Some Pepe's Pizzaology

[smoky]

We recently got a postcard in the mail with coupons for the Manchester location of Frank Pepe's which has a fascinating photograph I hadn't seen before of Frank in front of the Wooster St. location in what looks to be the 40s or 50s. (There's neon in the windows and a 40s-vintage clock. The beautiful sign above the shop, which is reminiscent of the pub signs in Ireland, reads simply, "Frank Pepe.")

But what's most interesting about the shot is that, with a magnifying glass, you can read the menu sitting in the window, and it reads:

Frank Pepe
Pies made to order

Anchovies and tomato
Bacon, cheese, and tomato
Cream cheese and tomato [Is that mozzarella or ricotta, perhaps?]
Chicken, cheese, and tomato
Salame, cheese, and tomato
Cheese and tomato pie with onions
Mushroom pie
Clams on the half shell

Beer, soda, and Silex coffee

On the clock, there is lettering reading:

We serve clams on the half shell

What's interesting about this to me is that they were apparently serving clams, but not clam pizza. Also, I happen to love Pepe's chicken pizza (white, with onions and spinach), but I always thought that chicken must be a recent addition to the menu. Well, it looks like they've been at it for at least 50 or 60 years, if not longer.

[danieljdwyer]

There is good pizza just about everywhere. You just have to look a little harder, or drive a little farther, in some areas than you do in others.
As for "real pizza" not having things like chicken, pineapple, ham, or other "trendy nonsense", and objecting to these things due to being a traditionalist: who's traditions? I've had more than a few very good pizzas in the Napoli region that had ham or chicken on them. Good food isn't about following rules based on how you saw it done as a child. Otherwise we'd all still be eating raw mastadon meat (and things like pizza would not exist). If it tastes good, why not eat it?

[sodagirl]

The photo has been enhanced...look at the way the signs read...it might be old work...but almost any advertisement that uses an old photo does it.

I heard the Manchester location of Pepe's is not appealing to the local crowd as much as they would like to think...hense the $5 coupons.,,,the rent at the mall is exorbitant...and business inthat area is very tough right now...

I still think the best new place for pizza is Mulberry St in Manchester near the country club ...it is all take out but the line there last Friday night was huge...it;s a parking nightmare but they make a BBQ pie with smoked pulled pork that is exceptional...you have to ask for the pork...they don't always have it...but are trying it out as a new item for their new place on Main St...supposed to move in June...tthe regular cheese well done is wonderful...the dough is as good as anyone in the state...try it.

I ate at Modern last week for lunch ...pretty darn good...

[BiscuitBoy]

Pizza was really a peasant food, that has become popular, ala risotto, polenta, fagiola, should I go on? Hence no expensive nonsense. But you're right Dan, "If it tastes good, why not eat it."

[ratbuddy]

I love Harry's Bishop's Corner (and the old location next to Luna, though not quite as much) and find Mulberry passable, though the service stinks. When I heard Pepe's was coming to Manchester, I was happy to get a chance to try it. It stunk. There were only 2 tables with anyone at them, and 2 other people waiting for takeout. I waited 5 minutes in front of the register before the (seemingly) only employee besides the cooks even acknowledged me. The pizza stunk too. The crust was way too salty and undercooked on the bottom. The cheese on top was burnt, and not in a good way like Harry's does.

Seems like they figured their name was enough, and they'd stay busy based on that alone.

I haven't been back, and continue to get Harry's when I feel like driving, and Vegas Blvd (decent pie, needs a bit of refinement) when I don't.

[sodagirl]

I agre on all points about Pepe's...tradition is not manufactured and it seems that the skill needed to work the ovens has not translated from NH...I had one undercooked on the bottom and over cooked on top as well...and I have a pretty good idea of the difference.

