Suggestions for a real French experience?

[roxlet]

I am about to take my 12 year-old who is a true gourmet, to Montreal for a few days over spring break. He has been to Paris once about 4 years ago, and since he is now fascinated by all things French and studying the language, he said that he would love to go to a cafe and a restaurant and order in French. I have not been to Montreal in more years than I care to remember, but I always loved it and think that he would too. I would appreciate any suggestions anyone would have for restaurants and cafes in Montreal that would make us feel as if we were 3000 miles away. Also, I remember going to a Cabana Sucre up in the Gaspe, and I wonder if there might be a Cabana Sucre experience we could have closer to Montreal proper.

[roxlet]

We arrived in Montreal yesterday, and we ate at L'Espress last night. The ambiance was divine, but I think that my son ordered better than I did. He had a fabulous leek soup and the quail, which were delicious. To start, I ordered the salade frisse avec lardons, and I have to say that I was disappointed. Instead of lardon, there were little pieces of ham and small die of what seemed to be gruyere cheese with coins of sauteed potato. Although the poached egg on top added a nice richness, the dressing was a little bland. Not terrible, but a B- in my opinion. Then, attempting to exercise restraint and to have something a little light, I ordered the chicken breast with mustard sauce. The presentation was lovely, but the chicken breast was a bit over-cooked, and should have been flattened a bit. Unfortunately, the mustard sauce added little to the flavor. The vegetable accompaniment turned out to be steamed vegetables, and thought beautifully arranged, they had absolutely no flavor whatsoever. I'd give it a C for taste and a B+ for presentation. All this being said, we enjoyed being there though $100 after tax and tip seemed a little steep for the experience.

[finefoodie55]

How about staying at the Hotel Meridien (French Hotel Chain) eating at Bronte for an upscale experience and down the street on Ste Catherine at Restaurant Le Paris a real cusine classique restaurant in operation for over 35 years. You are adjacent to the downtown core but still out of the hustle and bustle. Cabanes a sucre are all out of town if you have a rental the place to go is Sucerie de la Montagne in Rigaud ( 40mi from Montreal) But if you can't go down the street from the Meridien to Atwater Market and buy a couple of "Sugar on Snow"sticks from the make shift Sugar Shack.

[Maximilien]

IMO, Bronte (as good as it is) should not be used as an example of a "french" experience in Montreal.

[roxlet]

I think we're staying at the Chateau l'Argoat (I haven't gotten a confirmation back yet so I'm not 100% certain) and that is on 524 Sherbrooke East, which they say on their web site is centrally located. However, I think it's out of the downtown, but I'm not sure. It's been so long and I don't have a good map right now. I am making note of all these restos, but if there is one near-by to this hotel, that's a help too...

[SnackHappy]

That's not a bad locaton. You'll be within walking distance of L'Express, Cocagne, Laloux, Pintxo, Au Pied de Cochon...

It's also next to Sherbrooke metro station so you'll have quick access to downtown, Chinatown and Old Montreal.

[francoislafreniere]

I think it's a great location. It's very much "centrally located". I second the mentioned restaurants, especially L'Express and Au Pied de Cochon (not an authentic French restaurant, per se, but a unique culinary experience) and may I add in the same vein La Montée de lait at 371, Villeneuve Est. It's also less of a French restaurant and more of a concept restaurant; every dish is appetizer-sized, and you choose 3 to 5 dishes to make your meal. And also, farther away but in the more francophone East, there's Detour Bistro on Beaubien and Iberville. They make an outstanding bavette de wapiti.

As far as cabane à sucre goes, around Montreal one of the best places is the rang des Continuations in St-Esprit that has a bunch of sugar shacks on it. I like La Petite coulée (http://www.coulee.ca), it's no-frills, but the size is just right and they have everything you would want from a sugar shack. As others have pointed out, cabane à sucre products are also easy to find in Montreal, and I've seen today they were out in full force at Marché Jean-Talon. Have a great trip!

[roxlet]

Thanks for the great suggestions! Can you tell me how long a drive it would be to a place like La Petite Coulee? Is this something that occupies an entire day, or is it just a couple of hours. We will only be in Montreal for 3 nights, so I want to make sure we use our time wisely. Also, if the food is mediocre (as some have suggested) is it a worthwhile use of a meal?

[francoislafreniere]

I don't drive, but I'd say the rang des Continuations is about an hour or so away from Montreal. You could go for lunch and plan an evening in the city (but maybe not another big meal). I wouldn't go as far as saying the food is mediocre, but it's definitely not fine cuisine; it's a logger's meal, and you go to cabane à sucre for the rustic experience.

That said, you can stay in the city and have similar experiences. Other users have wisely suggested La Binerie Mont-Royal as an alternative (make sure to get a dish with omelet and ham). There are plenty of maple products vendors at the Marché Jean-Talon (which is a great visit for a gourmet in Montreal: http://www.wizgoboutique.com/WWP_Jean...) where you can get "tire sur la neige" aka the taffy in the snow you're familiar with. And if you plan to go to Pied de cochon, you can get "oreilles de crisse" as an hors-d'oeuvre, which is pretty much the only thing that's hard to find outside of the cabane à sucre.

[emerilcantcook]

I stayed at the same hotel a few years ago, and I agree that it is a very good location to experience the city. All of the above suggestions are excellent. A little further south, on St Denis, there is also a branch of Juliette et Chocolat (where there is everything in chocolate including brownies, crepes, fondue, hot chocolate, profiteroles yada yada) if you are interested in getting a late night chocolate coma.

