Ushuaia, Argentina Restaurant Reviews by ALEDM

[aledm]

We stayed in Ushuaia, Argentina for 3 weeks in January '08 (in a cabana on the grounds of Los Cauquenes Resort & Spa, www.loscauquenesushuaia.com.ar) and ate out almost every night. Here are our restaurant reviews:

Ushuaia, Argentina Restaurant Recommendations by ALEDM
Exchange Rate US$1 = AP$3.15

1.Our Favorites

1.1 Gustino, inside of hotel Albatros, Maipu 505, esquina Lassere, Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, fono: (54-2901) ewo-003, e-mail: [e-mail] and [e-mail] web: www.gustino.com.ar This was a meal with great food and great service. We spent AP$100 because we later saw that the waiter forgot to charge us for our wine. We shared one beet root ravioli and one cordero/lamb in wine sauce. Both were excellent and there was plenty of food for the two of us. Our wine was AP$65 but we weren't charged for it. Rating 8/10

1.2 Komenk, Fueguino Hotel Patagonico, Gob. Deloqui 1282, Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, fono: (54-2901)424894, e-mail: [e-mail] , web: www.fueguinohotel.com The room is nice and the service was lovely. We were offered a champagne by the management and then we ordered a bottle of Chandon extra brut (AP$45). We spent a total of AP$195 and had a good paella marinera (AP$80) for 2 (that was way too much food for us), along with an unusual manzanas asadas AP$13. We were charged a servicio de mesa AP$6 and we had two desserts: one sensaciones chocolate (AP$24), and one sabor caprese (AP$18), plus 2 cafe (AP$4.5 x 2 = AP$9). Rating: 7.5/10

1.3 Maria Lola Resto, Deloqui 1048 (9410) Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, fono: [phone], web: www.marialolaresto.com.ar Gabriel was our waiter and was great. We had Langostino in garlic (AP$45), merluza negra (AP$74), grilled vegetables (AP$20) and a sopa de frutas AP$16 for dessert. All were very good. We also had 2 decafeinated coffees (AP$14) but no wine. The total was AP$169. This restaurant is a real find. Rating: 7.5/10

1.4 Tia Elvira. Av. Maipu 349, (9410) Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, tel: [phone], e-mail: [e-mail], web: www.tiaelvira.com. We spent AP$229, including a Don David Torretes at AP$65. The service and the merluza/hake (AP$68) was very good. For a starter we ordered cayos de vieyras/(the local name for scallops) (AP$52) which we liked. With the main we ordered 2 other dishes which were also good: chucrut (AP$10), and papas fritas (AP$10). The strudel manzana (AP$16) was well-prepared too. Rating: 7/10

1.5 Volver, Av Maipu 37, Ushuaia, tel [phone], e-mail: [e-mail] We had wonderful service and delicious food. The most we ever spent was AP$254 for 2 of us and usually it was much less. This restaurant is the only one with spider crabs swimming in a tank. Theoretically it would be possible to have the crab steamed at the time of dinner but at a price tag of US$100 for one, we didn’t try it. Otherwise, more affordable crab is always served cold (after having been frozen) and is not necessarily tasty. Our favorite main course was gigantic langostinos sauted in garlic. We also had good fresh oysters, acceptable fresh sea urchin and delicious merluza negra/hake. The dessert of panqueque manzana AP$20 was also enjoyable. The bill included 2 cubiertos x 2 = AP$4. We enjoyed the Familia Bianchi Sauvignon Blanc AP$70. Rating: 7.5/10

2. Restaurant We Would Recommend With A Caveat

2.1 Kaupé, Roca 470 (9410) Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, tel [phone], web: www.kaupe.com.ar This is considered one of the best restaurants in Argentina. We spent AP$321 and thought the food was excellent. It was creative and delicious. However, we thought that the woman serving (who was also “the front of the house” and may be related to the chef, Ernesto Vivian) was off-putting. She was brusque and just on the correct side of being rude. Nonetheless, the food was so good, we overlooked that and we planned to return to try the degustation menu. When we did, we didn’t stay—we walked out. Her greeting and seating was unacceptable and we knew we wouldn’t enjoy the meal. (The first time we went the detail of our bill was as follows: cubierto AP$6 x2= AP$12, Lagarde Viognier AP$48, agua x 2 = AP$8, vieyras (the local name for scallops) Lyonnaise AP$50, Merluza Negra Papillote AP$74, espinacas AP$20, papas natural AP$15, helado limo with salsa champage AP$22, marquise AP$20, 2 copa Rutini vin doux natural AP$20 x 2 = AP$40, 2 cafe Llly AP$6 x2 = AP$12). Rating: 7.5/10

3. Good Restaurants

3.1 Estancia Hamberton Ruta 33 J: and Downeast del las Estrellas 1861, (9410) Ushuaia Tel [phone], cel 15 605417 This is a big tourist destination to tour the estancia and to eat a parilla. We had a good lunch although service was slow. Rating: 6.5/10

