3 Star Michelin Restaurants in France
I am currently looking for a 3 star Michelin Restaurant to visit with a chef friend while I am in France this May. Last year we went to Guy Savoy and were blown away with the food and service alike. Does anyone have any suggestions and/or comments about the ones that I am currently looking at? Really looking for a something in the same style of Guy Savoy . . . classic techniques but innovative flavors and ideas.
Le Louis XV (first choice but currently on the waiting list)
La Maison de Marc Veyrat
Any other suggestions or must try's???
I don't think Gagnaire nor Astrance is like Guy Savoy; all are excellent in their own right. I hold Troisgros in Roanne in high esteem; there are modern dishes as well as the founding father/uncle's classics on the menu.
I'm here. I was busy moving.
Is the question about the best three stars in France? I would say Roellinger, l'Ambroisie, L'Arpège, Les Prés d'Eugénie, and indeed Le Relais Bernard Loiseau (in no particular order). To me Roellinger offer the best of today's cuisine, as well as a very atypical, unpretentious, restaurant experience. L'Ambroisie often offers purely orgasmic food. L'Arpège is minimalist and as such a temple to the glory of exceptional ingredients and cooking techniques, that surprises even experienced diners. Guérard is a forgotten, and yet active master, and he is one of those guys who just defines what modern fine dining is. I wrote about l'Ambroisie, Roellinger and Loiseau on my blog (also a bit about Gagnaire and l'Arpège, as well as a few other top restaurants);
I'd also like to say that if you liked the Savoy magic, well, no one beats him at that -- not the food, but the atmosphere, the way they have to make you feel unique and special and to transform a meal into a party or a ceremony.
But surely Troisgros is very close from Savoy in terms of the kind of restaurant experience. You really feel that they look after you and they have the most amazing, wine list, full of bargains. This is more about civilisation than food per se, but, hey, that's not bad either.
Gagnaire is a great artist, a strong personality, and almost no one ever has a truly great meal at his place (but those who did say they had their best meal ever. I tried seven times, did not get lucky, stopped trying), but you feel the inspiration and, here and there, some sheer genius. Also some plain bad stuff, almost each time.
L'Astrance is a new kind of 3* restaurant, 25 seats, open four days a week, run by two young men, no choice in the "surprise" menu and wine, exceptional ingredients prepared simply with sophisticated compositions of flavours. I personally lack the "wow" ingredient but one can't say that those two guys did not get it all right. I would describe it as an smart, young, friendly, nice restaurant.
La maison de Marc Veyrat -- this is among the most innovative in the selection (along with l'Arnsbourg and Gagnaire). His absolute technical mastering should be highlighted. His innovations are often opening ways for everyday cooking, and that is something that can be said of few chefs today. The other thing is that when Veyrat calls his menu "Symphonie", it is not just a name -- there is an incredible virtuosity in the way he composes his meals. Now there is indeniably a tendancy to show off both on and off the plate, and prices are violent even by the standards of the category. But there is no doubt that he is a major chef of today.
Haven't been to l'Arnsbourg and le Louis XV yet.
Georges Blanc, in Vonnas, is still my favorite. Our last four hour dinner was superb; we stayed at the hotel across the street as well. The set menus are quite reasonable compared to the Paris equivalents. Check out his web site.