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Mar 21, 2008 08:09 AM

Vienna, Salzburg and Prague

Looking for local places, not too terribly touristy.
We do have 2 dinners already in Salzburg. Ikarus at Hangar 7 and St Peter for the Mozart dinner.

Anything else that really stands out? We are looking for mostly inexpensive places, but we could handle 1 expensive dinner in Vienna and one in Prague, as we are already spending quite a bit in Salzburg.

Looking for a great pub in Prague that is off the beaten path and again, not in the heart of tourist land.

Also, that Strudl place that's supposed to have the best in Prague at Jeseniova 29, how far from Charles bridge is that? Walkable?

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  1. Don't spend a fortune in Vienna. It's not Paris, so the most expensive will be disappointing and not be worth what you will spend. Stick with what the Viennese do best. Go to Plachutta for the most amazing tafelspitz. If you want one more great place in Salzburg, go to Goldener Hirsch. Great game dishes, and the best Salzburger Nockerln. As for Prague, there have been several openings since we were there in late 2006, including Gordon Ramsay, so maybe the dining options are better than when we were there, but I will recommend one place that was very good and good value for the money, Vinárna U Maltézských rytíru (At Knights of Malta).

    We had a very good meal there,and it was not expensive. The pheasant was particularly notable. U Cizku was also good, if simpler and much less expensive. Nothing fancy, but tasty and fairly cheap.

    12 Replies
    1. re: rrems

      Well, if you recommend Plachutta and Goldener Hirsch it is most likely that you had in Vienna some "expensive dinner" at Korso, Anna Sacher or Drei Husaren, and were disappointed. No wonder...

      OTOH, the most expensive menu degustation nowadays is Jörg Wörthers Tuesday menu, which is (only) EUR 165 for eight magnificent courses !

      And you can also eat excellent inventive food in Vienna for much less: our favorite is still Zum Finsteren Stern

      In Salzburg I would neither go to Goldener Hirsch nor to Hangar 7: the best place there is still the Pfefferschiff.

      1. re: Sturmi


        I have read your posts for a long time and I know your recommendations are solid, but 165 euros is much more than I have ever spent anywhere in Europe, including 4 restaurants in Spain that each have 3 Michelin stars, and 2 that have one star and were all superb. In France, there are countless places also. Yes we did make the mistake of going to Drei Husaren for lunch, and it was awful. Bad food, bad service. We also went to Morwald, which was decent but overpriced compared to similar places in Paris. My point was just what you said, that one can eat well in Vienna for much less, e.g. the tafelspitz at Plachutta. But I would still avoid the "haute cuisine". I just looked at the menu for Pfefferschiff, and while I trust your opinion in regard to quality, they do not have the selection of game dishes we had at Goldener Hirsch which is why we chose to go there.

        1. re: rrems

          Well, you know, these 165 EUR are for a small crowd of enthusiastics who really want to have the chance to eat one of Jörg Wörthers amazing degustation menus. This is not the usual price level here in Vienna: currently the maximum is 105 EUR for the six-course dinner at Steirereck, and this includes (now, finally) an exceptional dining experience, as well as the service charge.

          These two prices reflect the top range here in Vienna. And I know that this is NOT above the usual price range of three star restaurants in Europe ! As you know the top range in Paris is e.g. 360 EUR for a menu at Alain Ducasse. But of course, AD is another league...

          Coming back to Vienna: The tafelspitz at Plachutta is overpriced. You can get similar quality at many smaller places. What we like about Plachutta is that it does not close in the afternoon, so it is very conenient to go there on a Saturday afternoon after shopping in the city. But the atmosphere and ambiente at Plachutta are unsuitable for a nice and "gemütlich" dinner. Vienna is now full of small places with very inventive and reasonable priced food, and it is not necessary to spend an evening at Plachutta...

          1. re: Sturmi

            Hate to resurrect such an old post, but Sturmi, could you please name names on the restaurants that you suggest for great Tafelspitz over Plachutta? We've been there twice. Liked it the first time, not so much the second, but certainly intend to have Tafelspitz somewhere, so where? Thanks.

            1. re: JmVikmanis

              I like Tafelspitz at Altwiener Gastwirtschaft Schilling. This is a venerable old "Beisl" on Burggasse, and they serve good Wiener Schnitzel, Tafelspitz and other Viennese classics. Nothing fancy, but good value for your money !!


              There are many similar places all over town. In the first district: Ofenloch, Pfudl, Zu den 3 Hacken, Müllerbeisl, and ... Beim Czaak !

              If you want to sit outdoors I recommend Eckel in Sievering or Pfarrwirt in Heiligenstadt. Both may cost as much as Plachutta, but offer more "Viennese ambiente" ...

              1. re: Sturmi

                Thanks for the reply. I'll try the Schilling. Pix sure make the food look wonderful. we'll be there in mid to late September so the suggestions for outdoor seating may serve us well as well. Any chance that with your knowledge of the Austria/Germany area you can provide some recommendations for good food (all price levels) in Nuremburg/Furth and Wurzburg? They're on the itinerary for the same trip.

                1. re: JmVikmanis

                  Sorry, have not been there for many years. Generally you will find there good, basic type food at many places, reasonably priced but nothing exceptionally inventive, and a few more expensive but very good gourmet places.


                  Just explore this website, OTOH some rudimentary knownledge of German language is required...

                  1. re: JmVikmanis

                    JmVikmanis -

                    For Wurzburg, the really great place to go if you like wine and rather gourmet food is the Weingut am Stein up in the hills on the north end of town. They have wine tasting in the day, and serve dinner at the patio at night. The patio basically overlooked the entire town and you can see the fortress from there. It's a 20 minute walk from the Ibis we stayed in, but longer from center of town.

                    The food is a mix of traditional with a twist of french med. The plate sizes were small, so order at least 3 courses if doing ala carte. They have 4, and 5 courses fixed price also, but we didn't do that. I think the price was about 50 euros for the 4 course one.

                    The other place we dined at was Juliusspital, at the outdoor terrace. The food was solid, traditional food. Tasty, but not spectacular. They had a special matjes (herring) menu in German for June, but regular menu has an English translation.

                    1. re: notmartha

                      Photos of food at Weingut am Stein. They have a complimentary amuse of cheeses, olives, etc. that are more substantial than most.

                      1. re: notmartha

                        comp cheese spread, pan seared duck, dessert

                  2. re: Sturmi

                    We went to Beim Czaak twice during our trip last week and had both the Tafelspitz and the classic Wiener Schnitzel. They were both very good - probably the best versions of both dishes we sampled in our Germany/Austria trip. The Tafelspitz was served in a bowl with the broth, which was nice, and came with a very good rosti.

                    They have a little outside seating area in the little triangular square that's very nice and amazingly tranquil for a street location. We liked the place so much we went back for a second day - was going to try Figlmuller but it seems very touristy in comparison.

                    Beim Czaak is cash only.

                    1. re: notmartha

                      pictures of the cordon bleu, wienner schnitzel and the spinach dumplings.