Hi I am leaving in a couple of months for 10 days in Guadalajara with a school friend [his first visit to explore his roots] and I want us to eat well.
Will you help me?
I am interested in reccomendations for:
- the Fondas in Mercado Libertad
- Tortas Ahogadas
- Carne en su Jugo
- Alta Cocina
- Street Food
Also soliciting reccomendations for the Tequila region and worthwhile nearby day or 2 trips.
Many kind thanks.
What, now that I've moved to Morelia you're going to Guadalajara, where I used to live? Hmph!
I wouldn't bother with the fondas at Mercado Libertad.
Tortas ahogadas: behind the Sears building downtown.
Carne en su jugo: Karne Garibaldi, at the corner of Calle Garibaldi and José Clemente Orozco. Don't bother going anywhere else, this is the Holy Grail.
Birria: El Chololo, south of the airport just past the El Salto turnoff. It's the best birria in the world, accept no substitutes.
Mollotes: no idea
Alta cocina: Polibio on Av. Mexico at Homero. Don't miss the fried jamaica blossoms appetizer.
Street food: I wish you were going to GDL this coming week. I'm driving to GDL to take the food editor of one of the city's leading newspapers on a street food tour on the 11th and you could join us.
DO NOT MISS Tacos Los Alteños for the best tacos al pastor you ever ate.
Look down a few posts for info re the Tequila Express. It's pricey...about 900 pesos per person...but you might like it.
Read this old thread, too. http://www.chowhound.com/topics/322690. Just please ignore the recommendation for Santo Coyote. The restaurant is beautiful, like a movie set, but the food is beyond bad. Many of the other recs on that thread are for high-end places (Cocina 88, Sacromonte, etc) that are excellent. Cocina 88 is mostly Argentine cuisine, Sacromonte is lovely classical Mexican cooking. I've eaten at Cocina 88 three times. Two out of three were fabulous, the third was awful. You might love its sister restaurant, La O. Fixed price at 130 pesos plus drinks, and everything I've eaten there is marvelous. Sacromonte can be marvelous and can be mediocre. The roquefort cheese soup is incredible...
Why don't you hop on an ETN bus and come visit Morelia for a couple of days? It's only 4 hours over here...email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
Alex, take Cristina's advice. She knows really good places in Guadalajara. I've eaten at a lot of the places she mentioned above, and having eaten with you, they're right up your alley.
Do visit the Mercado Libertad even if you don't eat there, tho Cristina and I did have a torta ahogada variation there that was very good. I think you'd like just visiting it for the experience. Your friend may not be interested in doing market visits, but you could visit the Abastos market by yourself if need be. This is the main commerical market and for a food person it is an interesting place to go. Cristina took me there serveral years ago on my very first trip and I remember trying to see everything at once and being almost (but not quite) overwhelmed by the sheer diversity and bustle. There was just so much to see and so many new and different things. There are a lot of fondas at the Abastos as well, and IIRC, Cristina did say that she and a friend of hers would eat there on occasion.
I know you love fish and if you're going to have any opportunity to cook some meals, you might also enjoy a trip out to the fish market in Zapopan. It's a block in length and has a pretty decent variety of fish. It's bigger than anything we've got here in San Diego, in fact it kind or reminded me of the fish markets that used to line the harbor before the tuna fleet dwindled and Seaport Village was developed.
I strongly urge you to go to El Chololo, knowing how much you like goat, you will LOVE this. You'll also love Karne Garibaldi and you will love, love, love Los Atenos. In fact, I got a chuckle out of your post over on the CA board about your recent taco experience at El Gordo. The thought actually crossed my mind that it was too bad you couldn't try the tacos - and the experience - at Los Altenos. Write to Cristina and ask her how to find the fish taco place, it blows away *anything* we've got here in SD, including MG. If you're not arriving at 6:30 in the morning, the fish taco place should be your first stop, if it isn't El Chololo (which is on the road to the airport)
10 days is a long time for GDL, you should consider going to Morelia (and Patzcuaro if street food is your objective) for a few days. If you fly out of Tijuana you can fly non-stop into GDL and back home out of MLM.
I am so glad you're finally getting the opportunity to visit Mexico. If it's at all possible you do need to find a way to meet up with Cristina, she's a wealth of information about the food.
DD, thanks for the nudge about the Tortas Locas booth, on the main (bottom) floor at Mercado Libertad. Kare, don't miss this place. It's not on the first floor, where most of the fondas are, but on the main floor. Ask any vendor on the main floor to point you toward the four-booth Tortas Locas complex. And if the agua fresca of the day happens to be ciruela (plum), get it.
Be sure to ask me about the fish tacos DD recommends. I can't wait to have another one--it's one of the places I'm taking the newspaper.
Email me! I will gladly take you to Pátzcuaro and show you around Morelia, you will flip out.
And thanks, DD, for the props.
Wow I knew I could rely on my Mexican friends!
Ay, man that sucks you just moved away, cristina. :(
I will try to talk my way into a trip to Morelia as It would be an honor to meet the famous Crisitina! & I will email you!
Fried Jamaica blossoms...the thought causes me have tears of joy.
I recalled DD's post on Garibaldi on her much missed blog. I noticed at my mercados they started even canning beans and cholirio.
La Chata piques my interest - do you guys give your blessings to the place?
We are actually going to be staywing with two different aunts - so I hope I get to buy some fish! I must check this market out considering my livlihood.
We are flying out of TJ on aviagax (i think thats the name?) I bought the tickets a few hours ago. I am excited out of my mind!
Any regional pan dulce, desserts to be had?
I cant wait to try the cremas and quesos.
You must try Tejuino in Guadalajara. Maybe Cristina can guide you to where you can find the best, but I enjoyed the Tejuino at El Polo Norte a few years ago. It's a fermented corn drink that is served with lemon sorbet and it is a regional specialty. I haven't found any in the Bay Area.
El Polo Norte is a local ice cream shop and if you make it there you must try the guanabana helado. I haven't had anything like it again.
Late night Tacos de tripa at Tacos Minerva/ at Minerva Circle (glorieta). Ask for "doraditos", crunchy chitterlings. Also, program to go to the Santa Tere street market on Sunday morning, and go to the adjacent market building and have quesadillas estilo santa Tere. Deep fried masa turnover with cheese filling, served with tomatillo sauce and sour cream. To die for!
Hey KR, just got back from GDL on Sunday. I mostly did recon due to my work schedule interferring with my food quest.I ended up at Karnes Garibaldi because it was next to the hotel and we were pressed for time.Great time, but I was disappointed I wasn't able to get away and try something new.They had Indio at KG!
I wanted to go to La Tequila, formerly La Destileria, to check out their tequila selection, so maybe you can complete my mission.Also, I was given some good recs for La Divina Tentacion which is near La Tequila.Birrieria Cocula was lauded by the locals "para la cruda."
I also brought back a new tequila, Esperanto, which I tried at the hotel bar and had to have.The duty free shops at GDL have a good selection of tequilas if you don't want to risk checking liquor in your bags.