi was superb. maybe the best i've ever had.

                            1. As usual, the Japanese places known primarily for their sushi that made the list are not the best in the Bay Area.

                              1. Bauer discusses the ins and outs in his blog today.

                                http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/s...

                                Re the Dining Room, "Is Ron Siegel in or out? It looked like he was taking over Myth, yet he's still cooking at the hotel. But for how long?" In that case, why he didn't drop Pescheria, which had already announced it was closing?

                                Re Tres Agaves, I don't think the "food quality ... plummeted." By the time Bauer revisited, Joseph Manzare and his core staff had moved over to Pescheria. My guess is that none of the B-team left at Tres Agaves recognized Bauer when he revisited, so he got the same erratic food and service the rest of us had been getting since it opened.

                                5 Replies
                                1. re: Robert Lauriston

                                  He did drop Pescheria, he says so in the blog:

                                  "As I mentioned in my introduction to the 2008 Top 100 restaurants, I was faced with a dilemma: I actually wrote up 107 restaurants, all of which I thought deserved a place on the list. My life was made a little easier when I discovered that Pescheria closed on Saturday night, leaving only six. One went back into the Top 100, leaving five to stew over."

                                  And Pescheria is not on the Top 100 list.

                                  1. re: farmersdaughter

                                    Pescheria was on the online list when I looked at it Saturday, and his intro said 18 new places, which the blog updated to 19. Is it in the print edition?

                                    1. re: Robert Lauriston

                                      No, not in the print edition - I checked the newspaper and it's not there. Very weird.

                                      1. re: Robert Lauriston

                                        Looks like the "Sorted by Cuisine" list was not updated properly online - probably an earlier version got onto the website by mistake. http://sf.eater.com/archives/2008/04/...

                                    2. re: Robert Lauriston

                                      Another place I disagree with Bauer: Cesar (Piedmont) vs. Laiolo, I think Cesar wins on every count: food, wine list, service, price. Laiolo's the nice neighborhood spot, Cesar's worth a detour.

                                    3. Some more explanations from Bauer on why certain restaurants didn't make the cut:

                                      http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/s...

                                      7 Replies
                                      1. re: Robert Lauriston

                                        I'd be more interested in his justification for some of the places that did!

                                        1. re: Ruth Lafler

                                          His reviews usually make it pretty clear.

                                          1. re: Robert Lauriston

                                            Not comparatively, though, which is what matters when you're making decisions about what does and doesn't make it on the list. In other words, it's not clear to me why he dropped La Taqueria (which he considered good enough for the list before, regardless of anyone else's opinion) and left on some places as ordinary as, let's say, Rivoli.

                                            1. re: Ruth Lafler

                                              Look at the star ratings:

                                              Rivoli: 3 food / 3 service / 3 ambience / 3 overall

                                              La Taqueria: 2 / 1.5 / 1.5 / 2.5 overall

                                              As he noted, La Taqueria's on their Bargain Bites list, so it's not like he's banishing it to obscurity by removing it from the Top 100.

                                              1. re: Robert Lauriston

                                                Well then, I'd have to disagree with him about Rivoli. :-)

                                                Maybe it was an exceptional restaurant 20 years ago, but it's pretty humdrum these days. Bauer claims to have revisited it every year (although I find it odd that he apparently goes the same week every year), but he hasn't actually re-reviewed it since 1996.

                                                1. re: Ruth Lafler

                                                  The Chron doesn't usually publish updates unless a place goes uphill or downhill. Makes sense since there are so many new places to cover. Top 100 capsules get updated annually.

                                                  I'm not sure what you mean by "same week every year," the dishes in the capsules sound like different seasons to me:

                                                  2008: slow-braised pot roast with wild mushrooms ... chopped romaine with crisp bits of pita, dollops of feta and shavings of cucumber; and a ragout of crab and shrimp with a shallot and thyme souffle

                                                  2007: slow-braised lamb shank with eggplant, feta and tomato gratin, and green beans with mint aioli

                                                  2006: grilled leg of lamb is served with garlic and mustard butter and bacon and shallot jus; blue nose bass is enhanced with gazpacho vinaigrette and a scallion and olive aioli

                                                  1. re: Robert Lauriston

                                                    Ah. I think I misunderstood what the dates referred to under "revisited." At any rate, I find it hard to believe that he revisits well over 100 restaurants a year in addition to the ones he visits multiple times for reviews (not to mention all that pizza). For all we know, he's taking the names of the dishes off the menu on the website.

                                      2. I don't understand why he likes Chow so much. Yeah, the prices are kind of low for organic fare, but the menu is boring and the execution is mediocre.

                                        17 Replies
                                        1. re: Morton the Mousse

                                          Chow was a bit of a revelation...about 10 years ago. I still like it but I have to agree and wonder why it makes his Top 100. My guess is it reminds him of the midwest or something.

                                          1. re: Morton the Mousse

                                            And voilà, Bauer's blog entry today, "Should Bo's and Chow be in the Top 100?":

                                            http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/blogs/s...

                                            From that blog entry: "I agree that the chicken can be dry at Bo's and the service spotty, but the brisket and ribs are good enough that it makes the flaws seem like endearing blips."

                                            From the Top 100 capsule: "[Bo's] meat - whether it's beef brisket, pork ribs, links or chicken - is perfectly done with just the right amount of smoke from oak and applewood logs that enhances without dominating."

                                            1. re: Robert Lauriston

                                              I can't fault Bauer for this:

                                              "However, I do try to create a list that has a broad appeal and cuts across price categories, which is becoming increasingly harder in today's economy."

                                              I can fault him for laziness of not looking elsewhere and not going beyond a specfic comfort zone (the middle western palette).