[roxlet]

My son, the chocoholic, will be in heaven! Thanks for the tip!

[Campofiorin]

If your son is into chocolate, then you must go to Suite 88 Chocolatier on St-Denis, north of Roy, it's within walking distance from your hotel, I'd say less than 15 mins. Their chocolate is fabulous and the hot chocolate luscious.

[Kebab]

My advice would be the P’Tit Plateau. Slightly overpriced but very authentic french cuisine.

[Venusia]

What about Au petit extra? They don't even bother with English on their website so there you go. You can have your son practice his French and translate the website for you. It's quite good too.
http://www.aupetitextra.com/petitextr...

[kpzoo]

Hiya, you're in luck because it's sugaring off season! (cabane à sucre) The thing is, will you have a car, because just about all the sugar shacks are outside the city. If you will, I can recommend a few places, there's also this thread to check out: http://www.chowhound.com/topics/483262

If you won't have a car, you may want to check out Binerie Mont-Royal for some hearty traditional Québécois food: 367 av. Mont-Royal Est, Montreal - 514-285-9078. It's a small place though, so I'd suggest going in the off-hours.

Have fun!

[emerilcantcook]

I think Binerie will be a more Quebecois experience than purely French. That doesn't mean it is bad (in fact is is perhaps the most appropriate food for this weather. mmm beans...), but I think the OP wants to feel as if s/he is in Paris.

There was a review about Le Paris in the papers a while ago...They compared to it to the old school bistros. Never been there though.

[kpzoo]

> I think Binerie will be a more Quebecois experience than purely French.

Right, the Binerie suggestion was only suggested in case the OP won't have a car to make out it to a cabane à sucre, which s/he'd also asked about. :-)

[roxlet]

I'll definitely have a car, so I'm happy to drive for a real experience!

[kpzoo]

Well with a vehicle, barring another blizzard (cross your fingers!) you'll have lots of options for sugaring off. For the last couple of years we've gone to La Famille Constantin in Ste-Eustache - http://www.constantin.ca . Very hearty, delicious fare, served family-style, in all-you-can-eat fashion. Be sure to ask for the "oeufs en sirop" (eggs in syrup) which are made to order. They have a cabin with "tire sur la neige" (taffy on the snow) along with more kétaine (kitchy-tacky) stuff like a little animal farm, puppet shows, etc. But we usually ignore that and go for a lovely walk through the maple forest to burn off some of the many, many calories just consumed. ;-) Sleigh rides are available too, as is a shop selling homemade maple products. Sigh. A group of us had to cancel a long-planned trip out there today due to the bad road conditions and buried vehicles, etc. (see attached)

In a completely different direction, I have heard good things about La Sucrerie de la Montagne in Rigaud - http://www.sucreriedelamontagne.com - though I've yet to go myself. Also, the prices are about $10 more than Constantin, wonder if it's worth it. I must admit I find the owner's facial hair somewhat creepy. ;-) .

Have fun! And remember that sugaring-off season usually ends mid-late April, not sure when your trip is planned but hopefully you'll make the cutoff.

[SnackHappy]

Sucrerie de la montagne seems awfully touristy to me. Like a maple syrup based theme park. I know they cater a lot to French tourists looking for something quaintly Québécois.

I liked the treatment they gave them on the Québec episode of No Reservations. Like some sort of weird cult. I guess the period costumes and movie set decor could appeal to some, but that's not what sugaring off is to me.

[roxlet]

Many years ago, when I was in college and had a French-Canadian boyfriend, we went to a Cabanne a Sucre in the Gaspe, which is where he was originally from. All I remember of it is the taffy in the snow, but I'm very interested to hear that you can have a meal there and that it's more than just taffy. Blizzard? Yikes. I may yet regret not going to Florida!!!

[christophe2795]

I myself am still looking for such a restaurant in Montreal (a real French experience, that is). One place I enjoy is Le Parchemin on Rue University between Maisonneuve and Ste-Catherine; it has very good French food (try a menu). Also, I like Au Bistro Gourmet, which you can find near the intersection of St-Denis and Duluth in the Plateau or on Rue St-Mathieu near Concordia (less expensive but not lacking in quality). Lunches are least expensive at both. See also http://www.chowhound.com/topics/483830

[Frenchie]

Isnt Le Bistro Gourmet now Le Petit Conti?

[SnackHappy]

Yes it is, Bistro Gourmet 2 closed last year (no big loss if you ask me) and has become Le Continental's temporary digs.

[Maximilien]

some restaurant suggestions :

L'express, but you need to be sitting at the bar and be served by Mr. Masson)
La Porte (on St-Laurent), french owned and operated french (duh) restaurant.
Le Mas de Oliviers (downtown, but I've not been there for a lloooonnngggg time).
Chez Alexandre (downtown).

but seeing you want a real french experience in Montreal, I think that waiters will switch to english if they see you are anglo; so you should tell them that you want to be addressed in French if possible, but sometimes, waiters have no patience to be a french teacher at the same time as beeing a waiter; especially if it's in the middle of a busy lunch of diner service.

I don't have a clue for Cabanne à Sucre; IMO, most of them serve below par food and offer none of the fun sugar-shack experience one would want to experience.

Have fun.

M

[roxlet]

Thanks for the tips Maximilien. Are any of these restaurants in an area we would want to stay in too?

[Maximilien]

yes. but there are not many hotels on (or near) the plateau; but that's for another forum since CW is not about hotels (unfortunatly).

My suggestions are at walking or easy bus/metro (safe) access from most downtown hotels.

[eoj]

There are tons of B&Bs or Gites in the Plateau that you can find online.