3.2 La Morada del Aguila Restaurante, Cerro Castor, Ruta 3, KM 26 (9410), Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, fono: 54-2901) 499-302 ext 119, web: www.cerrocastor.com We had another Sunday afternoon parilla at this restaurant. It is a nicer space than Las Cotorras but isn’t as much fun. The meal was good here too and the price was the same, including Trapiche Roble Malbec (AP$45). Rating: 6.5/10

3.3 Las Cotorras, Ruta 3, KM 25, Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, tel [phone]. For parilla, this was our favorite. We had a fun Sunday afternoon eating too much meat. It cost AP$ 140 total, including a Benjamin Nieto Senetiner Malbec 2006 (AP$30). Rating: 7/10

3.4 Nautico, Maipu 1210, Ushuaia TEl [phone], e-mail: [e-mail], web: www.nauticorestaurante.com.ar, The food was good although we were the only diners. Our dinner was a reasonably priced AP$94. Rating: 6/10

3.5 Tolkeyen, del Tolkeyen 2145, inside the Tolkeyen Hotel, (9410) Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, tel [phone], e-mail: [e-mail] web: www.tolkeyenhotel.com The meal poorly served and the food was not interesting. We spent AP$129. We had a very, very good Navarra Corresas Coleccion Privada Chardonnay 2005 (AP$43), two entradas (for AP$6 and AP$4) and two okay fish (AP$22 for one and AP$30 for the trout). We ordered one dessert (AP$24). Rating: 5/10

4. Restaurants We Would Not Recommend

4.1 Chez Manu, Camino al Glaciar, Luis F. Martial 2135 –km 2 (9410), Ushuaia, (54-2901) 432-253, e-mail: [e-mail] web: www.chezmanuushuaia.com This is a one-starred restaurant in the YPF guidebook. The food was good but the service was so bad as to be dysfunctional. We spent AP$172 and had an ensalada de Pejerrey (AP$38), trucha fueguina (AP$64), agua (AP$6) and a Sauvignon Blanc (AP$64). Rating: 5.5/10

4.2 La Reve d'Orange, Los Acebos Ushuaia Hotel, Luis F. Martial 1911, Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, www.losacebos.com.ar The room was large and had huge orange lampshades. It wasn’t a dream room; it was just functional with an excellent view of Ushuaia’s harbor area. We were very disappointed in the food. We spent AP$135 and had brocchetas de pollo apanadas (AP$25), bondiola de cerdo con coquetas (AP$35) that was impossibly tough, vegetales asados (AP$16), mini strudel de frutos (AP$18), Trapiche Syrah 500cc (AP$30), and 2 cafe (AP$6). Rating: 5/10

4.3 Reina Mora del Hotel Los Cauquenes, Calle Reinamora 3462, Barrio Bahia Cauquén (9410) Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, Argenina, fono: (54-02901) 441-300, e-mail: [e-mail], web: www.loscauquenes.com This is a two-starred restaurant in the YPF guidebook. The menu had unusual dishes on it and we ordered dishes that we hadn’t seen on Patagonian menus before. The main was so tough that we sent it back. The chef came to talk to us and was very apologetic. He brought us another dish, as well as a gift of fresh spider crab natural (that was usually tasty). Although we were in Ushuaia for three weeks we never went back. Rating: 5.5/10

4.4 Tante Nina Restaurante, Av. Maipu 15 esquina Gdor. Godoy (9410) Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, tel [phone] The food wasn’t good but the place was packed with tourists. We spent AP$131. (The detail of the bill was 2 cubierto 2x 4 =AP$8), lasagna + sauce = AP$32, Abadejo/hake provenzal AP$36, Ensalada completa AP$25, and a Tapiche Torrontes AP$30). Rating: 4/5/10

5. For Pizza

5.1 El Turco Restaurante y Pizzeria, San Martin 1410, (9410) Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, tel: [phone] It is a very plain restaurant and the menu was predictable. We spent AP$64 for 1/4 chicken + 1 order of lasagne + wine. No rating.

5.2 Pizza & Pasta 137, San Martin 137, Ushuaia The room is pleasant enough but the menu is too limite. We spent AP$81 and had 375 cc bottle Santa Julia Malbec (AP$17), a beer called Beagle Roja x 2 = AP$16, an ensalada capresse AP$14, and a pizza champignones + anchoas AP$34). No rating.

6. Take Away

6.1 El Bambu Takeaway Pierdra Buena 276, Ushuaia, tel [phone] Hours: Monday - Friday 11-17 and 19:30 -22 (closed Saturday and Sunday). Very good vegetarian,
run by Taiwanese.

6.2 Frigorifico La Argentina, tel [phone] Carniseria We bought an excellent leg of lamb (which they butterflied for me) to cook at home.

6.3 La Mendocina, Pastor Lawrence 799 For fruit and vegetables.

6.4 Pesquera del Beagle, Av. Maipu 227, Tel 421-432 We found very nice fish to cook at home.

[armandia]

THanks for this great review of Ushuaia. I printed it and carried it around every night. However, we tried a few places that were not identified that I think our worth mentioning. (Also I personally find multiple posts informative).