                                              1. re: ML8000

                                                Yeah, but if you approach the list from a different point of view, it can have some value even if it's not something that a lot of Chowhounders would find valuable. Just look at the list and say, "where would be a good place to eat [take someone to eat] if the diners had Bauer's palate?" Unfortunately his palate is not representative of a lot of ours, but maybe it is of the people living in the Bay Area generally.

                                                1. re: farmersdaughter

                                                  I think the list has value. I read it and I use it as a reference and I understand how to read between the lines and a critics biases. You can't please everyone but the Bay Area is way more diverse and sophisicated then what he likes.

                                                  At one point the list was much more diverse and open, if not a bit uneven but hey, that's the Bay Area. A little funk and weirdness has always been part of the deal...or maybe that died with the dot com boom and bust and the real estate prices. Oh well...so it goes.

                                                  1. re: ML8000

                                                    I agree with you, I was just trying to point out that if you look at the list a different way it can have some value. It's unfortunate that it doesn't represent the true diversity of the Bay Area food scene (other than Bauer's artificial diversity by including restaurants like Chow on the list in an effort to show economic diversity), but other than either not buying the Chron or writing a letter to the editor, there's not a whole lot one person can do. Which is why I take the list (and other critic's reviews) with a huge grain of salt.

                                                    1. re: farmersdaughter

                                                      Okay, I get it. Sorry if I misread. I do agree...a huge grain or a pound of salt. On a wider note, the list points to a trends in the Bay Area. Read over a few years and how the list evolves is interesting.

                                                      1. re: farmersdaughter

                                                        The Top 100 list is mostly the same usual suspects you'll get from most other guidebooks.

                                                        The arbitrary cutoff at 100 means he's leaving out places that are just as good. The Chron's advanced search gives a more complete list.

                                                    2. re: farmersdaughter

                                                      The editor of the Chronicle's food section didn't force out Stan Sesser and Patricia Unterman in order to hire Michael Bauer because he believed that Bauer's much narrower taste was more representative of the average Chronicle reader's.

                                                      He did that because he is Michael Bauer.

                                                      1. re: Robert Lauriston

                                                        I don't understand. Who was Michael Bauer before he became the food critic at the Chron? I don't have any clue as to where he came from - am I supposed to know?

                                                        1. re: farmersdaughter

                                                          Michael Bauer was the editor of the food section and fired two really good critics so that he could be head critic.

                                                          At least that's my impression of what RL is saying.

                                                          1. re: farmersdaughter

                                                            Michael Bauer has noted in his reviews that he's from the Midwest and the son of a butcher. I think this explains part of his perspective and likes and his palette reference. It's also been noted he enjoys the company of men and if a restauranteur sees him at his place, having young and freshly scrubbed male waitstaff serve him often helps the review. Apparently most in the restaurant biz know what he looks like.

                                                            1. re: farmersdaughter

                                                              Michael Bauer grew was the food editor and restaurant critic for the Dallas Times Herald before the Chron hired him to head its food section in 1996.

                                                              To me, Patricia Unterman and Stan Sesser were two of the three best critics who have worked around here in my adult life. (The third is Jonathan Kauffman, who left the East Bay Express for Seattle Weekly.) Bauer's not as bad as, say, Jim Wood, but San Francisco deserves better. As a critic, he has improved somewhat on the job, but I think his narrower taste has been bad for the local restaurant scene.

                                                              Bauer's recent update review of Michael Mina, in which he gave it four stars, is a classic example of what's wrong with his work. In his 830 words, he finds room to name the designer, gloss the chef de cuisine's résumé, count the number of restaurants the eponymous executive chef has opened in the last three months, and describe the color of the waiters' outfits, but, except for one sentence, the descriptions of the food could have been written by someone who sat at the table without eating.

                                                              http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article...

                                                              Full disclosure, for the past two years I've been a part-time reviewer for the SF Weekly, so sort of a competitor. But I don't think my opinion would be any different if I weren't.

                                                              1. re: Robert Lauriston

                                                                Then why do you guys give this guy so much credit?

                                                                Personally, I find regular people's opinions much more valuable. Thank you Chowhounds!

                                                                1. re: chemchef

                                                                  Unfortunately, whether or not chowhounds approve of Bauer, he has a tremendous amount of influence on the local dining scene, down to the fact that restaurants put dishes on their menus that will appeal to his known tastes. And since San Francisco food trends often spread to other parts of the country, he's influencing what almost anyone who is eating in a contemporary American restaurant is eating. The ubiquity of beet salad with goat cheese (which I've seen on menus all over the country) is apparently due to the fact that when that combo was first introduced, Michael Bauer liked it.

                                                                  Here's link to the archived article "Eating in Michael Bauer's Town" which provides some insight: http://web.archive.org/web/2003061805...

                                                                2. re: Robert Lauriston

                                                                  Too late to correct a typo in my post above: Bauer was hired by the Chron in 1986, not 1996.

                                                                  1. re: Robert Lauriston

                                                                    It's getting better, but I find that problem fixating on the non-food descriptions to be pretty much across the board with reviews in SF. The shorter the review, the less the talk of the food. Why someone would waste their word count talking about the industrialized rustic interior is beyond me.

                                                                    Whenever I grab a publication for help picking out a dinner spot, I routinely find myself breaking into laughter from the flowery prose about the hue of the walls, followed by some travel anecdote from the cuisines region. It's as if the restaurants publicist phoned it in, or they secretly wish they were a travel reporter instead.

                                                      2. One general inconsistency here:

                                                        The Chron's reviews include ratings from zero to four stars. There are 138 restaurants with three, three-and-a-half, or four stars. Obviously not all of them can make the top 100, but how can any restaurant with less than three stars make the cut?

                                                        The logical explanation would be that he's looking for a modicum of diversity in price and location, but one of the 2.5-star places is Bar Bambino.