For me service at Mulberry has always been friendly and fast...the place is so busy that the people in front have to juggle the phones and takeout...and it is a real bee hive on Fridays...and the parking us just a nightmare....but I have never waited...considering the shortcommings every business has...the food there is very good and I'll give them a pass on the service ...try the ham and brie on ficcaccio sometime when you are bored with the pizza...it is tremendous.

[ratbuddy]

The problem I've had at Mulberry is going in to pick up my order, and having to stand there and wait while the single counterperson answers several phone calls in a row. My pizza is just sitting there on the oven, getting older.... And pizza in this style doesn't age well! If they would just get a dedicated phone person, I would have no issue with the place.

[BiscuitBoy]

Does Pepe's Manchester use a brick oven? I've had a similar experience in the Fairfield location. Where is Mulberry? Is there a dining room?

[howaboutthat]

Yes, brick oven modeled after the original. I cannot speak to the experiences of others, but our visits suggest that the Manchester Pepe's has gotten things in gear.

[ratbuddy]

Mulberry is right off 384, take the Main Street exit, turn away from downtown Manchester on Main Street, it's maybe 1/2 mile up the road on the right. No dining area, I think they have a picnic table outside though.

I wouldn't bother unless you just have to try it. They used to have some amazing onion rings, but took them off the menu for some reason.. It used to be a delivery branch of Randy's Wooster Street Pizza, but the franchise owner had some disagreement with Randy and renamed the place, while keeping a very similar menu. The pizza is about the same.

[BiscuitBoy]

I wonder if someone is having some Photoshop fun. I have never, ever seen chicken or cream cheese (?) on pizza, until the last few years, and moving out of New Haven. I don't care for it, but I know Pepe's white clam has always been around, and a big attraction for years. It's also a mystery why nobody seems to able to make a good pizza north of Wallingford. There's Italians in Middletown, right? Hartford too....So why are their pies so bad? I'll have to try the Manchester location and see for myself.

[brookerme]

My father would often bring us home a Pepe's pie with chicken and I'm talking late 1950's & early 1960's.

[hallrs]

There's excellent pizza in Hartford on Farmington... Harry's (my preference) and Luna are about 3 storefronts apart. Both serve great white pies (prefer clam, bacon and garlic).

You won't be disappointed vs. Pepe's.

[howaboutthat]

We've always enjoyed Harry's and Luna, but neither serves a white clam pizza quite as good as Pepe's, including the Manchester Pepe's (which we ate at about two hours ago).

[Jestner]

I think Harry's is a solid pizza and the best I've come across in the greater Hartford area. It is certainly not a Pepe's clone in style - but it is indeed good (yet expensive). I wasn't overly impressed with Luna or Barb's (on Park Ave in the old Friendlys)

On topic - I'd be shocked if someone took the time to photoshop in, what would essentially be jokes, for the purposes of an advertisement in which a magnifying glass was needed to decode the "jokes".

[BiscuitBoy]

It's just the kind of subtle thing nerds are into. I'm shocked every day at the countless spam and virus hacks I have to monitor. Real pizza doesn't have chicken, pineapple, cream cheese, ham, or any other of that trendy nonsense. But being a traditionalist, I may have blocked out the the chicken thing from my youth.

I have tried Harry's, which wasn't bad, but the service was awful. The dough/crust also seemed to have that generic, mass produced quality of greek pizza parlors. Maybe it was an off night. I don't remember the price. The Luna near me, however is spendy. It must just be what you're used to. If you grow up eating bad pizza, you don't know any better. If you grow up in the New Haven area, you go back there for good pizza

[Jestner]

Interesting - all the times I had Harry's (almost always takeout as I didnt care for eating there) - the crust always tilted towards being too crisp/crunchy/non-elastic than greek/bready. Either way - Harry's main issue is indeed their crust. But I still think its a solid choice when up in that area. Its a slightly different style - and thats totally fine. It'd be boring if every pizza place was trying to clone New Haven pizza styles exactly. That said, my preference still is for various places in New Haven County.