First, we stayed at this small hotel called Tierra de Leyendas http://www.tierradeleyendas.com.ar/. THe owners Sebastian and Maria Paz are so welcoming. The hotel is incredibly charming, with Fuegian history littered around the hotel, along with pictures of the couple on their one year trip around the world. Both met when they worked at the Marriot in Buenos Aires but there is nothing chain like about this place. Sebastian is also the chef. His food is quite good (although slightly under salted). Recommended are the Merluza Negra (aka Chilean sea bass that is line caught here in the Beagle Channel), trout, and the herb encrusted lamb.

Other great places that we went to

1. Kaupe. Roca 470 (9410) Ushuaia, Tierra del Fuego, tel [phone], web: www.kaupe.com.ar I understand why ALDEM found hte woman upfront a bit brusque. She took our order and just seems to be very dry even to spanish speakers. Other than taking our order though she was not very present and the rest of the wait staff was incredibly attentive. Even the chef came to our table a few times nad helped us chose a wine ' a great Rutini merlot (although i was very scared to try the merlot as I hate the majority of california ones that I´ve had). The Centolla naturale (local king crab steamed with lemon on the side) was delicious and fresh. THe scallop ceviche was divine! To follow the centollo a la kaupe was like a delicious lobster bisque, and the merluza negra with black butter and capers melted in our mouth. My husband still had room for the crepes with dulce de leche and cognac which he finished and the Rutini Malbec grapa was fabulous end to this decadent meal.

2. Bodegon Fuegino 859 san martin http://www.tierradehumos.com/bodegon/ . THis place is great when you want a break from fancy food. The cazuelas and bocas - basically little bowls of usually fried or stewed foods similar to tapas - are great for large groups. You can pick as many dipping sauces as you´d like. We particularly liked the bunuelos de verduras (veggie fritters) with lemon sauce and the albondigas (meat balls) with portuguese sauce. The draft beer is also excellent. (Whiel the food in general is good here, the cannelonis are actually not cannelonis but crepes and I wouldn´t really recommend them as they are pretty heavy).

3. Almacen de Ramos Generales http://www.ramosgeneralesushuaia.com/. Great place for lunch or tea time (or just read a book). This place is truly charming. A former general store that has been converted into a cafe and patisserie by a franco-argentine couple, it is located right near the port and is a great place to warm up after a boat trip. The coffee is teh best in town and their hot chocolate looked decadent. The beer on tap is also good. The first time we ordered the smoked fish plate which includes plentiful pieces of carpaccio of merluza negra, smoked salmon, and mussels and calamari escaveche. It was excellent but very big and the two of us were a bit fished out by the end. THe merluza negra carpaccio though is worth trying at least. The second time we got their paninis. The bread is very good --although the best one by far is the chicken and tomato panini. Their side plates of meat are excellent.

4. La Estancia. ANother responder already wrote about this. The all you can eat was way too mcuh food for me but a good experience. THe lamb was very good particularly the costillas but the stars were really the morcilla and chorizo.

[aledm]

Yours is a great addition to our post; thanks!

[iceman7070]

Well.....

[gammaglam]

This is a great post -- we appreciated it.

Our comments as follows (my apologies for the lack of addresses -- most are on St Martin):

1. La Estancia on San Martin was fabulous -- we ate there 3 times -- very reasonable. Salads are nicely done, meat very good and the tomato sauce has a rich wine flavour. We did not do the all-you-can-eat although the carvery looked very interesting -- large chunks of meat.

2. El Bambu -- I was waylaid by the fact that this was run by Taiwanese -- didn't note the vegetarian part. My husband and I bought noodles (nice flavouring -- they don't have hot sauce) and some futomaki rolls (not bad but no soy sauce/wasabe). This was a nice change.

3. Pizza & Pasta 137 -- we enjoy a good thin crust pizza -- this was probably the worst pizza in a lifetime of pizza eating. I had the pineapple/ham combo (complete with marashino cherries) and my husband had the Calabrese (sausage was not tasty and the pizza lacked tomato sauce).

4. Tante Sara -- we went to one that looked cozy but the male waiters stood around, joking with each other so we just left. We were there at about 8pm on Friday night.

5. Tante Sara No. 2 -- this one is more modern -- nicely appointed --we had tea and coffee -- tea is a gourmet tea leaves kind of thing. The desserts were at best -- an attempt to make american style desserts (brownie tasted storebought, the lemon mouse had too much gelatin) -- however, the environment was nice

6. Lola Marie Resto -- great view. I had the mussels/ crab casserole. This was basically a seafood chowder. It was very good and I only wished I had not had the vegetable soup to start (fantastic). We enjoyed this but as noted above -- it's a bit pricey.

7. Ushuaia chocolates -- this is a cozy confiteria/sandwich joint with chocolates shaped like penguins in the window. Cozy for light snacks (we picked a bunch of chocolate pieces and had it with our coffee/tea).

[travisleroy]

Thank you for this excellent post. I see I will enjoy my stay in Ushuaia.